FASHION Magazine

See the Rodarte beauty looks up close »

“Today we’re doing an ‘80s intention,” said hairstylist Odile Gilbert backstage at Rodarte. What that meant was a side part, a hair flip, and lots and lots of mousse. And she added a very Rodarte touch: zebra-print extensions: black-white, black-gold, blonde-black, all hand-painted.

Add some graphic eyeliner and serious contouring, and you’re instantly transported to the Sunset Strip: “The [Rodarte] girls were very inspired, since they grew up there, by L.A. This is a kind of wild LA girl. The real L.A., not the red carpet L.A.,” said Nars artist James Kaliardos. “She has brushed-up brows, and they’re quite wild and animal-like. It’s that feeling of a rock chick from L.A.” Are you getting the sense that the look was inspired by Los Angeles?

See the Spring 2014 beauty photos from Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung and Alexander Wang »

Backstage at Jason Wu on Friday, I spotted it from across the room: bright, metallic sparkle all over the models’ eyelids. Diane Kendal for Lancôme created a dramatic but refined eye look for Wu inspired by Marlene Dietrich. “We wanted the eye to reflect light,” said Kendal. “To give it that feeling of summer.” The base was a caramel-y brown shade (Lancôme Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Pan Shadow & Liner Palette in “Bronze Amour”); then she used a damp brush, dipped it in fine glitter, and applied it to the centre of the eye. The effect was completely luminous. And the rest of the face was bare…a trend that would continue backstage at the weekend’s other Spring 2014 shows as well.