FASHION Magazine

See the Antonio Azzuolo Fall 2014 collection »

Tailors tend to breed talented offspring. Dries Van Noten, Domenico Dolce, Emmanuel Ungaro—they’re all cut from families of exacting cloth. Menswear designer Antonio Azzuolo is part of that club, having been raised by two in Montreal. After years in the business (15 in creative roles at Ralph Lauren, Hermès, Gap and Kenneth Cole, and six at the helm of his own bespoke line) he launched womenswear for Fall 2014, bringing old school tailoring techniques into new territory for next season. In his post-show Q&A with ROM curator Alexandra Palmer last night in Toronto, Azzuolo spoke of adaptation—something he’s clearly done in this collection. His full canvas method (all the handiwork goes on below the surface, allowing for the outside to maintain perfect shape) was applied to both men’s and women’s belted coats. Wool culottes were worn overtop loose-fitting trousers for understated statement making effect. Meanwhile, a sixties mod feel was woven through, with graphic alpaca sweaters done in magenta, maroon and white with unfinished hems which were layered over perfect white shirts.

See the Kaelen Fall 2014 collection »

Pretty, ruffled and pink all over—it was clear from Kaelen Haworth’s first look out the gate that this would not be the slouchy, downtown, all-black-everything Kaelen girl we were used to seeing. Though Haworth was quick to point out, “it’s a pant suit ruffle, so it’s not a 100 per cent lady ruffle.”

Indeed, the “not extremely feminine” designer made a point of countering each surprising new flounce of femininity (eyelets, ruffles, pink!), with a touch of grounding masculinity (squid ink dye, menswear fabric, a flash of silver zipper). And for Kaelen fans not ready to commit to full-on femininity, many of the extraneous frills, ruffles and peplums zipper off for a slightly toned down take on the girlier original.

If Bellavance designers Nolan Bellavance and Ava Hama had told us that of-the-moment pop star Lorde was the beauty inspiration for their Fall 2014 show, we’d make no objections. At last night’s presentation at The ShOws, dark lipstick à la the New Zealand singer’s signature look was the biggest beauty statement. “She’s kind of this girl that’s breaking out from the mould—so instead of that classically beautiful like bare face, she’s gonna go strong, deep with a colour that you’re not naturally drawn to,” said Cover Girl makeup pro Veronica Chu of the deep-plum lipstick with a distinct brown undertone.

See the Steven Tai Fall 2014 collection »

Designer Steven Tai has always put an emphasis on textiles and working with technological innovations that can be carried into everyday wear. This helps explain why his previous collections have included pops of silicone created by hand in his London studio, elaborate embroidery and artistic collaborations. This young man treats fashion as if it was a science lab and, if it takes two months to craft a showpiece for his runway presentation, so be it. Tai’s knack for the novel has put him on the radars of Vogue, Style.com and a local darling, sold at Holt Renfrew.

But absent from Steven Tai’s Fall 2014 presentation Tuesday night at The ShOws (one week in advance of the official World MasterCard Fashion Week) were the geek-chic pieces of past. In their place are pleated pants and tennis-like skirts, stacked embroidered blooms that recall Prada’s now signature flowers, lurex tweed and jacquard fringe. As moderator Alexandra Palmer put it during her post-show Q&A with Tai, his third official collection seemed, “actually kind of normal.” Of course this was meant in a good way, Tai’s work is now closer to next wave luxury than mad scientist gone gorgeous.

See the Bellavance Fall 2014 collection »

By the way Bellavance designers Nolan Bellavance and Ava Hama described the rigorous military education inspiration behind their latest collection, you could almost be led to believe they themselves had been sent away to the school of hard knocks as kids (for the record, they met studying at Parsons in New York). Tough elements such as stiff raw denim with hand-distressed seams cut into a structured dress, trench and matching skirt and jacket combo, and a graphic chain link pointillist pattern screen printed on silks alluded to the severity and rigidity of learning institutions. Swooping fabric panels also made the grade, a smart play on graduation sashes. But while strictness may have been the initial jumping off point, rules are made to be broken, and rebellion is inevitable under such restraint. The chain link became fragmented when the volume and movement in the pleated pieces broke their continuity. Mohair on merino had a tattooed effect, several hems were left unfinished and peekaboo flashes of skin under apron-like shapes gave way to a little sex appeal. It may be several years since these two have been out of school, but they’re certainly on the honour roll for fall 2014.

See the street style shots from Toronto »

On the second day of pre-fashion week aka The Shows, Toronto’s best were out in full force to support last night’s talented twosome, Steven Tai and Jeremy Laing. October’s pleasant temps seem to be allowing for pleasant outfit pairings (read: no bulky layers or cold weather grimaces), which we obviously dig. Style Panel’s Danielle Roche pre-empted Spring 2014’s shine trend in a boxy copper animal print, which was layered, overtop a pleated black leather mini and op art print turtleneck. Caillianne Beckerman, Samantha Beckerman and all star model Liisa Winkler were feeling the current plaid penchant, weaving the old standby within matching designer-clad outfits. Meanwhile team Holt Renfrew had the sophisticated clan colours downpat, with Blaire Borins, Jennifer Daubney, Kimberly Grabel and Moira Wright posing in co-ordinating neutrals. Until next time folks, which by our count is just over a week away.

