FASHION Magazine

Trend: Couturified

Luxe is one word that comes to mind for Fall 2014 at London Fashion Week.
This season, there has been an overwhelming use of lush fabrics, unexpected technique and a new level of intricacy in almost every collection. Decorative art was the theme at Burberry Prorsum, where Christopher Bailey took his well known aesthetic to the next level by hand painting pieces and personalizing accessories for each model on the runway (their initials were on each of the finale ponchos). Both John Rocha and Simone Rocha used sculpture and laser cuts in their pieces.

Mary Katrantzou showed mindblowing Greek-inspired dresses that looked as though been delicately assembled together by string. Jonathan Saunders and Roksanda Ilincic also had 3D dresses made up of laser cutouts almost resembling layered leaves, while Erdem‘s collection had numerous dresses that look like they were constructed from a reinterpreted lace-like fabric. Christopher Kane finished his show with a grouping of ethereal mega-folded organza dresses that caused a gasp in the room when the first one came out. To boot, many designers opted to use multiple techniques in one garment creating unbelievable visual impact.

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2014

Trend: Couturified

Christopher Kane Fall 2014

Trend: Couturified

Jonathan Saunders Fall 2014

Trend: Couturified

Erdem Fall 2014

Trend: Embellishment

This is another trend we have really seen over the last few seasons and it’s not going anywhere. In fact, it just keeps getting bigger and bolder. Nearly every major collection this week had some form of bling to it. At Mary Katrantzou, pieces were so intricately and cleverly embellished that they looked like big colourful embroidered badges. Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto also seem to have committed themselves to this growing trend in their Fall 2014 collections. All three of these influencers cleverly used some form of appliqués (beading, embroideries or sequins) to add a textural element to an already interesting silhouette.

Peter Pilotto Fall 2014

Trend: Embellishment

Mary Katrantzou Fall 2014

Trend: Colour

Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and Burberry all showed bold and colourful pieces in their collections, breathing new life into familiar shapes. Christopher Kane also followed suit, using neon yellow and pastel pink throughout, while Tom Ford used red as an accent colour to a mostly black collection.

Tom Ford Fall 2014

Trend: Colour

Roksanda Ilincic Fall 2014

Trend: Slouchy pants

Whether cropped or full length, nearly every collection had a version of a men’s style slouchy pant. Often paired with a loafer or flat there is something sexy about this silhouette (although I can bet that nearly every man would argue otherwise). Pringle of Scotland, Topshop and Paul Smith all had their own versions but I have to say the cropped ones were amongst my favourites.

Topshop Unique Fall 2014

Trend: The Pointy shoe

Ladies, pull those pointy pumps back out because Fall 2014 looks like a pump-plenty season. Notice how shoes are often modified every season—just enough to make you feel like you need to buy new ones? Well I have to say the classic, regular, traditional, pointy, basic stiletto looks like it has made a strong comeback. Pringle of Scotland, Jonathan Saunders and Marios Schwab all featured their own take on a basic pointy pump. And for those who favour things more down to earth, we spotted pointy flats on the Fall 2014 runways as well, which were often the product of a collaboration with British designer Nicholas Kirkwood.

Jonathan Saunders Fall 2014

Blue moon

Pale pink continues as a favourite for Spring 2014 with even the typically-strict strict Jean Pierre Bragaza dipping a toe into girl territory, though blue seemed most popular in varying shades—baby at Preen, denim at Holly Fulton, cobalt at David Koma and Topshop in all of the above.

Flora and fauna

Forget Miranda Priestley, designers are going full steam ahead with florals and nature-inspired prints for Spring 2014. At Mulberry, Emma Hill went out with bang-on floral-woven jacquard short suits and floral-appliqued signature tote bags for her last collection as the brand’s creative director. At Matthew Williamson, pink and yellow appliques found themselves on sixties-styled cocktail dresses while butterfly prints made their way down a swishy wideleg pant.

Sheer window

Nip slips seem the thing for Spring 2014. At J.W Anderson, pinched and pleated gauze-like nylon (or was it nylon?) gave way to his frothier side, ofttimes exposing skin whole.

Trapeze

This sixties favourite has been revved up for spring by London’s feminine set. Emilia Wickstead showed long billowing versions of the style in striking bright combos. Temperley’s two-piece version of the style layered magentas in varying brightness over one another.

Slip dresses

The nineties focus has ushered the slip dress back into our consciousness so forcefully that I can barely remember a time when it wasn’t. Topshop Unique’s considerably pared back spring featured two versions of the trend: cropped boho and ankle-grazing print-mixed silk. Under cool girl silk layers, Jonathan Saunders went tie-dye-like with green and blue on a striking peachy number.