“I’m not the best gardener,” confesses Erdem Moralioglu. It’s an ironic admission for the Montreal-born, London-based fashion designer for whom florals are a recurring theme. (He is trying, though: He mentions that he just returned from Holland, where he bought some tulips.) Carnations, irises, poppies and, his favourite, anemones, have all figured at one time or another in his collections. And although flowers by their very nature seem fragile, Moralioglu is drawn to them because he feels they represent feminine strength. “They’re a force of nature,” he says. “They’re resilient, and they regrow.”
This appreciation for blooms was the starting point for his limited-edition makeup collaboration with Nars called “Strange Flowers.” To help him wrap his head around the concept for the collab, Moralioglu decided to divide it into the four seasons.
“It helped guide me in terms of thinking about the palette and about plants that grow at certain times of the year,” he says. Once the parameters of which colours worked with others were set, he started to play, ensuring that the collection had breadth as well as contrast. “My work has always been about the push and pull of the delicate and the bold—the idea of lightness and darkness.
See (and shop) the entire Erdem Nars collaboration:
Erdem Nars Collaboration
Erdem Strange Flowers Poison Rose Lip Powder Palette
($62, Nars Cosmetics)
Moralioglu is drawn to a “magnetic lip that you see from very far away.” It reminds him of his pale-skinned, blue-eyed mother, whose only cosmetic was red lipstick. “Whenever she wore it, it was like red on a white sheet of paper—very saturated,” he recalls. The Poison Rose Lip Powder Palette contains a balm with four shades that are applied on top for a vivid mouth.
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Erdem Nars Collaboration
Erdem Strange Flowers Night Garden Eyeshadow Palette
($62, Nars Cosmetics)
Erdem Nars Collaboration
Erdem Strange Flowers Fleur Fatale Eyeshadow Palette
($62, Nars Cosmetics)
The idea to include blotting paper came from memories of his twin sister and her friends using it in high school. “I loved how the paper felt and smelled—there was something so tactile about it,” recalls Moralioglu. The concept of it being “non-makeup” and a discreet tool also appealed. And with this being a summer collection, he felt it made sense. “Toronto gets very humid,” he says.
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Erdem Nars Collaboration
Erdem Strange Flowers Multi-Use Highlighting Pencil
($35, Nars Cosmetics)
For the six lipsticks, Moralioglu experimented with
transparency, opacity and what he calls “strange colours”—like the sheer orchid of “Larkspur,” the muted lavender of “Voodoo Lily” and the deep plum of “Wild Flower.” “Bloodflower,” with its bright cherry hue, is one of his favourites. “It’s truly the perfect red lipstick,” he says.
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Erdem Nars Collaboration
Erdem Strange Flowers Lipstick in Carnal Carnation
($35, Nars Cosmetics)
The matte-black packaging that Nars is known for has been replaced with a pale powdery blue—a customized shade that was created for the walls of Erdem’s London flagship in Mayfair. (It opened right around the time Moralioglu started working on the collaboration.)
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Erdem Nars Collaboration
Erdem Strange Flowers
(Erdem Strange Flowers Blush in Loves Me Not, Nars Cosmetics)
The post Florals and Family: The Influences That Shaped Erdem’s New Makeup Collab With Nars appeared first on FASHION Magazine.
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