London: September 15
By Malena Harbers
In a toast to my adopted homeland, I’m writing my first London Fashion Week blog with a cup of English Breakfast tea in hand. After an exhausting first day running from South to North to Central London, I’m ready to tuck in with or without the traditional crumpet and jam.
The week kicked off with an uncommonly blue sky, bright sun and thus a sea of Ray-Ban Wayfarers outside a 19th century neo-classical church in the posh Marylebone district, the venue for the one-half Canadian design duo Poltock & Walsh. The collection was all sheer blouses and gorgeous chiffon shifts and shirt dresses adorned in ruffles and flowers, but not in a tacky ’80s prom dress way. Dark graphic prints, shimmery grey skinny pants, and black, black and more black lent an androgynous vibe to the otherwise über-girly collection. The best piece was the gold ruffled jumpsuit—half superhero, half disco queen, all summer-patio-party-spritzer-in-hand cool.
Tucked on a quiet, inconspicuous rode minutes from London’s bustling Victoria train station, was the even more lively and much-buzzed about Temperley London show, which finally came home to London after many seasons in New York. It was hands down the best collection yet (does that count if I’ve only seen three shows?). Amongst the fabulous draped dresses all I remember were the models rocked out in studs, stars and leather belts. Oh, and the back of London It girl, Alice Dellal’s half-shaved head seated in front of me, not to mention Alice Temperley’s ever-growing fan base seated front row centre—Mischa Barton, Rosamund Pike, Jacquetta Wheeler and Bungalow 8’s Amy Sacco—all fans of her romantic feminine fashions. But today, the romance queen proved that tough chic does not have to be limited to fall/winter collections. A colour palette of black, white, and cream injected with a splash of vibrant colour—I’m loving the pomegranate pink knit jumpsuit—and purple animal print rocked the runway. And the contrasts didn’t stop there: Models’ slicked back, futuristic chignons were topped by a throwback to the 1920s cloche hat, decked out in studs of course. She paired glossy sheath dresses adorned in sparkles and arm ruffles and elegant Victorian-era white lace with jodhpur-style pants, leather wristbands and a fabulous studded star belt that cinched waists in both black and white leather. I’m not quite sure how, as separates, all the black studs would translate come spring, but paired with her one-shoulder designs and fabulous gladiator-style stilettos and flats (albeit equally as studded as the belts and hats) it would help to channel that spring/summer feel. Star items to watch for: The Xena: Warrior Princess studded mini sheath dress and Greek goddess-like black and cream jumpsuits.
Todd Lynn: A little bit 1940s and a little bit rock and roll; the king of fine tailoring did not disappoint. There were perfectly structured jackets aplenty, like the pleated-back jackets and paneled biker numbers. The show was titled ‘Devour the Divine’ which played with a bit of hard-edge. Enter grey trouser suits, black leather minis, shiny gunmetal dresses and even a sheer, black hood thrown in for good measure. This may sound all a little too tough for spring but a lineup of pretty lacquered wrap dresses in muted raspberry and bright pink; sheer blouses; flowing, wide-leg trousers and simple grey and black suede strappy Louboutins softened the collection. But above all, the showstopper was the feathered, tri-shade cocktail dress in white, grey and black. Here’s to hoping your summer party invites start rolling in.
Day one theme: Black is back for spring and summer and the multi-tasking jumpsuit is a city and poolside must.
My dream item of the day: Charlotte Olympia’s studded ankle-wrapping stiletto’s stomping the Temperley catwalks.
The people at the shows are wearing: Ray-Ban Wayfarers in deep purple and black, pleather leggings and mile-high shoe boots.
Thank god: I had sensibly decided to wear flats on day one. Eight hours, 400,000 steps (at a minimum), and four queues later my pain-free tootsies erased any shoe envy I was having.
Most whimsical audience accessory sighting: Two-straw-hat headed fashionistas. One with a hole cut out in the top
Best beauty trend: Top makeup artist Val Garland’s (she’s worked with everyone from Linda Evangelista to a long time collaboration with fellow Brit Alexander McQueen) sweetly futuristic pale pink/violet lips and clashing severe, thin-penciled dark brows at Todd Lynn.
Shown Todd Lynn Spring 2009. Photography by Anthony Devlin/Keystone Press Agency
TEMPERLEY LONDON | TODD LYNN
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