FASHION Magazine
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Paris Fashion Week: The Spring 2014 wow factor at Dries Van Noten and Marco Zanini’s last collection for Rochas
Photography by Peter Stigter Photos from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014 »
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Photography by Peter Stigter
Dries Van Noten did a very smart thing here on day one of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014. At the end of his show, the models lined up across the hall, facing the bleachers like a firing squad. After the music died down, guests climbed down and rushed toward the girls, so they could snap, tweet and gram them, of course.
It must have felt a bit creepy to be standing with your back to a wall as a stampede of phone-wielding fashion fiends came running toward you for a close-up. But no one said modeling was easy on the nerves.
Dries loves florals. These have a vague Asian whiff and came in shapes that still seem bedroom-y. Another theme were passementerie tassels that swung from tunics that looked homespun. But it was Dries’ perma-pleated ruffles that stole the show: gold foil ones snaked over hips, or were coiled into giant hip corsages.
Metal and high gloss shine, proved to be the story of the day. The sparkles at Rochas were blinding, even without the opera-length crystal necklaces. Shapes were relatively simple—polos, short-sleeved toppers, cropped pants—but the fabrics, wow. Silver jacquard florals, reflective nude lame, crystal embroidery, and what looked like helium-filled organza ruffles. Tassels showed up here from the ankles down, with ostrich feathers sweeping away the dust bunnies in style.
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Paris Fashion Week: Coat volumes push the boundaries at Céline, Stella McCartney, Carven and more for Fall 2013
Photography by Peter Stigter See the coats at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2013 »
Sensory overload! From the wispy feathers at Dries Van Noten to the rock ‘n’ roll studded mini-wrap skirt at Isabel Marant, Paris Fashion Week is an adrenalin-charged sartorial dream. (Seeing Catherine Deneuve munching on popcorn at Lanvin was très surreal.) Ping-ponging from one sensational venue to the next—Palais de Tokyo to Grand Palais to Jardin des Tuileries—is a test of endurance and high-heeled ankle strength. Now at its halfway point, this marathon de la mode has unraveled several key trends. One in particular: I’m seeing much runway love for slouchy XL tailoring. It’s a woman’s world, in a man’s coat. 8 designers (and counting) have rocked relaxed dropped shoulders with wide wrap-me-up lapels and massive boxy silhouettes. Got a little bit of room to spare under that woolen cover-up? All the better for layering winter’s equally large and cozy knits.
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NYFW diary: Canadians in New York, plus floral and paint dripped–induced bliss at Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung shot by Slaven Vlasic/Stringer Oh Canada! Today was a day of amazing Canadian talent on the New York scene with Kimberley Newport-Mimran showing a Brigitte Bardot on the Riviera–inspired collection filled with a mix of jumbo and petite polka-dot pieces, drop-waist, ruffled tank dresses, and bright hits of tangerine. The room stayed at capacity for most of the presentation, forcing nightclub bouncer-like behavior from the security, counting guests in as the same numbers left the space. And across town, Kaelen Farncombe from Oakville, Ontario, showed a relaxed collection of pale blue, blush, and nude crinkled cottons, crepe de Chine, and macramé knits that all looked too cozy to leave the house but too fabulous not to. Ink blot prints, designed in collaboration with another Canadian, Sarah Dobson, on maxi dresses and short suits were a standout.
