FASHION Magazine

The eyes, hair and nails have been making most of the beauty statements so far on the Fall 2014 runways at New York Fashion Week. Here are our favourite looks and the top beauty trends so far:

Russet lipstick as eyeshadow at Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang’s textured, masculine collection was complemented with a simple, pared down face punctuated by a soft wash of lustrous burgundy on the eye. “It’s very minimal and clean but with a hint of punk,” said lead artist Hannah Murray, who painted Nars lipstick in “Deborah Audacious” (coming this fall) onto the eye and pressed “Heat” bronzing powder over it to set. She skipped eyeliner, mascara and brow colour, and kept the under-eye area clean to avoid a “pink-eye” effect.

See Spring 2014’s top 5 trends so far »

Alexander Wang shot by Peter Stigter

Rag & Bone shot by Peter Stigter

Photography courtesy of Jeremy Laing

DKNY shot by Peter Stigter

Lacoste shot by Pweter Stigter

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Spring 2014 Logo Trend Alexander Wang

LOGO MANIA

Between Alexander Wang and DKNY, the two pace-setting New York designers are taking the logo to the next level. In an over-the-top throwback to old school New York streetwear, both designers went all out, think in-your-face prints at DKNY and laser cut everything (skirts, crop tops, coats, gloves) at Wang.

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Spring 2014 Crop Top Trend Rag Bone

CROP TOPS

Time to renew that Pilates membership because toned abs and crop tops are cropping up once again all over spring runways. From halters at Rag & Bone and athletic brights at DKNY to structured with lace at Jill Stuart and laser-cut mesh at Alexander Wang, these new crops aren’t for the faint of heart.

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Spring 2014 Sheer Trend Jeremy Laing

SHEER

When designers weren’t endorsing bare midriffs with full on crop tops, they were hinting at it with suggestively sheer fabrics. We saw sheer stripes at Peter Som and Tibi, see-through layers at Jason Wu and Jeremy Laing, and sheer fabrics remixed with prints and patterns at Rebecca Taylor and Ostwald Helgason.

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Spring 2014 Minimalism Trend DKNY

‘90s MINIMALISM
Designers are still stuck in the ‘90s for spring, but this season grunge and punk have given way to the crisp, clean minimalism of the late ‘90s. Delicate spaghetti-strapped slip dresses ruled at Jason Wu and DKNY, while Helmut Lang and Rag & Bone endorsed the season’s new minimalism in seriously simple suits and separates.

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Spring 2014 Sage Green Trend Lacoste

SAGE GREEN

Signaling fresh spring renewal, we’re spotting sage green all over New York runways. Jason Wu did it in a pale sage short suit and organza dresses, while Ruffian’s silk cotton pantsuit played up the shade’s ocean-y undertones. Meanwhile, Lacoste toned down it’s signature shade for tennis court-ready looks in preppy pale green.

The first half of New York Fashion Week Spring flew by in a flurry of silk chiffon and pretty prints and although it’s still early days, we’re already noticing some key looks emerging on runways. Here are the top 5 trends on our radar for Spring 2014 so far.

Remember when makeup artist Francois Nars created 65 different looks for the Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 show? Well, that didn’t happen this time around at New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 but some designers did decide to deviate from a uniform beauty statement, creating a few different looks for one show. Here’s our rundown of the best double takes from backstage:

Alexander Wang
Though Guido Palau gave every girl at Alexander Wang a tight, low ponytail, the accessory that ran down the centre part differed—a glow-in-the-dark adhesive strip on blondes and a black one for brunettes. The fair-haired set also had a different experience in the makeup chair: Diane Kendal bleached brows and created luminous skin, while their dark-haired counterparts had strong brows and matte skin.

Read on for multiple looks from Anna Sui, Michael Kors and more! »

While the majority of our favourite looks are compiled in the Fall/Winter beauty trend report there were three in particular that we couldn’t stop thinking about. Whether you’re seeking the perfect pink lip or want to try a twist on the traditional manicure, we’re sure you’ll love them too.

See the looks we loved! »

The cat-eye is having a moment. Celia Ellenberg takes us through its many versions over the years and finds out how to execute them.

While spring tends to signal the arrival of all beauty things light and bright, the runways told a different story this season as designers embraced a certain graphic cosmetic accoutrement that’s seen an impressive evolution over the past few centuries. Behold, the rebirth of the cat-eye. Black-rimmed upper lash lines were the makeup look of choice at shows such as Ruffian and Dolce & Gabbana, and while the backstage miracle workers made it look easy, mastering the perfect flick on your own can be a different story. We’ve gathered eight eyeliner icons and asked Hourglass Cosmetics’ artistic director Gina Brooke and makeup artist Pati Dubroff to weigh in on whether the liquid pen is truly mightier than the kohl pencil when it comes to crafting the perfect winged liner. Because, according to Brooke, “if you use the right products, getting the look is not an issue.”

