Milan Fashion Week Fall 2019: The Top Trends, Themes & Fashion Moods

Anna Molinari’s sweeping chiffon dresses epitomize retro, ethereal elegance.

Paul Surridge’s gorgeous billowing cocktail dress was refined and graceful.

Dolce & Gabbana’s show was themed around a return to elegance. Backstage Steffano Gabbana told the Guardian that he would like to “turn the page” and teach the new generation about timeless elegance. “I don’t know if it’s wrong or good but this is our point of view … fashion is the mirror of the times [reflecting] what is outside – sometimes we get it right, sometimes not.”

At Salvatore Ferragamo, Paul Andrew’s daywear pieces were elegantly understated with a stylish hint of sensuality.

Karl Lagerfeld’s last collection for Fendi was modern, glamourous and refined.

Elegance came with a seductive, tailored twist at Ermanno Scervino.

Lucie and Luke Meier created thoughtful, sensual silhouettes that remain timelessly elegant.

Agnona’s creative director Simon Holloway excels at discreet relaxed elegance.

Daniele Calcaterra’s take on elegance was abstract and monastic.

At Ujoh, designer Mitsuru Nishizaki mastered a stylized, kimono-like breezy elegance.

Alberto Zambelli’s draped and genteel aesthetic was sensual and feminine.

This season it was about romance and fear for Miuccia Prada. “In the sense that the two forces I feel at the moment are fear and danger, but at the same time romance is the solution. So these are pieces of love stories, introducing good in a world that has a lot of bad,” she told reporters in a scrum after the show.

Romance with a punkish protective twist was also seen at Act N1.

Francesco Risso’s Marni woman was wrestling with giving into guilty pleasures. Risso called it a “neuroerotik” duality that came with an unexpected kinky twist.

There were plenty of sensual, softer offerings at Daniel Lee’s runway debut for Bottega Veneta, but this look tapped into a collective yearning for protective gear in dangerous times.

Protection was also at the heart of the collection Simone Rocha created for Moncler. She said she imagined these were clothes that Girl Guides might wear to protect themselves from nature.

The Gucci show, which took place in a mirrored dome lit by pulsating strobes of light, was inspired by views on totalitarianism expressed by philosopher Hannah Arendt. Alessandro Michele was also inspired by Arendt’s take on masks, which she felt people wore for protection and deception.

Marco de Vincenzo brought his own seductively twisted take on femininity in complicated times.

Alexandra Moura’s collection was quirky with a slightly menacing sensibility inspired by fantastical beasts and monsters.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua of N21 said he was inspired by Brian De Palma’s 1980 film Dressed to Kill. He created a noirish take on sexuality where the woman was in charge.

Donatella Versace’s 90s punk-like collection was meant to challenge our fascination with the perfection-obsessed Instagram worlds we create. In press interviews she made the cultural declaration that “imperfection was the new perfection.”

Jeremy Scott’s Moschino game show was seen by some as ironic commentary on society’s fixation with possessions and wealth.

After Nancy Pelosi wore a Max Mara red jacket to meet with Donald Trump to discuss funding for the border wall, it reinforced the power and allure of power dressing. Max Mara’s offerings for fall are similarly understated and confidence-inducing.

The power suit at Salvatore Ferragamo was earthy, tailored and exquisitely made.

Giorgio Armani’s Rhapsody in Blue collection brought an unexpected twist to classic suiting with an elongated jodhpur leg.

Anteprima added a high-waisted feminine touch to a classic masculine silhouette.

Marni’s woman means business: classic tailoring yet edgy and modern.

Nothing says “don’t mess with me” more than this leather suit from Scervino.

Annakiki contrasted a classic shape with playfully bulbous sleeves that added a bold and witty touch.

At Jil Sander, suiting options were oversized and softer, but still powerfully chic.

Moura paired an innocent sensibility prairie girl skirt with a reserved and somber jacket.

With the exception of the spiked belting, this silver suit was an example of a sharper, more pared-back direction at Gucci.

Elisabetta Franchi brought a 60s-meets-streetstyle twist to her modern mini suiting.

At MSGM, the sensibility was an artsy boy-meets-girl suiting that was playful and confident.

At Dolce & Gabbana suiting was retro, stylish & chic.

Donatella Versace entered the time machine and dialled it back to 1994 when Versace transformed the safety pin into a stylish fashion staple. It’s back and so too is Stephanie Seymour, the 90s supermodel who closed the grungy lux inspired show.

Canada’s own iconic Liisa Winkler returned to the runway to wear this stunning cashmere robe coat from Salvatore Ferragamo.

Salvatore Ferragamo’s creative director Paul Andrew was inspired by a shoe designed in 1968 by Fiamma Ferragama.

Angela Missoni dove back into the mid 70s to ensure the collection had the same linear silhouette paired with new interpretations of the timeless knits associated with the house.

The shirt collars at Fendi were reminiscent of the style worn by Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away days before the show. He had been with the house since 1965.

The boho-artist has long inspired the aristocratic-posh look at Etro. She returned this season with a tighter silhouette but the same exotic vibe.

Of the 127 looks at Dolce & Gabbana, the ones inspired by avant-garde artists brought a fresh dimension to their work.

Chinese designer Angel Chen’s fall 2019 was inspired by ancient nomadic shepherds based in the Sichuan region called the Qiang people.

The clavicle-baring necklines at Bottega Veneta were inspired by 16th century portraiture.

Nicola Brognano was imagining a modern day Marie Antoinette when she designed this collection.

Paul Surridge took the Roberto Cavalli classic tiger print and transformed it into an abstract pattern that was modern and unexpected.

Shalom Harlow sports the belt bag at Versace.

Maryling’s take on this season’s functional and fashionable belt bag.

Fanny pack fantasies at Iceberg.

Etsy meets mountain climber-chic at Gilberto Calzolari.

A fun, OTT street-style take on the fanny pack from GCDS.

Perhaps the chicest take on the belt bag this season from Fendi.

A two-toned classic take from Elisabetta Franchi.

A dangling twist from Cividini.

Don’t-mess-with-me perfection from Cavalli.

Fashion mirage at Anteprima for those who want something a little more stealth.

The first of three honourable mentions for free-floating bag options. This necklace bag from Beatrice is cute and chic.

It’s not a belt bag… but this front-loading bag from Max Mara is envy-inducing.

This duel scarf non-belt bag from Max Mara is stylish and oh so practical.

Fluid lines are tweaked and tightened at Missoni.

A street-style take on high-waisted pants at Marios.

Corseted femininity at Kisada.

Game of Thrones belt vibe at Etro.

A campy take at Burani.

A wide-belted artful wrap from Arbesser.