London: Day four

By Leah Rumack

Shown: Gareth Pugh Fall 2008. Photography by Peter Stigter.

Bora AksuLyrics for the opening track intoned:  “London hates you,” but Bora, pet, I really don’t think that’s true. The fashion pack seemed quite pleased, thank you very much, and no wonder.

It was both a little naughty and a little nice from this designer known for his skill with embellishment, and all things beautiful. In the naughty column: Red Riding Hood gone terribly wrong in a hooded black chiffon tie-on cape edged in what looked like plastic, black jewelled tights and horse bridle-like leather chest/obi pieces worn over flimsy frocks.  In the nice department: short, short dresses with more ruffles and frills than you could shake an entire fabric store at-many in sweet shades of dusty pink, lavender, khaki and grey, and sometimes all at once.

Gareth Pugh
Sometimes people say London fashion is just a little too “awty” for most people’s tastes.  Pugh doesn’t agree, or, frankly, doesn’t give a toss. From the moment Coco Rocha came out in a dress made of zippers looking like she’d escaped from a warrior craft on Tron, you knew this wasn’t going to be an easy ride. Shoulders were made comic-book huge in this almost-all-black collection by way of stiff capes, shaggy goat-fur epaulets on a coat or pointy leather puffed sleeves that looked like a Frank Gehry building writ large. Models wore blue lipstick and murderous black buckled heels. I’m scared…please don’t hurt me Gareth! See photos from this show.

Giles Volume is not dead, ladies, at least not in London. Not when Giles opens his show with dresses and tops with puffy coat fronts (think Canada Goose, but in satin and gorgeous jewel tones) sectioned off with zippers. There was more slashing of eveningwear, this time on slinky satin column dresses, and knits so delicate and cobwebby they looked like they might fall down in a dead faint. More black lips! Are you ready?

The girls on the street are wearing: Heart-shaped sunglasses.

All the PR girls are wearing: Short short poufy a-line skirts with opaque tights, prim sweaters and chunky heels.

God I wish I had: My own set of antlers like Agyness Deyn wore at the House of Holland show.

London style is making me: Crazed. I bought a pair of bright green jeans today. It’s not my fault. It’s London!

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