Montreal Fashion Week: Sailor girls at Eve Gravel, noisy dresses at Helmer, and more

By Ashley Joseph

Montreal Fashion Week opened with an off-site event at MFW veteran Marie Saint Pierre’s St-Henri studio, where editors, bloggers, photogs and fans filed in for a behind-the-scenes look at where the magic happens. The ever so classic collection, punctuated by Saint Pierre’s signature ruffled and crinkled fabrics, was presented showroom-style as seamstresses continued to work in the back room.

Next, the crowds shuffled to restaurant-turned-runway Vallier to take in Eve Gravel. Buyers from across the globe sat front row to take in Gravel’s girlie looks (Galeries Lafayette’s Berlin rep happened to be perched next to me), which echoed with a retro nautical aesthetic that was punctuated by pretty florals.

The nautical theme continued at David Dixon Studio where the Toronto-based designer and his brand new diffusion line received a warm welcome at Bonsecours Market, MFW’s home sweet home. Dixon’s South of France-inspired show closed with three floor-skimming gowns, sure to grace a few red carpets this year.

Mixing things up, Muse par Christian Chenail seemed to borrow a little something from every decade: a ’60s cropped jacket, big ’70s hair, ’80s cobalt eyeshadow and ’90s tie-dye prints–not to mention a white A-line dress that took a page directly from 1955’s The Seven Year Itch.

If anyone was feeling lethargic by 8:30 pm, Helmer certainly shook them out of it. Virtually covered in glass embellishments, Joseph Helmer’s clothes made as much noise sonically as they did visually. The designer kept his soundtrack high culture, closing the show with an orchestral rendition of “Bad Romance.”

The night ended on a high note with creative variations on classic menswear pieces from Dimitri Chris. Models stomped the runway in lavender pinstripe suits, high-waisted dress pants and one surprisingly stylish oxford muscle tee. But wear with caution–if your guns don’t resemble David Beckham’s, this look probably won’t work for you.

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