Our Backstage Beauty Roundup From Toronto Fashion Week
Condensed to three days and located right in the heart of Yorkville, Toronto Fashion Week has come and gone just like that. Here’s our recap of the backstage beauty looks:
Narces
For the homage to Marlene Dietrich, MAC Senior Artist Melissa Gibson had to erase all the brows. “Kill me,” she said of the challenge posed by brow blocking for runway because of lighting. “You’re trying to cover it, smashing as much concealer as you can to try to take the colour down and disguise it, but in person it’s never 100 per cent.” Rather than draw black lines in for brows, Gibson just darkened them a shade than each model’s natural colour and gave them shape rather than making them straight across. A black lip with a pointed and defined cupid’s bow, plus a smoky eye taken a bit higher completed the look. Why Marlene? “Honestly, she (designer Nikki Wirthensohn) was just really feeling it.” Hair was placed in a faux bob, after curled using two different sized barrels.
UNTTLD
Gibson’s directive was to not make the models look doll-like even though the look ended up being wide eyed and Kewpie-esque. “We’re taking these four sets of lashes and just chopping them up into pieces so that they’re not uniform,” she said. To keep it from being totally like a plastic toy, Gibson added a slight bit of shading through the inner corner of the eyes. A nude lip finished the look. Hair was kept sleek off the face, with a pretzel shape twist at the back of the head. “It’s just to give a really nice detail,” said Claire McFadden from The Cellar Salon.
House of Suri
“Androgyny, uniformity, individuality and a bit mannequin-looking,” was the direction the hair and makeup team was given for House of Suri. “They wanted it looking like all of them came out of a factory and every one was just the same,” explained Saira Remtulla, Senior Lead stylist at Radford Studio.
Hair-wise, this meant a hard, distinct part, with nice and solid textured ends. Makeup-wise, it meant mannequin-looking skin, accented with linear details.
To get that “porcelain, perfect skin,” MAC Senior Artist, Jane McKay, used Gold Light Strobe Cream for a glow, then added foundation and concealer only where needed. “These girls needed to have flawless-looking skin, but we didn’t want them to look like they had foundation,” she explained. She sculpted the face using a mix of Quite Natural and Tailor Grey Pro Longwear Paint Pots, then added some mascara. The lines were created using white acrylic paint, and followed the rule of thirds, with one third of the line being straight, and then other two thirds having a bit of an arc, following a line on the face. Then, Jane finished things off with a Hug Me, a soft pink, natural-looking lipstick.
Hayley Elsaesser
The theme for Hayley Elsaesser? Teenage wasteland, which meant a whole lotta shimmer and glitter. Makeup-wise, the 30 models (both professional and amateur) were dusted with opalescent highlighter for a modern, out-of-this-world look. “When [Hayley] showed the inspiration of what she wanted, I fell in love with it instantly because it was amazing light reflection in these opal tones, then she had a real alternative lip,” said MAC Senior Artist, Jane McKay.
To create the holographic effect, Jane first applied MAC Strobe Cream strobe cream, then used Show Gold Extra Dimension Skin Finish all over the eyes, cheekbones and into the temples, adding Pink Opal pigment over top. For the girls, McKay layered Magenta pigment on the centre of the eye, softly diffusing it for a pop of colour. The same was done for the boys, only with Blue Brown pigment. “It’s a very rock ‘n roll eye colour,” she explained. The alternative lip was a mix of Blue and Cyanne Lipmix, with Reflex Glitter in Transparent Teal added over top for added dimension.
As for hair? It was all about the unicorn look. “[Hayley] just wanted it to be very natural texture, and literally just pouring sparkles on top,” said Saira Remtulla, Senior Lead Stylist at Radford. Using a volumizing spray and a salt spray by Unite, Remtulla created a nice, wet look, before “going to town” with the sparkles and setting it all in with a hard hold spray.
And of course, there were the nails. The team at Holdengrace took the Teenage Wasteland theme quite literally, with a team of nail artists all being handed a bag of accessories and given creative freedom to do what they pleased. Once all the nails were designed, they were put all the different looks together.
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