FASHION Magazine
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The Feminist Beauty Messages That Ruled NYFW Fall 2018
New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 wraps up tonight and before we move along to London, Milan and Paris, it’s worth noting that New York has set a great precedent of strong beauty messages this season. Full of feminist ideas depicted through hair and makeup, we caught up with the beauty pros backstage at NYFW […]
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10 Makeup Artists to Follow in 2018 if You Want to See More Than Cut Creases on Your Feed
New year, new you, right? While you’re resolving to clean up your diet, your apartment, and your personal life, why not clean up your Instagram feed, too? By now, we’re sure it’s cluttered with a ton of makeup artists you don’t remember following, who all do some variation of a full face of makeup. Which […]
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We Talk to Legendary Makeup Artist Diane Kendal About Her Collection for M.A.C
If you ever have the pleasure of interviewing makeup artist Diane Kendal backstage at New York Fashion Week, you’ll likely notice a few things. First, she goes seemingly makeup-free. Second, she has such a soothing, gentle voice, you’ll wonder what it would be like to have her read you a bedtime story. And third, she […]
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Why M.A.C’s latest collaboration is its most impressive ever
A video posted by M∙A∙C Cosmetics (@maccosmetics) on Jun 6, 2016 at 9:05am PDT If there’s one beauty brand that does collaborations right, it’s M.A.C Cosmetics. The fact that the brand announces a new partnership on the weekly guarantees that they are pros. For M.A.C’s latest collab, #MACMakeupArtCosmetics, rather than teaming up with a celeb or a […]
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Indigo Girls: Examining the violet-eyed, origami-haired beauty look on the Jason Wu Fall 2013 runway
See all the backstage beauty details from Jason Wu Fall 2013 »
If you’re looking to add a little drama to your beauty look, purple is certainly the way to go. While the Jason Wu Fall 2013 collection was primarily black and white, the runway was given a burst of colour in the form of an exaggerated violet cat-eye that anchored every look. The bold colour choice was taken from Wu’s finale dress. To get the look, makeup artist Diane Kendal applied purple eye pencil, indigo shadow and shimmering lilac pigment, blending the edges as she went. Several coats of black mascara added definition while a subtle lip balm and velvet skin ensured the rest of the look was soft—keeping the eyes as the focus point of it all.
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New York Fashion Week backstage beauty: Spring 2014 is a battle between brights and barely-there
See the Spring 2014 beauty photos from Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung and Alexander Wang »
Backstage at Jason Wu on Friday, I spotted it from across the room: bright, metallic sparkle all over the models’ eyelids. Diane Kendal for Lancôme created a dramatic but refined eye look for Wu inspired by Marlene Dietrich. “We wanted the eye to reflect light,” said Kendal. “To give it that feeling of summer.” The base was a caramel-y brown shade (Lancôme Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Pan Shadow & Liner Palette in “Bronze Amour”); then she used a damp brush, dipped it in fine glitter, and applied it to the centre of the eye. The effect was completely luminous. And the rest of the face was bare…a trend that would continue backstage at the weekend’s other Spring 2014 shows as well.
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Makeup artists Dick Page and Diane Kendal dissect the return to ’90s-inspired minimalist beauty
See the top ’90s-inspired beauty products in Diane and Dick’s tool kit »
By Celia Ellenberg
About halfway through the spring 2013 shows in New York, one thing became clear: Contours, not colour, were set to define the season. Gone were the deep wine-stained lips and tinted lashes from fall; in their place was, well, very little to speak of.
“It is a reaction to the economic times we are in. Huge, glamorous, overdone hair and makeup don’t make sense,” says makeup artist Diane Kendal, who had a big hand in this sea change. Over the past few seasons, Kendal has made boyish, raw but beautiful faces something of a calling card as the backstage go-to for cool designers like Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang and, more recently, Victoria Beckham. “Their point of view is what I translate,” Kendal humbly insists, pointing out that there was a ’90s-era lens on the collective perspective for spring.
“The look seems to have a modern feel,” she says, explaining why designers requested the decade’s sparse style en masse. “People like the simplicity—the pureness of design. It’s clean.” It’s also significantly less undone than it was 20 years ago. “It’s less grungy this time around.” The new minimalism is about subtly accentuating features rather than cultivating a full-on “look.” The irony, of course, is that a full-on look is actually easier to pull off than the “nothing” makeup that Kendal and fellow face-painters such as Shiseido artistic director Dick Page pioneered.
