FASHION Magazine

Rumours surrounding who would take charge at Dior began almost immediately following John Galliano’s dismissal back in February. While former Galliano aid Bill Gaytten had stepped into the role of creative director during Paris Couture Week back in April, we’d assume a megawatter is what LVMH is seeking for the permanent position (especially after Gaytten’s poorly received collection). To date, Ricardo Tisci, Alber Elbaz, and Haider Ackermann have been named as a few of the possible contenders, and now the latest rumours circulating are that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault wants Marc Jacobs for the job.

Yesterday marked the start of Fall 2011’s Paris Couture Week. Though couture is often luxe and intricate, one house stands apart from the rest in boldness and charisma: Christian Dior. But as the cloud of former Dior designer John Galliano’s ongoing trial still looms over the industry, critics suspected the collection would be different due to his absence of direction. To our surprise, “different” turned to out mean shocking, and frankly disappointing.

The collection was what can only be described as an overzealous attempt to rework what is known as Dior. It seems to be of widespread opinion that from the patterns to the cuts, the ensembles simply did not belong in a couture collection. Overall, there was a vast lack of direction and vision, with colours and materials clashing all over the runway.

At the end of the show, creative director Bill Gaytten took a bow, accompanied by his first studio assistant, Susanna Venegas. He seemed elated to be at the head of the runway, but that’s probably because he didn’t see the giant elephant in the room with the “It Wasn’t Galliano” sign around its neck. Gaytten is already set to take over Galliano’s self-titled label, and though there were suspicions that he’d be taking over for the estranged designer at Dior, those can probably be put to rest. Is Gaytten going straight to the guillotine?