London: September 17
By Malena Harbers
Day three, and the skies are still looking friendly. That should be some kind of rain record for this city, no? Word on the street says it’s going to last all week. Hurray! That means bare legs, minis and towering stilettos will stay out in full force for the rest of Fashion Week.
In fact, according to the fashion lords, next spring should find the weather blue-skied and sunny all season long, at least judging by their love affair with the hat. What started in New York at Marc Jacobs has jumped the pond, and a full-on hat affair has taken over the London catwalks with Temperley London’s oversized cloche hats, Jaeger London’s flower-trimmed fedoras, Luella’s net veils and Nicole Farhi’s straw hats. (I suppose it makes perfect sense, since London is the home of the milliner. Isabella Blow and Royal Ascot come to mind immediately, and what other country has an association—the British Hat Guild—to promote the hat industry?) There’s even an exhibit featuring the history of the hat, scheduled for next February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum.
And to top it all off (pun intended), I spotted another straw hat today (that’s three now this week if any of you are counting with me). But Ms. Farhi’s versions still take the crown.
Basso & Brooke There was no question what inspired these print masters this season. Japanimation unfolded down the runways in bold prints subtly embellished with Swarovski crystals, embroidery and beading. There were no pastels here, and even solid black made an appearance in the form of skinny cropped trousers, a miniskirt and a satin pin-tucked gown. But while the patterns referenced an ancient world, Kimono-style dresses, skinny pants, silk tops and jackets were secured with giant obi belts, creating a simple hourglass shape and bringing the collection into the 21st century. Fitted, floor-length dresses finished the show along with my favourite piece: a gorgeously draped, retro, deep-V solid purple jumpsuit, which looked like it was made from pipe cleaner, anchored by a rainbow obi belt, of course. What gave the show its slight cartoon edge were the giant hairpins and Kirby grips (created by milliner Stephen Jones, who also created Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2009 hats) that topped the models’ squared-off updos.
Everyone is buzzing about: Fashion label Kaviar Gauche. Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler are one of Berlin’s most avant-garde design teams. The label has already been picked up by boutique department store Liberty here in London and has recently launched in New York. Rumoured fans Brittany Murphy and Charlize Theron are probably drawn to their unique mix of German utilitarian, minimalist design and ultraluxe materials, which translates into edgy but super-feminine and wearable separates. Let’s hope the girls find their way to Canada soon!
Day three theme: Oversized bows. Giant hairbows at Luella evoked prim and proper, and Basso & Brooke’s oversized bowed-obi belts verged on cartoonish.
My dream item of the day: The quirky polka-dot Levi’s jeans collab from House of Holland.
The girls at the shows were wearing: Mulberry’s trompe l’oeil cotton Maggie tote, given out at the British Fashion Council’s head tent, to cart invites, press kits and a change of shoes around town (so that’s how these girls survive the day in their towering Christian Louboutin Roditas!).
Thank god: I had two bottles of water, a full pack of Trident Tropical Twist gum and this week’s Grazia magazine (London’s much-loved weekly glossy rag) with a 12-page shoe special in my hold-all tote, because the Basso & Brooke security guards, wearing Entourage-engraved name plates, held us in line for 40 minutes before even starting to seat the show.
Most whimsical audience accessory sighting: Today’s was my favourite: A Kermit the Frog–coloured, shoulder-length wig with a full fringe and two hair horns held up by one matching green scrunchie and a fluorescent pink one.
Best beauty trend: Sun-kissed girls rocking the House of Holland catwalk. While my beauty editor background has transformed me from sun worshipper to shade seeker, a hint of summer skin is a welcome respite from the nude and somewhat pale complexions of the previous day’s shows.
Another surprising beauty trend for summer is full-on black liner. Top L’Oréal makeup artist James Kaliardos rimmed top and bottom lids in thin black liner. Pale nude skin and a touch of white sheen in the inner corners of the eyes lightened up the look.
Shown: Basso & Brooke Spring 2009. Anthony Devlin/Keystone Press Agency
BASSO & BROOKE
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