GET THE LOOK:
CLEOPATRA | AUDREY HEPBURN | SOPHIA LOREN | BRIGETTE BARDOT | BETTY DRAPER | KATE MOSS | AMY WINEHOUSE | ADELE

See our behind-the-scenes gallery from Ruffian »
Learn how to do the gold foil mani! »

In the final days of Toronto Fashion Week, one thing was starting to become very apparent: deep red nails are going to be huge for fall. Chloé Comme Parris and Pink Tartan both used the same maroon Essie shade—“Wicked”—and similar colours had been popping up at international shows all season, including Ferragamo, Jenny Packham and Bill Blass. Rachel Roy leaned towards an aubergine-tinted red, while Yigal Azrouel dubbed his shade of choice “pinot noir.” At L.A.M.B., burgundy polish covered just the moon, leaving the rest of the nail bare. And where red appears, gold seems to follow: the Toronto shows for Jeremy Laing and Ruffian paired both colours on the same nail, whereas Marchesa alternated all-burgundy (Deborah Lippmann’s “Single Ladies”) and all-gold manicures down the runway.

View the full collection » See all Toronto Fashion Week coverage »

The post TFW Video: Behind-the-scenes at the Fall 2012 Ruffian show! appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

View the full collection »
See all Toronto Fashion Week coverage »

For the later showing at the Ritz-Carlton last night, The ShOws brought the New York–based duo behind Ruffian, Claude Morais and Brian Wolk, to Toronto for the retelling of their Fall 2012 collection. The label’s penchant for roughed up old-timey England was front and centre this time around, as the designers showed lengthy plaid double breasters, leather-trimmed updates on the riding jacket, velvet knee-length mermaid skirts and luxe-looking ruffled collars. The stellar collection was worthy of Mary Crawley, no doubt, but it was only too bad that it didn’t get the eyeballs it deserved, as so much of the likely fatigued fashion crowd skipped what was the 10th day of shows. Here’s one vote in favour of Toronto Fashion Week being, well, a week?

It’s no secret that we’re huge fans of inventive manicures (check out our DIY Nails video series and Nail Corner column for further proof) and without a doubt the best inspiration comes from the runways. It’s worth pointing out that nude nails—that is, sheer taupe shades in barely-there colours—continued to dominate in New York. However, despite the abundance of one-colour manicures, CND, M.A.C, and Essie produced some very exciting nail-art designs for Fall 2012.

See our top manicure picks from NYFW! »

While many people apply polish to avoid biting their nails, I’m the other way around: my biggest motivation to stop picking, biting, and fidgeting was the dream of perfectly shaped long nails. The type that Mad Men’s Betty Draper wears, nail expert Sophy Robson obsesses over, and that designers, such as Emanuel Ungaro, have brought to the runway: oval- or almond-shaped and long! However, the conundrum with longer nails is that they really stand out when painted in bright or dark colours. Sure, taupes and beiges are on trend, but sometimes a girl just needs a pop of colour. Enter this week’s Nail Corner: two versions of the crescent moon manicure. Made popular by Ruffian in Fall 2010, this is an easy twist on the ever-popular moon manicure—it leaves the base of your nail bare and looks more like a reverse French tip than a half-moon.

See the manicures! »

Sixties model Ellen Harth died Sunday at the age of 71. The Berlin-born Harth modelled for many top designers in her youth, eventually going on to open her own modelling agency, which would become an offshoot of Elite Models. [WWD]

Diane Von Furstenberg was mugged this past weekend in Madrid. DVF tweeted about the initial incident, then followed up with a “Please stop worrying about me” tweet. What did she expect? [CityFile]

The new line Mise en Scene by Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais has hit Anthropologie. The lower-priced collection of clothing and home décor was inspired by starlet dressing rooms in films like All About Eve and Stage Fright. The classic Ruffian style of sharp tailoring and classic, elegant fabrics are still there, but for a price that (probably) won’t give you buyer’s remorse. [Racked]

Coach designer Reed Krakoff will show his new line of accessories in February 2010 during Fashion Week. [The Cut]

Vera Wang opted out of Dancing with the Stars but not because she can’t dance. Apparently ABC refused to let Vera Wang design her own costumes for the show. You just don’t do that. [FWD]