The Paris (Fashion Week) Review: Belles of the Bals

It was high day for belles of the Bals: Balenciaga and Balmain, competing bold shoulder-to-shoulder for the minds and hearts of international editrixes… and Rihanna, who cast her vote of attendance for the latter. More importantly, as Suzy Menkes reported, Christophe Decarnin won the thumb war: tweets about Balmain outnumbered those about Balenciaga, 75 to 41. I’m loathe to be a lemming here, but maybe I agree (and no, I’m not just bitter about not getting the golden ticket to Ghesquière’s show. I still love). Sure, Decarnin is de trop, but the Mad Maxines storming down his runway are indeed a force to be reckoned with. And if we can ignore the bullet belts, a little grime and deconstruction does wonders for the sex-and-rock look. As for Balenciaga’s sharp veer out of form–sportif, haphazardly geometric, neon-sprayed?–who knows. Fashion hordes may decry it now, but just wait til the spring issues.

And today, another rejuvenated–well, resuscitated–French fashion legend enters the fray. Vionnet is alive again with Rodolfo Paglialunga (a former Prada man) at the helm. Just cause for a whole runway shebang, you’d think, but I spent the morning surveying the collection on mannequins in a marble-floored showroom. Perhaps that’s to blame for the tribute-show effect? After all, homage does not a house revival make. Shell-like silhouettes, a Madame Vionnet hallmark, were faultless. Colours were gemmy, gorgeous. The silks, exquisite. But before the new Vionnet can earn Balenciaga comparisons, I need to see it move! Energy! When I say this out loud, the PR tells me that the fussy brooches can be removed from the dresses, and that they can be worn backwards. Well, that’s a start…

Et puis: Dior circus in the Tuileries! And because I just had to stop for old postcards, a beret I’ll never actually wear, and a double-scoop of pistachio gelato, I’ll be late. Wish me luck, mes amis.

Balmain Spring Summer 2010 Video by Karen Kooper from Karen Kooper on Vimeo.

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