MFW diary: Milan at its best at Dolce & Gabbana, Aquilano Rimondi, Versus and Salvatore Ferragamo
Dolce & Gabbana is about to begin. This is one show I never mind waiting for. And why would I? The seats in the Metropol theatre are cushy-comfy and actually have backs (YES!) There’s plenty to keep you entertained⎯from the waiter plying you with pizza and red wine at your seat, to the video scenes of backstage primping, people arriving, and front-row eds gossiping in their seats that is looped and playing overhead. Any moment, the theatre will go dark and like clockwork, my favourite, “Cavalleria Rusticana” will swell on the sound system and, from what I can see from the backstage video, fall will be another colossal hit for this dynamic duo. So far, from the monitor above me, I spy enormous star earrings, lace, and glitter galore! Sequins mix with fur and there’s a gender-bending mix of masculine/feminine… feels like classic Dolce to me!
And we’re off! Arizona and Abbey certainly make stunning boys, sideburns, sequin porkpie hats and all. Fall’s glitter girls bedazzle in seductive body-con lace, swirling floor length chiffon and gem encrusted shifts. A musical note print here, a polka dot or star print there, while androgynous boys shine on in a mix of brocade suits, skinny sequin pants, leopard oxfords and classic mens haberdashery. Just like the song on the sound system says: Dolce and Gabbana should be dancing in the streets!
With one more day of shows to go, its glittery gold pailettes, sparkly silver sequins, shimmering lurex and lamé that make Milan shine brighter than ever this season! Embellishment reigns as the biggest message of the week (followed closely by fantastic fur). The best collections have found a way to mix a touch of embellishment with clean modern proportions and new cocooning volumes. Such was the case with Aquilano Rimondi, where Swarovski crystals, panne velvet, and jacquard all shared the spotlight with linear Mondrian-inspired architectural shapes. Note: the new wrist length glove that also showed up at Prada earlier this week.
Purple and emerald lurex, in geometric patterns on short sheath dresses, found their way into Christopher Kane and Donatella Versace‘s collection for Versus as well, along with corsetry in tough black leather and banker greys. Salvatore Ferragamo started with classic power dressing, playing with fur, plenty of pinstripes, Prince of Wales checks and giant hounds tooth patterns on coats, dresses, pumps and bags. But like most of the Italian collections, the standout piece was jewel-encrusted: a divine black lace, floor length, full skirted shirt dress. Break out the bedazzler!
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