FASHION Magazine

By Malena Harbers

Today, it’s all about customizing your tan,” says skin-care expert Nichola Joss, who created a variety of caramel tones for models at the Spring 2012 shows of British designers such as Issa and House of Holland. Designed to work with the spirit of each collection, Joss’s handiwork illustrates the idea that one hue indeed does not fit all. By adding, omitting or changing the way you apply a product, you can create a completely different-looking tan. Here, we break down the shades.

SUN-KISSED
Suntan equivalent:
A day out in the garden
Seen at: Roksanda Ilincic

MID-TONE
Suntan equivalent:
A long-weekend at the cottage
Seen at: Erdem

HOLOGRAPHIC
Suntan equivalent:
A week in the Mediterranean
Seen at: House of Holland

BRONZE
Suntan equivalent:
Weeks of sun-worshipping in Brazil
Seen at: Issa

From hot spots to celebrity front-rowers, London fashion week was brimmed with hot designer collabs, florals and balloons!

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“It’s all about a red wine–stained, snogged mouth,” said Lucia Pieroni of the makeup at Giles Spring 2012 show, applying M.A.C’s lip pencil in “Brick” onto the inside of the mouth and “Burgundy” on top, blended outward with a Q-tip. “There’s no defined line around the edge, but it’s quite dark in the middle.” The rest of the face was quite bare—a smidge of “Russian Red” lipstick on the cheeks, rubbed in with a large brush and a bit of lip balm on the eyelids, tops of the cheeks, and on the bridge of the nose for a bit of highlight.

While Erdem Moralioglu showed Anna Wintour his pieces backstage (and everyone tried to stay out of their way), hair and makeup artists buzzed about in frenzy—this was one backstage that was not so calm. Inspired by “south of France chic” and Chloë Sevigny, Charles Worthington himself created a high, soft, and swishy ponytail to match the sophisticated, utterly gorgeous spring collection. Starting with Charles Worthington Front Row Volume Blow Dry Spray to give the roots a “sort of fluffy texture,” the girls’ hair was then pulled back and secured a two-finger width below the crown with a black elastic. Heat Defence Spray was sprayed over the ponytail to give it a bit of shine, and then a large barrel iron was applied to the ends to give them a bit of bend. “It all has a slightly soft, spontaneous look to it,” said Worthington.

Spotted amongst the front row usuals at yesterday’s Temperley show at the British Museum in London: none other than Pippa Middleton! Guys! Do you know what this means? Pippa’s officially courting the fashion spotlight! (Yes, we realize the amount of exclamation points accompanying this post.) While sister Duchess Kate is off do-gooding with Prince William, […]

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Today was a day of standouts at London fashion week, from Peter Pilotto to Christopher Kane and Erdem. The other shows today? Burberry, Mark Fast, and Giles, all of which included some great pieces. Burberry had cropped parkas, African-inspired geometric beading, and straw riding hats with pompoms, while Mark Fast featured looser knits—almost crochet-like, in some cases—on dresses. At Giles we saw swan headpieces by Stephen Jones and laser-cut red leather gown worn by our very own Kate King.

Ice cream, pink lemonade, and nearly 2,000 balloon animals aren’t typical ways to start a Sunday morning—but then we only get to start our day off with a Mulberry fashion show but twice a year. This show is always a big ticket of LFW, for its prime guest list (um, today’s show included Kristen Stewart AND Kate Moss, who wore a Canadian tuxedo and a brown hat!), super-luxe venue (the upscale Claridges Hotel in the tony Mayfair neighbourhood), dogs on the runway (this season: miniature schnauzers), and, obviously, the fact that the brand is one of the fastest-growing luxury brands out there. Another way to start the day: sequins, and yet another sorbet palette of yellow, green, and pink.

Ahh, Florida; the ‘50s Miami woman inspired the hair and makeup at Jonathan Saunders, where Paul Hanlon first blow-dried hair using Fekkai Strong Hold Mousse—“it gives a lot of guts to the hair,” he said—then parted it on the right and combed it into a low ponytail, tied with a basic black elastic. Then, using his fingers, he pulled bits out around the ears. “It gives it a feeling of being undone; a moment that’s just gone kind of wrong,” he said. “It’s a little bit disrupted and takes away from it looking so done.” The finishing touch: a brown bobby pin, its end tucked in, pinned just the way a girl would to get her hair off her face. Easy, not too messy, and not too clean.

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Jardins d’Ashish, a collection chock-a-block with sequined sunflowers, daisies over checkerboard patterns, and the occasional brick wall, brought day two of London fashion week to a sunny start—even if it ended on a much (MUCH!) colder note. After the show, I headed backstage to meet Ashish Gupta, the designer behind Ashish. “I think was feeling quite romantic this season, and didn’t feel like I really needed that sense of humour,” he said. While the designer isn’t widely known in North America, his designs are pretty major across the pond; he’s launching his second Topshop collab next month. (Note to the Bay: bring it, bring it, bring it!)

I decided to kick off London Fashion Week by nearly falling…into my fabulous silver Mercedes Benz sedan. Thanks, British Fashion Council (and ouch, Louboutins)! Not a great start, but all was forgotten once I got to the Jena.Theo show, where an excited Hilary Alexander was already seated, wearing the cutest leopard-print sneakers. Loved the great big hair and red lips inspired by old-Hollywood glamour (fitting for a collection called Fatale).