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New York Fashion Week Spring 2012 backstage beauty: One show, two (or more!) beauty looks was the trend at Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, Anna Sui and more
Remember when makeup artist Francois Nars created 65 different looks for the Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 show? Well, that didn’t happen this time around at New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 but some designers did decide to deviate from a uniform beauty statement, creating a few different looks for one show. Here’s our rundown of the best double takes from backstage:
Alexander Wang
Though Guido Palau gave every girl at Alexander Wang a tight, low ponytail, the accessory that ran down the centre part differed—a glow-in-the-dark adhesive strip on blondes and a black one for brunettes. The fair-haired set also had a different experience in the makeup chair: Diane Kendal bleached brows and created luminous skin, while their dark-haired counterparts had strong brows and matte skin.Read on for multiple looks from Anna Sui, Michael Kors and more! »
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New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 backstage beauty: Big brows at Thakoon, dripping nails at Prabal Gurung and Peter Som proves rainbow-coloured hair is still going strong
While the trend so far at New York Fashion Week has been minimal makeup that wasn’t the case at Peter Som. For starters, rainbow-hued extensions (dyed the day prior by colourist Aura Freidman) were tucked randomly in hair, styled by Eugene Souleiman. On the face, Tom Pecheux also wanted randomness and he used his finger tips to apply colour on the eyes, with the goal of looking like a child’s painting. Finally, you know how we feel about French manicures at FASHION. (If not, let me bring you up to speed: ewww!) But when done right (i.e., no acrylics and no white, squared off tips) we can get behind the style. A perfect exception-making example: the creamy orange and mint combo that used two out of the three shades from Zoya’s custom nail polish range for Peter Som.
Read on for more backstage beauty at New York Fashion Week »
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NYFW backstage beauty: Pink powdered hair and gold nails at Thakoon
There was a distinct cloud of dust hovering in the air backstage at Thakoon. Some models were coughing, a drop cloth had been laid on the floor, and there was a film of particles covering my iPhone. The culprit? Clay powders of varying shades that hair stylist Odile Gilbert had Fed Ex’d from Europe where they’re sold in pharmacies and health food stores. Applying it to the girls—either mixed with water or in its innate, powdery texture—was a nod to Holi, the annual festival of colour in India where the civilians throw coloured powder and water at each other. To give the illusion of bobs—albeit ones with tons of texture—hair was braided up into two different styles. (And yes, they were washing everything out post-show.) As an extension of the Indian influence, nails were painted with Nars nail polish in “Versailles,” a pale gold.
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NYFW backstage beauty: Red lips and bobby pins at Jason Wu
The humidity in New York right now may be horrible for hair, but it’s doing wonders for skin. It helps to explain the luminous skin witnessed backstage at Jason Wu, first prepped with skincare by Sunday Riley. “A lot of the girls are coming from Peter Som where the makeup was heavier, so we’re leaving cleanser on for a little bit longer,” explained Riley. A pump of her lactic acid cream was included for additional exfoliation. Then it was off into the hands of makeup artist Diane Kendal, who perfected skin with concealer, and blotted T-zones with powder. Taking direction from Wu’s inspiration for his collection of ‘50s and ‘90s Pop Art, as well as NYC artist KAWS, Kendal painted bright-red tomato mouths using a trifecta of product: M.A.C. Lip Pencil in “Redd,” a yet-to-be-launched lipstick shade called “Scarlet Ibis,” and M.A.C. Pigment in “Neon Orange.” Mascara was skipped, but lids were treated to a thin black line close to the lashes and smudged “to give eyes some definition.” OPI’s “Monsooner Than Later”—a near match to the lips—was applied to fingers, while “Samoan Sand,” a nude, was painted on toes.
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NYFW backstage video: Guido Palau explains the hair at Alexander Wang
Beauty editor Lesa Hannah goes backstage at New York Fashion Week to talk with hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Diane Kendal about the look at Alexander Wang. Watch more backstage beauty videos from New York Fashion Week» Read more of our coverage from the Spring 2011 shows»
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