FASHION Magazine

With 16 years worth of shows at Toronto fashion week under his belt, David Dixon has reason to celebrate. In honour of this milestone, his Fall 2011 show was preceded by a “Sweet Sixteen” retrospective of design highlights from his career. Set to a slideshow of family photos and monologues that served as inspiration for his past collections, this intro served as a reminder why Dixon remains one of the most celebrated designers in Canada. The main collection opened to the sounds of a bustling airplane, signaling that we were en route to Indonesia for an “Escape to Jakarta,” the designer’s theme for this season. “My love for the exotic and the South Pacific became my mental escape while designing this collection,” said Dixon. Flowing maxi dresses in vibrant animal and tribal prints swooshed down the runway alongside a dreamy selection of LBDs, while poppy red dresses in Italian matte jersey provided a fiery alternative to basic black. Leather polka dot georgette and diamond appliqué gowns were red carpet ready and a laser-cut clover bolero was the perfect cover-up for a cool evening breeze. We can’t wait to see where Dixon’s creations take us next year, and for another 16 after that.

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At the Lucian Matis show on Wednesday evening, the first word that came to mind was big: big shoulders, big knits, big hair, big embellishments. And yes, there was even a big marquee sign that spelled out “Lucian Matis” in bright lights, should you happen to forget where you were. Held off-site at the Design Exchange in Toronto’s financial district, the show continued in the vein of Matis’s signature ornate style. Black bodysuits with oversized shoulders and exquisite bronze beading held their own against bulbous chunky knit sweaters. Stunning beading adorned Balmain-style, pointy-shouldered blazers and bedazzled the derrières of a few onesies. Matis’s streamlined gowns stole the show, including one with a floor-length skirt covered in ombré tassels, as well as a gold teacup dress with black beaded shoulders. While the collection was at once exquisite, extravagant and elegant, its saturated looks could have used a bit more of one thing: editing.

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By Corinne Perez-Abergel

Montreal based jewelry designer Camilla Jorgensen said, “we are thinking about our future and our past” when describing her latest Micalla collection. Seventies Hollywood glamour set the stage for Jorgensen’s collection as models strutted down the runway to Jazz music in sexy LBDs with their hair tousled in short blonde bobs pinned at the side.  The perfect palette for the jewelry to shine, and did it ever.  The models were draped in jewels, everything from bold statement necklaces to Swarovski encrusted chokers with chains oozing from them. The most memorable by far were the fringe-like crystal harnesses. I was inspired by Camilla’s ability to make the jewellery the entire focus of the outfit, at times resembling actual pieces of clothing. And really, who doesn’t want to be draped crystals?

Canadian fashion mainstays, Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse, presented their fall 2011 collection to a packed house of steadfast fans at day three of LG Fashion Week. Pleasantly surprising us from the get-go, bits of bold neon colour were introduced into what is usually a fairly muted collection, with a series of gorgeous ethnic-geometric silk prints. Continuing the cavalcade of colour, abstract florals a la Dries Van Noten took their turn on the catwalk, wowing us in vibrant cobalt turquoise and more subtle watercolour jacquards. While we could take or leave the series of black and charcoal textile separates, a starry-skied metallic bathrobe coat (the sleeveless version too) is tops on our can’t-live-without list.

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A few days ago, as my alarm-radio clicked on, I awoke to the distinctive sound of Jay Manuel’s voice. He was describing his humble fashion beginnings as head honcho of his Scarborough high school fashion show. Last night, the hometown boy did his alma mater proud, and Sears has taken notice⎯Jay equals cache. He brought a slick, polished feel, lacking from the Attitude collections of seasons past, as well as a serious dose (and strong nod) to the international designer runways. Strutting out in a tailored, sharp shouldered, white pantsuit, Yasmin Warsame led the way for a collection dominated by work-wear separates, a clever move for the Sears customer. What began as an ode to black and white, quickly turned to a lesson in colour theory with on-trend combos of eggplants, pumpkins, periwinkles and teals. My must have? The saturated cerulean coat sure to inject a little “Attitude” into my fall fashion lineup.

