London: September 18
By Malena Harbers
Caught up in a delayed tube line, a maddeningly late bus and typically congested Oxford Street traffic to start, I found myself on a foreign block in Bloomsbury dashing down cobblestone roads in croc platform heels, frantically searching for “The Dairy,” site of Erdem’s Spring 2009 show.
Was it my obviously throbbing feet, my flushed cheeks or my look of sheer desperation? Whatever reason the PR girl took pity, it worked. She kindly snuck me in through the large wooden doors just as the music began.
And boy was the hustle worth it! Nymph-like models floated down the runways in French lace, tiers of ruffles, frills and embroidery. This was sheer craftsmanship at its best. A dream-like palette of watery pastels and blurred floral prints were punctuated by shots of tangerine or lime green here and there. Feminine capes, scarves and 3/4-length skinny pants in pale lilac, pink and white rounded out the superb collection of pretty summer dresses.
It’s day four now, and I can confidently say that this collection, from Montreal-born designer Erdem Moralioglu (we bonded over our mutual schooling at Ryerson University in Toronto), was by far my favourite. Forget Vera Wang; if I were getting married (big if here), Erdem’s floor-length gown with the Victorian collar and beige floral pattern would be the one. In fact, even one of his engaged PR girls had her eye on a piece for her upcoming nuptials.
And the venue—a stark white room with oversized, round hanging lamps and a classical pianist playing in the centre of a square catwalk—set the enchanting mood entirely. “I was inspired by a 1970s performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream directed by Peter Brooks,” explained Erdem, when I met him backstage post-show to congratulate him on his stunning collection. “The set was minimalist, and all the emphasis was on the costumes because they were so decadent. It looked like a painting, and I liked how the colours didn’t make sense together, like the pairing of lime green and coral.”
Dressed in jeans, white canvas sneakers and a simple red-and-white striped tee, he explained how his floral prints are digitally created on a “very old Mac.” His Canadian passport may be expired, but this is one designer who is doing our country proud.
Leaving the backstage area, I spotted my favourite piece of the show hanging on a rack by the door. It’s all tiered ice-blue lace with a tangerine ribbon at the neck and waist and woven through the upper bodice. So very ethereal! If only I could grow three inches and lose a dress size to walk his Fall 2009 catwalk—Erdem gives his models a piece from his last season collection as a thank you. How generous!
The icing on the Erdem-sized cake was his intimate after-party. Devotees, friends and editors mingled and shimmied to the laid-back beats in the ground-floor Crimson Bar of the Soho Hotel. Decked out with column-climbing vine, sparkling butterfly and white feathered bird props (which all ended up in partiers’ hair), a tiered cupcake platter and bunches of lavender set atop the mirrored tables surrounded by plush, stuffed armchairs, the show’s ethereal theme continued, making for a lovely end to a long day.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label: Mischa Barton, Pamela Anderson, Dita Von Teese and model Daisy Lowe (who walked the runway) all came out to pay tribute to the Queen of British Eccentricity. The designer’s main show is still in Paris, but this diffusion line sees her more subtle creations on the catwalk. Anglomania reigned in stripes, prints and plaids, and tailored jackets, tea dresses and baggy hems were all classic Westwood. Long live the Queen.
My dream item of the day: The gorgeous satin ribbon wrap heels by Georgina Goodman at Erdem.
The girls at the shows are wearing: Rolled-up trousers to create their own peg-leg pant shape. Worn with ankle-strap heels, of course.
Thank god: I made it to the show!
Most whimsical audience accessory sighting: Shiny, gold leopard-print leggings with high-top Dr. Martens. It sounds strange, but the pairing is actually a common occurrence in this city.
Best beauty trend: Braids and fishtails. Nothing says carefree summer days like a playful chunky braid.
Shown: Erdem Spring 2009. Anthony Devlin/Keystone Press Agency
ERDEM
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