FASHION Magazine
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The Schiaparelli revamp: Surrealism’s fashion renegade returns to her throne
Photography by George Konig/Keystone Features/Getty Images Even in today’s highly experimental fashion arena, it seems like a fantasy that a shoe-shaped hat could ever be considered high fashion. That, however, was the fantastical world of Elsa Schiaparelli. A true original, “Schiap” was a dominant fashion force in the ’30s and ’40s, and was hailed as a genius by her contemporaries (a 1934 Time article listed her as even more influential than rival Coco Chanel). Best known for pioneering a sense of playfulness and whimsy in fashion, the Italian-born designer captured the time’s Surrealist zeitgeist in collaborations with artists Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau.
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Paris Fashion Week: The Spring 2014 wow factor at Dries Van Noten and Marco Zanini’s last collection for Rochas
Photography by Peter Stigter Photos from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014 »
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Dries Van Noten did a very smart thing here on day one of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014. At the end of his show, the models lined up across the hall, facing the bleachers like a firing squad. After the music died down, guests climbed down and rushed toward the girls, so they could snap, tweet and gram them, of course.
It must have felt a bit creepy to be standing with your back to a wall as a stampede of phone-wielding fashion fiends came running toward you for a close-up. But no one said modeling was easy on the nerves.
Dries loves florals. These have a vague Asian whiff and came in shapes that still seem bedroom-y. Another theme were passementerie tassels that swung from tunics that looked homespun. But it was Dries’ perma-pleated ruffles that stole the show: gold foil ones snaked over hips, or were coiled into giant hip corsages.
Metal and high gloss shine, proved to be the story of the day. The sparkles at Rochas were blinding, even without the opera-length crystal necklaces. Shapes were relatively simple—polos, short-sleeved toppers, cropped pants—but the fabrics, wow. Silver jacquard florals, reflective nude lame, crystal embroidery, and what looked like helium-filled organza ruffles. Tassels showed up here from the ankles down, with ostrich feathers sweeping away the dust bunnies in style.
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Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013: See-through trousers at Dries Van Voten, peplum hems (and a bit of Gaga) at Mugler, champagne with Eddie Borgo and more
It’s Paris. It’s raining. And the fashion cognoscenti are rethinking their footwear for Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013. Velvet slippers are out. And maybe it wasn’t such a good idea to leave the Hunter wellies at home. Here are some high and low lights from my first day in the city of light: Champagne with […]
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Paris: Marco Zanini does ’60s with an edge at Rochas
Inspired by Goldie Hawn and Ingrid Bergman in the 1969 film Cactus Flower, Marco Zanini did ’60s with an edge at Rochas–cardigans with gold elbow patches, metallic jacquard tunics and trousers, gold lace and camel jumpers. Read more from Paris Fashion Week Fall 2010
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