Paris: October 5
By Rebecca Voight
Wow, it’s Sunday and it’s almost time to say ‘That’s all folks!’
Marc Jacobs had Edith Piaf singing her heart out for one of the best Louis Vuitton collections ever. The mood was titi Parisienne and the models with poodle dos did have what the French call “du chien.” But by the end of the show it was clear Jacobs had set Parisian cheeky chic to an African beat.
There were Yves Saint Laurent’s vibrant North African colors and a ’70s kind of elegance à la Marina Schiano (YSL’s New York alter ego back then) with a hint of Josephine Baker. Jackets, and everything else, were cinched with patchwork obi belts—an accessory worth buying this spring. The mini circle skirts looked like the Folies Bergère in mixtures of several fabrics with scarf-hem petticoats in black point d’esprit net. Suede patchwork jackets with plunging necklines were curved to the body and Jacobs did the only high-rise baggy trousers worth looking at this season. Sometimes he plastered the front of a transparent sweater with marabou, transforming the model into an exotic bird. There’s a great jacket in blue metallic leather that is sure to be a hit, and the big bag is a bright patchwork drawstring and with a leopard inset, straight out of the Parisian jungle.
And at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz was in a similarly bright mood. The show started slowly with his customary big-bowed and sashed balloon shapes. But then the tempo changed and out came electric blue and green leopard-print poufs worn with matching bright, jewelled glasses, a wonderful accordion-pleat satin skirt and brilliant glittery pieces scattered with floral jewels and metallic fringe.
What could Miuccia Prada possibly do at Miu Miu to close Paris fashion week? Maybe two skirts are better than one. Or what about a black skirt with a colored belt and a sort of matching pleated apron hanging off to the side? It was a bit complicated, but it looked good. And the flowing, pleated skirts in layers, marked graffiti-style at the waist, paired with sleeveless scoop necks or off-the-shoulder bustier tops were perfectly proportioned in a season that sees the waist coming back in force. It looked like Mrs. Prada was trying to say something about the world economy when the skirts and blouses came out full of moth holes, but she was actually thinking of ancient civilizations in her mix of Roman mosaic portraits.
Shown: Louis Vuitton Spring 2009. Photography by Peter Stigter
Rebecca Voight is a Paris-based freelance writer.
LOUIS VUITTON | LANVIN
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