FASHION Magazine

A photo posted by Charlotte Tilbury (@ctilburymakeup) on Aug 19, 2015 at 9:47am PDT Many Europeans take a month off in August. The whole month. That includes some of our favourite runway makeup artists and hairstylists like Charlotte Tilbury and Sam McKnight. In fact, right now many of them are poolside, having dinner al fresco with friends, […]

The post Vacation envy: Our favourite hairstylists and makeup artists are all in Ibiza this summer appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Silver screen beauties at Dries Van Noten
First, we saw them at Rodarte Spring 2013. Then they returned at Thakoon this season, and here they are again at Dries Van Noten. Ear jewelry! Makeup artist Peter Philips is all about appliques (he’s behind those the crystal brows at Chanel and the glued on neoprene under eyeliner seen at Fendi Spring 2013) so it didn’t surprise us that he was the one to adhere rock crystal formations on nine Dries Van Noten models’ ears. His make up was kept simple—black liner, matte skin and filled in brows—so as not to compete with the many twinkling elements in the collection. Hairstylist Paul Hanlon did marcel waves, with Old Hollywood as a reference. Think: A magical dance scene featuring Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, aka what Channing and Charlize were trying to achieve at the Oscars.

See the full backstage beauty gallery from 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2013 »

Makeup inspiration at 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2013:
“She’s a sophisticated girl. She spends time in the mirror in the morning. She has an edge, she could live uptown and have a downtown boyfriend, or at nighttime be in a rock band.” – Francelle Daly, Nars lead makeup artist.

Get the look:
Daly applied Nars Luminous Moisture Cream and a illuminating foundation for a dewy effect. She also used a peachy highlighter (Nars highlighting blush in “Miss Liberty”) on cheekbones and the bridge of the nose. “It’s a flawless complexion, but it’s effortless.” Daly brushed “Yamal,” a camel shadow, on lids, defined brows with a pencil and curled top and bottom lashes with a clear mascara.

On lips she used Nars lip liner pencil in “Kenya,” a brownish red shade, to trace and fill in the mouth. Then she brushed “Mambo” eyeliner pencil on top to give it “depth and richness.”

While the trend so far at New York Fashion Week has been minimal makeup that wasn’t the case at Peter Som. For starters, rainbow-hued extensions (dyed the day prior by colourist Aura Freidman) were tucked randomly in hair, styled by Eugene Souleiman. On the face, Tom Pecheux also wanted randomness and he used his finger tips to apply colour on the eyes, with the goal of looking like a child’s painting. Finally, you know how we feel about French manicures at FASHION. (If not, let me bring you up to speed: ewww!) But when done right (i.e., no acrylics and no white, squared off tips) we can get behind the style. A perfect exception-making example: the creamy orange and mint combo that used two out of the three shades from Zoya’s custom nail polish range for Peter Som.

Read on for more backstage beauty at New York Fashion Week »

“It’s all about a red wine–stained, snogged mouth,” said Lucia Pieroni of the makeup at Giles Spring 2012 show, applying M.A.C’s lip pencil in “Brick” onto the inside of the mouth and “Burgundy” on top, blended outward with a Q-tip. “There’s no defined line around the edge, but it’s quite dark in the middle.” The rest of the face was quite bare—a smidge of “Russian Red” lipstick on the cheeks, rubbed in with a large brush and a bit of lip balm on the eyelids, tops of the cheeks, and on the bridge of the nose for a bit of highlight.

Ahh, Florida; the ‘50s Miami woman inspired the hair and makeup at Jonathan Saunders, where Paul Hanlon first blow-dried hair using Fekkai Strong Hold Mousse—“it gives a lot of guts to the hair,” he said—then parted it on the right and combed it into a low ponytail, tied with a basic black elastic. Then, using his fingers, he pulled bits out around the ears. “It gives it a feeling of being undone; a moment that’s just gone kind of wrong,” he said. “It’s a little bit disrupted and takes away from it looking so done.” The finishing touch: a brown bobby pin, its end tucked in, pinned just the way a girl would to get her hair off her face. Easy, not too messy, and not too clean.

The master of cool, disheveled hair, Paul Hanlon described the look backstage at Proenza Schouler ‘50s-inspired, with a nod to Elvis. “But it’s not too literal because it can obviously look a bit retro, a little bit tacky, so we had to be very careful in the way that we did it.” In Hanlon’s mind, this is a girl who’s borrowed her dad’s pomade and tried to recreate his style but with her own spin on it. Prepping the hair with Fekkai Ocean Wave Spray to create a dry, matte texture, he then applied Fekkai Coiff Forming Wax through the hairline. “Then we’re using a blow-dryer and melting the wax into the hair. That way when it cools down it sets, so it has a lot of hold in the hair.” Employing a men’s barbering comb, the sides were raked up for that ‘50s touch with the volume on top kept low. “I don’t want it to look like a big quiff.” In the back, transparent elastic was sewn into the hair with a tapestry needle to prevent the length from hanging all the way down. Fekkai Sheer Hold Hairspray and a blow-dryer melted the raw shape into place. “We wanted something tougher and cooler but at the same time quite chic. It’s a continuation of what we did with the hair last season, this idea of very organic, weathered hair.”

We break down the biggest (and most decorative) hair moment on the runways and give you all you need to know for fall.

By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

See the top hair trends for fall »

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