See the Bellavance Spring 2014 collection »

Since its launch fresh out of Parsons less than two years ago, Bellavance has been doing the fashion version of kicking ass and taking names. The New York-based label with an all-important Can Con connection (co-designer Nolan Bellavance grew up on a farm near Red Deer, Alberta) won MADE’s first young designer award in 2012, which amped the duo with support of Parsons alum like Antonio Berardi and Roopal Patel. Currently, Bellavance is stocked at cool kid haven Opening Ceremony, which is a feat in and of itself.

For their sophomore collection, Bellavance and co-designer Ava Hama went classic sportswear, naming Claire McCardell, founder of the all American look, as their muse. It was all about elevated simplicity, from the humble cotton dobby used on a peach and cornflower blue day dress to the classic robe, elevated for night with the use of ribbed silk and black trimming. The understated pieces benefited from last night’s intimate presentation, which capped off with a fabrication drilldown by Dr. Alexandra Palmer of the ROM. So too, did the duo’s mention of stripes, a repeated motif in the collection also rooted in sportswear history and perfect for another spin come Spring 2014.

See the Calla Spring 2014 collection »

Sun, sand and ‘90s surfer babes were the retro cool inspiration for the Calla Spring 2014 collection at day one of The Shows in Toronto. Models in beach-friendly digs, from neon coral frocks with chunky scuba zippers to Body Glove-esque swimsuits with sexy scooped backs, walked down the runway to the cheerful, appropriately laid back Beach Boys tunes. Crop tops, skater dresses and wild-style baseball caps added a whiff of Venice Beach skateboard culture to the Californian surf aesthetic. Our favourite looks saw slouchy pullovers paired with feminine skirts, either short and sweet or full with couture-like cuts.

As always with designer Calla Haynes‘ collections, prints and fabrics were highlights. Alcantara—an ultra luxe, ultra thin Italian fabric—appeared on a flirty frock, slouchy board shorts and an oversized moto-inspired jacket. Customized with a watery Japanese calligraphy print and crinkled to create a casual well-worn effect, Haynes called the print “Shonan” after the famous Japanese surf town. Meanwhile, we saw paper tweeds (created by Malhia Kent, the French mill that produces haute couture tweeds for Chanel) in a structured boho poncho that calls to mind the beach bum style of Australian surf brand Kuta Lines, and in a crop top and high-waisted skirt combo worthy of Cher Horowitz. Long live ‘90s nostalgia!

New York, London, Milan and Paris may host countless (and mind-blowing!) shows during September, but with October quickly approaching our minds are already prepping for Toronto Fashion Week. When it comes to saving the best for last, our city is wrapping up the Spring 2014 season with stellar home-grown talent.

The packed Toronto schedule includes both The ShOws and World MasterCard Fashion Week, both of which are sure to show spring collections that will have us wishing we could just sleep through winter. Need more intel? Read on—we’ll be updating this guide to Toronto Fashion Week Spring 2014 as the details roll in.

Jump to: World MasterCard Fashion Week | The ShOws

See what’s inside the bags of the brains involved with fashion week »

Packing a bag for Toronto Fashion Week should be considered some sort of art. The contents of the bag must be able to transport the owner from work, to shows, to more shows, and to after-parties, therefore having the essentials on hand is, well, essential. This week, we’ve taken a look inside some of the organizers of rogue fashion week, including The ShOws mastermind Paola Fullerton, and three-member team spearheading The Collections: Dwayne Kennedy, Brian A. Richards and Mel Ashcroft. We’ve also snuck a look into Caitlin Power’s bag—the Calgary-born designer showed her collection as a part of the Mercedes-Benz Start Up competition at World MasterCard Fashion Week last night. The contents of these It bags (which range from Chloé to Chloé Comme Parris!) have one thing in common: they all serve as fashion week survival kits.

View Jeremy Laing’s Spring 2013 collection »

Jeremy Laing knows what’s up for Spring 2013 and his collection shown last night on the final day of The ShOws was undeniable proof. With details straight out of the ‘90s (think cargo pockets, tear-away buttons and cornrows), the collection of neutrals was layer upon layer of glory.

Laing found the season’s sweet spot—the spot where five layers are none too many and where a metallic slate button down looks downright staple. Mid-way through the show, a two-tone grey and white button down dress (ahem, the new tear-away?) helped it reach a sporty high. Other than the sporty slouch that Jeremy Laing perfected, the collection mixed in structure and many pieces had a sort of body armour vibe with cut-outs, exposed zippers and thick fabrics. Laing used beaded shoulder pad-esque pieces connected by thin black straps to create a sultry yet refined neckline like that of a futuristic sport playing goddess.

See the looks from Jean-Pierre Braganza’s show!

Way East at Toronto’s Andrew Richards Design, London-based designer Jean-Pierre Braganza returned home to present his third show as part of the ongoing offsite effort The ShOws. Once again, he played master of geometry, only this time, offsetting his zigzagging prints with loose flowing material that created a big city babe vibe.

The embodiment of Braganza’s sharp/slouch play was a three-piece tuxedo suit in which crisp lines at the top and flowing loose pants at the tips elongated models bodies (as if they needed the help). In Jean-Pierre Braganza’s signature style, he used asymmetry to create unique lines and shapes in every single look that walked down the runway.