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Joe Fresh may be beloved for its cheap chic take on trends born by high-end labels, but its models could have easily passed for trust fund babes with their polished blowouts and perfect complexions—a look created to tie-in with the brand’s ’70s-inspired collection. After blow drying hair and creating a clean middle part, L’Oréal Paris’ Lead Hair Artist Eric del Monaco added movement by taking pieces of the hair and wrapping the mid-shaft around a large-barrel iron, keeping the ends straight by holding it with his fingers. Continuing the pared down beauty theme, Lead Makeup Artist Eddie Malter stuck with a neutral palette. After applying a wash of gold shadow on the eyes, he created a strong brow to anchor the look and swept a shimmery champagne shadow along the top of the cheekbones to brighten skin. Malter finished the look by applying a creamy nude lipstick on the lips.

Topknots⎯the unofficial hairstyle of last summer⎯are alive and kickin’. It’s perched high on the head of the Pink Tartan lady for fall 2011 to be exact. “There’s lots of military pieces, so we wanted a hard/soft aspect to the woman,” explained L’Oreal Paris’ Lead Hair Artist Eric del Monaco. After spritzing hair with water, he made a high pony, split it into two sections and twisted one into a loop and wrapped the other one around the base. Creative director Veronica Chu called the style “organized chaos” saying it was “contained and controlled”. Surely the inescapable mist of Elnett that seemed to hang in a cloud over the area ensured that. Lead Makeup Artist Eddie Malter gave models a hard edge with a dramatic dark eye done in black shadow that extended out and was purposely done not to look “clean” and avoided mascara altogether. He used his backstage MVP product, Wear Infinite Eye Shadow in “Morning Light” to add highlights down the nose and on cheekbones and took down brows and lips with a bit of concealer. The final touch was gloss added to the lids right before the girls took to the runway.

Like any good Mimran, Kim Newport truly understands the business of fashion. Always just trendy enough to get the shopping list fantasizing going, but never so much so that she’s off on a limb in the discount bin. Albeit a little derivative of Proenza Schouler’s spring 2008 and/or spring 2010 collections, Pink Tartan’s fall offering was nothing short of pitch-perfect covetability. Part updated-military, part festooned dancer, the show included a series of standouts like the belted utility vests and relaxed button downs over ostrich skirts, the cable knits and a large army printed ballgown. Backstage, Newport called it “couturitarian”. We call it “yes, please!”

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With its debut flagship store opening this spring in The Big Apple and a handful of new flagship stores popping up across Canada, the future continues to look bright for Joe Fresh (and the mastermind behind the label, Joe Mimran, who sported an electric orange scarf at the show). This knock-your-socks-off colour wave lapped into Joe Fresh’s fall 2011 collection too with juicy orange shift dresses and cord belts, crisp blue and rich green outerwear⎯the bracelet length sleeve is back folks, so muster up your inner Jackie O and invest in a pair of elbow length gloves this fall.  Oxford shoes dipped in metallic gold and librarian-chic low heels will keep you a step up for fall, while navy blue knits and camel coloured separates continue the classic sportswear streak.  And when it comes to reciting your accessories vows, a rich cognac-hued tote bag is the one to have and to hold, forever and ever. Amen.

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Even through these last days of bitter frigidity, the fashion flock has managed to come out swinging in the LG Fashion Week wardrobe department. We sent budding photographer Lewis Mirrett to Heritage Court to capture some of the off-runway action and what we ended up with was a completely fresh and colourful take on street style. Check out the best of what he’s snapped so far!

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When I try to digest yesterday’s Chloé Comme Parris show, all that comes to mind is wow wow wow. In their sophomore LG show for fall, sisters Chloé and Parris Gordon mixed understated western elements with a distinctively refined downtown edge. But these aren’t just run-of-the-mill western elements, they are right out of the (Gold Rush) history books… or off the (True Grit) silver screen. Silver belt buckles in multiples adorned tailored jacket shoulders, the waists of bombers and the edges of several poncho-like sweaters. Coattails and the backs of shirtwaists alike appeared as curvilinear outpourings from otherwise structured garments. This is becoming something of a signature for the sisters, who seem to pay special attention to the caboose of things. And the accessories! Crystal shoulder straps and buckled bags added even more it-factor to the show’s offerings.

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