NYFW diary: A flurry of Suno, Jason Wu, Doo.Ri, Costello Tagliapietra, and whizzing ambulances

After a backstage emergency that had ambulances whizzing to the scene (talk about added drama), the Suno show at Milk Studios got underway almost an hour after its scheduled 8 p.m. time slot last night, but the duo’s loyal followers didn’t seem to mind, packing the studio to the rafters. Suno is known for their far-and-away inspirations, and while they had plenty of Rajasthani prints and Asian detailing, the collection on the whole was decidedly more June Cleaver than jet setter, with plenty of peplums, florals, and plaid apron-style smocks paired ironically with menswear-inspired dress shirts. And speaking of peplums, they’re everywhere!

The biggest showing however was at Jason Wu, where retro detailing was added to jackets, tops, and dresses, oh my! Also trending is the anorak, shown at Peter Som in khaki fabrications and parachute material at Doo.Ri. The sporty staple even made an appearance at Wu’s retro ladylike collection, alongside sequin collars, crystal fringing, and moody black and white florals à la fall’s Lanvin collection. And on the ladylike train, those suspender-clad lumberjack teddy bears from Costello Tagliapietra wrapped their ladies in lots of calf-grazing, body-skimming silks of muted floral and forest prints made playful by vibrant pops of turquoise. And that, folks, is a wrap for day one.

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