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In bowling, it’s called a turkey. In hockey, it’s called a hat trick.  Now that we’ve seen Jeremy Laing’s Fall 2012 collection three times (via both New York and Toronto) we want to know: what is this called in fashion? Given the wearability (no, it’s not a dirty word anymore) of Laing’s current line-up of tailored menswear-inspired separates, maybe the word for it is smart? Fewer architectural dresses found their way into the mix this season. Instead, big bleach-stained jackets, skinny trousers and strong coats took the spotlight. You’re not a Laing girl if you aren’t into layering—think jackets over diaphanous dresses over trousers. Zippers snaked their way down coats and maxi dresses, adding a familiar technical touch to his design aesthetic. Despite the many covered looks, he didn’t batten down all the hatches; a plunging neckline here and a sliver of skin there offered up a side of sexy that complemented this utilitarian feast that wrapped three weeks of shows.

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The ShOws were created to bring back talented expat Canadian designers showing overseas, and London-based Jean-Pierre Braganza is a fine example of a local boy doing good—he’s part of the just-announced Alexa Chung–fronted British Designers Collective for 2012, which means he’ll be retailing his wares in a six-week pop-up shop in Britain’s Bicester Village shopping centre alongside Preen, Holly Fulton, and Erickson Beamon. Toronto got an up-close look at his black, grey and plum and lilac fall collection last night, with its sharp-fitting pencil dresses with slashes of block colour or digi prints, wild patterned knits and voluminous, Westwood-ish bustled skirts.

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Graphic and grungy, the beauty at David Szeto was all about undone and lived-in style. CoverGirl makeup pro Greg Wencel described the makeup as a mix of futuristic grunge, taking inspiration from the graphic patterns of Szeto’s fall collection. It was also a lesson in mixing metals: metallic-tinted illuminators, bronzers, lip gloss and shadows all came together to create a perfectly sculpted face. Skin was given a wet, slick look thanks to Wencel’s own “MacGyver mix” of CoverGirl Intense ShadowBlast with a bit of makeup remover to highlight brow, forehead and cheek. Cheeks and hairline were further sculpted with Cheekers Bronzer, giving a dual luminosity to the skin. Eyes also got a touch of bronze: after applying Intense ShadowBlast in “Platinum Pop” across the lid and into the low crease, bronze was swept along the crease for added contouring. The lower lashline, on the other hand, was blacked out with Liquiline Blast eyeliner, smudged out to create a smoky effect.

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As the opener to last night’s The ShOws at the Ritz-Carlton, Paris/Brussels-based designer David Szeto brought his commercial collection of updated wrap dresses, simple suiting and mix printed separates for the first time. It was luxe to be sure—think gold-linked belts with jewelled detailing, black on white ruffled collars and chain hems on Chanel-esque jackets. The collection is sure to do well in a retail setting, but perhaps didn’t feel special enough to take the ushering helm of the third week of shows.

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Last night, our boy Lewis Mirrett was treated to the paparazzi treatment, when a security guard booted him off the Ritz Carlton property. “But I’m just trying to photograph the clothes!” he protested, but alas, the clearly un-fashioned gent didn’t get it. (As if you haven’t heard of Tommy Ton!) Ever the trooper, he still managed to turn out some pretty wicked shots from between the bushes. Check ’em out.

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The post TFW Video: Behind-the-scenes at the Fall 2012 Ruffian show! appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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For the later showing at the Ritz-Carlton last night, The ShOws brought the New York–based duo behind Ruffian, Claude Morais and Brian Wolk, to Toronto for the retelling of their Fall 2012 collection. The label’s penchant for roughed up old-timey England was front and centre this time around, as the designers showed lengthy plaid double breasters, leather-trimmed updates on the riding jacket, velvet knee-length mermaid skirts and luxe-looking ruffled collars. The stellar collection was worthy of Mary Crawley, no doubt, but it was only too bad that it didn’t get the eyeballs it deserved, as so much of the likely fatigued fashion crowd skipped what was the 10th day of shows. Here’s one vote in favour of Toronto Fashion Week being, well, a week?

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David Dixon has let it go to the birds for fall. Ruffling more than a few feathers, he sent out plumed frocks in a literal homage to Alfred Hitchcock’s famed classic, The Birds. Drawing on a feathery palette, he focused on stiff silk faille in black, cream and teal cut into shift dresses, pencil skirts and eveningwear fit for any Hitchcock heroine. His texture play—fluttering chiffon petals, thick swaths of lace, nubby tweeds and giant paillettes—kept the simple shapes feeling fresh and ready to take flight.

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Joeffer Caoc combined texture and lustre to create modern, feminine silhouettes in his Fall 2012 collection presented last Friday during Toronto Fashion Week. Leather panels detailed dresses giving the Joeffer girl an edge. The collection was on trend with its frequent use of the peplum, and the combination of materials, especially the mixed tweeds and metallics, made the collection appear very versatile. During their final walk, models paraded down the runway to The Sound of Music’s “My Favourite Things,” a fitting song choice for a collection that was a fashion week favourite.

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As the official Worldwide MasterCard Fashion Week came to a close on Friday, the fashion folk were busy taking in the unseasonable sun rays outside the tents wearing, you guessed it, mixed prints. While the same impressive Navajo and striped combos continued their reign, our favourite was the above mix of floral platforms and galaxy-printed tights. Bravo, whoever you are! Check out today’s snap-age, and stay tuned for more from today and tomorrow’s action via the shOws.

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Triarchy’s Fall 2012 show kicked off with a cheeky twist: a trio of models baring almost-all sauntered towards a pile of jeans placed nonchalantly at the end of the runway, sliding into slim-fit pairs before taking to the runway.

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Not many Canadian designers can pack a show on the last day of (official) Toronto Fashion Week quite like Arthur Mendonça. Back on the scene after taking a brief hiatus, his fall collection (his second since his runway return) showcased his greatest strengths: body skimming sheath dresses, skinny leather trousers and hits of high shine, courtesy this time around of a glossy fuchsia trench coat. Stylist (and FASHION’s main man) George Antonopoulos balanced the ‘60s vibe with jaunty bowler hats, cool architectural jewellery courtesy of Dean Davidson and latex leggings. But what do you really need come fall? A Betty Draper–approved white frock with full skirt, a pair of paisley print cropped trousers and any of the acid green pieces. For cocktails, shake things up with a candy foil metallic lace dress, while big time black tie affairs call for Mendonça’s floor-sweeping strapless silk and patent stunner.