London: September 19
By Malena Harbers
I write this from the back of the number 70 bus, my trusted shuttle service this week for the daily back-and-forth from my West End flat to London Fashion Week’s HQ in South Kensington. It’s the last day of shows today, three to go and counting!
Osman Yousefzada: On the most beautiful day yet in London—not a cloud in the blue sky—Yousefzada’s choice of venue could not have been better. Staged at the Crystal Palace, essentially a temporary greenhouse set up in the midst of Hyde Park along the Serpentine River, editors and buyers were content to bask pre-show in the sunlight beside the river (behind dark designer shades of course). The rich, vibrant colour palette of the collection, albeit injected with what seems to be next season’s requisite black, served to uplift the mood even more. Fitted white dresses, neoprene jackets, blouses and sheer tops with two circular gold motifs were the opening line-up. What followed was a gorgeous parade of short jersey dresses and pencil skirts; fitted dresses with front and back draped paneling; midriff-baring boxy jackets, and cropped pants all in solid hues of bright cobalt blue, coral and pink. Citing his trip to Japan as his inspiration, Yousefzada sent models out in samurai straw hats overtop chiffon head wraps. Volume was key too: The sheer oversized shirts with copper prints were my favourite. Overall it was a very “clean” collection and almost too simple. Strange then, that his celebrity fans include one über-edgy Ms. Kate Moss and the not-so-simple Ms. Mary-Kate Olsen.
Ashish: Rah-rah America! If that’s what Ashish Gupta was going for with this collection then he struck it on the nail. Camouflage military coats, parkas and sequined dresses, plaid shirts, black baseball caps sporting a giant gold A, jeans with dice prints and cowboy-like denim vests and coats crawling with tacky buttons (think Jennifer Aniston’s “flair” buttons in Office Space), were all an over-exaggeration of American themes. And all were coupled with gold-winged black boots.
What Gupta did do absolutely beautifully was ingeniously pair cocktail classy with laid-back cool: Grey sweatpants with black fringe down both legs were paired with a sequined black top; a slinky, sequined, long black coatdress was cinched with a plain, black worn-leather belt; and a badge-heavy military coat topped a gold-sequined dress. I wasn’t a fan of the random eye-print jeans in the middle of the collection, but his two white-sequined playing card shirtdresses are on my must-have list. The Queen of Hearts was my hands-down favourite.
Modernist: Oddly enough, the Modernist boys had their show on the second floor of the Oxford Street Mango store. Everyone I asked was as clueless as me. Do I sense an upcoming collabo?
Venue mystery aside, Modernist is normally known for its not-so-run-of-the-mill designs and for being big on contrast. But this season’s collection was all hand-embroidered, soft, romantic decadence. Shades of purple dominated the runway along with rose, white and black in sheer blouses with Baroque-swirl appliqués. Full-length gloves, pencil skirts, skinny pants and form-fitting dresses came out in lace, satin and silk. There was a strong emphasis on the waist as petal-shaped skirts and strategic folds added volume and the finale piece, a fitted dress with the collection’s signature appliqué rolled out with deep pockets that ballooned from the hips, over-exaggerated the feminine silhouette. It was overall very pretty but to be honest, nothing exceptionally unique from this duo –except for the sporadic white netting that covered models’ faces.
While a girl can never really have enough fashion in her life, I’m ready to integrate back into the real world. But what an experience this week has been. Can’t wait to see what’s in store next season!
Day five theme: Androgyny. Both the slicked hair, pantsuit and brogues combination at Osman Yousefzada and the plaid shirts, baseball caps and oversized men’s military coats at Ashish served to blur the gender line.
My dream item of the day: Not really a dream item –but I loved the chic white head wraps the models donned at Osman.
The girls at the shows were wearing: Statement necklaces and solid grey tights under skirts, dresses and shorts.
Thank god: I met London Times fashion journalist Nicola Copping, who found me on Kensington Road in a navigational panic and kindly steered me through Hyde Park to the Osman venue by the Serpentine. I would not have made it otherwise (I know it seems that narrowly-catching shows has been a theme these past few days but you try finding your way, punctually, in of the world’s biggest cities!)
Most whimsical audience accessory sighting: A Minnie Mouse-inspired bow headband with matching sequined bowtie and fluffy grey vest to match.
Best beauty trend: Bright tangeriney-coral lips at Osman. How simply spring!
Shown: Osman Yousefzada Spring 2009. Photography by Peter Stigter
OSMAN YOUSEFZADA | ASHISH
The post London: September 19 appeared first on FASHION Magazine.