London: September 16
By Malena Harbers
The best part of day two was at 8:30 p.m. when a Beatle sang in my ear. Now I know Sir Paul McCartney doesn’t normally fit on a fashion blog but when one of the world’s most legendary musicians is standing right beside you at his daughter’s charity auction that’s something to write about!
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The party, where my Beatle stood, was the 30 Days of Fashion and Beauty gala. It took place at the grandiose Natural History Museum in South Kensington (also home to the Prince William and Harry’s fave hot nightspot, Boujis) and was fashion world extravagance at its best. The Möet flowed endlessly, a live orchestra covered hits from Kylie Minogue, Amy Winehouse and the Eurythmics and there was no shortage of star attendees: Elle Macpherson, Georgia Jagger and entourage, Laura Bailey, Erin O’Connor and Jasmine Guinness all teetered through the crowd in their Louboutins and designer duds. The intimate photographs by Mary McCartney of British heavyweights, models and stars were auctioned off to the champagne-sipping, canapé-munching crowd (the courgette gratin on offer was a special Linda McCartney recipe) with proceeds going to the Macmillen Cancer Support. Kate Hudson also made an appearance with her BFF of the night Stella McCartney, who was hot off the buzz from the launch of her spring Adidas collection where members of the Olympics team Britain showed off the feminine yet functional workout wear, all sheer fabrics, precise detailing and splashes of neon trim.
Now while taking a black cab in London is never a good idea unless you’re keen to empty your bank account, a day spent running around on public transport, show-watching and auction-gawking meant my patent, chunky-heeled Miu Miu shoe boots (sadly last season’s) were becoming my enemy. So, gathering three other fashion editors to split the monstrous tab, we piled into a black cab to make our way to the Swarovski Rocks Giles After-Party where dj’s spun electro-clash beats and Agyness Deyn with boyfriend Albert Hammond Jr. of the Strokes in tow, sipped Tanquerey cocktails into the wee hours of the night.
And on to the fashions……
Eley Kishimoto: This design duo’s CV reads like a fashion wish list, having previously worked with Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander and debuting last season as the creative directors for Cacharel. And their spring summer collection seemed to take elements of each one of these designers as inspiration. Befitting the collection to come, a soundtrack of children laughing and playing introduced this nursery rhyme-themed collection. To the beat of a funkified “Ring Around the Rosie” models dressed as paper dolls strolled up and down the catwalk. Pretty sundresses and ruffle-tiered frocks, in candy-floss colours and muted, gold-flecked pastels were followed by floral prints and matching colour-blocked stockings. A maroon and yellow military-style jacket paired with a lime green mini flowed into gecko prints and even black skirts and dresses, proving black really is big for spring. Oversized clutches, Peter Pan collars and princess coats were aplenty and a quirky hat fetish ruled the runway. Everything from floppy striped sunhats to bright red canvas bowlers, to plastic visors were on show and there was even a white motorcycle helmet with black zigzag print to finish.
Louise Goldin (shown): Is it just me or is there a Star Trek theme buzzing about in the fashion world? (See visor comment below) Goldin’s futuristic tunics, bodysuits, jumpsuits and cobweb-inspired half leggings were very 2020. Known for her knitwear prowess, Goldin’s collection was a fabulous blend of knit patterns, screen prints, and sheer and solid fabric combos in a pastel palette, building from white and cream to pale blue and lilac. The cropped, structured jackets and conical bra tops were combined with skirts layered over leggings or skinny pants. But while her body-con jumpsuits and leotards, sprinkled in Swarovski crystals, looked fabulous on the models, unless you’re naturally a size zero or have the eating habits of fellow Brit, Victoria Beckham, it’s hard to imagine the average woman feeling comfortable stepping out in a white, body-skimming onesie.
Christopher Kane: Once again Mr. Kane was blocking out international press from his show—unless you’re American Vogue—but we heard his ode to the prehistoric (The Flintstones and Planet of the Apes were his inspiration), translated as cashmeres, gorilla prints, scale-like geometric bell skirts and truly wearable cotton dresses, secured his place as one of the UK’s most innovative young designers.
Day two theme: Geometric shapes, structured jackets and dresses and bit of bling—Swarovski crystals ruled the runways and the after parties.
My dream item of the day: Rupert Sanderson’s patent, pastel shoe boots at Louise Goldin.
The girls at the shows are wearing: Scarves tied into floppy bows as headbands and anything tartan: skirts, skinny trousers and cropped vests.
Thank god: I scored a seat in the BFC tent’s media lounge. It was prime real estate for editor watching—both British Vogue’s Alexandra Schulman and the Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander were spotted there in between shows.
Most whimsical audience accessory sighting: Opaque black visor shades. Think Star Trek: The Next Generation’s Lieutenant Geordi LaForge.
Best beauty trend: It’s all about nude this season. Val Garland rocked the look again at Louise Goldin with mermaid blue lids, glowing complexions, pale lips and a strong brow.
Shown: Louise Goldin Spring 2009. Anthony Devlin/Keystone Press Agency
LOUISE GOLDIN | ELEY KISHIMOTO | CHRISTOPHER KANE
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