Toronto: Biddell and Lucian Matis Fall 2009

We all have fond memories of coloured denim, right? Evan Biddell hopes so. Of all the rock-steady looks he rolled down the runway–where ”styling” equalled ”more studded leather!” and the soundtrack was a deafening jam–what stood out most were streetwise separates in plum, teal and chartreuse.

There was a surfeit of sporty, multi-zip jackets, from bikers to bombers and even a hooded capelet. Pants were drop-crotch, but not the slinky harem styles of recent trend reports; Biddell’s are stiff and boyish, with cool cargo pockets. (And in a putty colour, paired with zip vest and jersey, looked supremely wearable.) The jumpsuit made a requisite appearance too: sleeveless and nearly shapeless, it came (like everything) layered heavily with black knits. Hoods abounded, but another signature–the outsize cowl neck–was replaced by ropey coils of a long wool scarf.

It wouldn’t be Biddell without a bizarro graphic print or two, worked into otherwise sophisticated pieces. We’ll ignore those. Instead, watch out for a couple of bold frocks that proved to be instant fan favourites. For party girls, a chartreuse cocktail mini–all major draping and folding down the front–will play nicely with embellished tights. And Lanvin lovers like us will line up for a black-belted, aubergine shift with padded hips and one puffed mutton sleeve.

Extra, extra: Project Runway alum and maximalist dressmaker Lucian Matis has been reading the headlines (well, those, or his last season’s reviews). He’s shed (most of) his ruffles for a more sober, contemplative, yet still romantic, vision of the modern woman. Perhaps one inspired by Comrags? The same rich-earth palette and styling touches applied, not to mention all that wood-nymph hair (though he couldn’t resist adding antlers–oh, Canada!).

Prints were very Secret Garden, accents came subtly in rusted metallic and pencil skirts (some with twisted volume) carried the day. For evening, inky satin ruled. A tall dark column of a gown, embellished and asymmetrically strapped, was the best of his last looks. Though really, all of it was fit for Diana — not the princess, but the mythological huntress among Greek gods.

LUCIAN MATIS | ALL FALL 2009

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