FASHION Magazine

See the Kaelen Fall 2014 collection »

Pretty, ruffled and pink all over—it was clear from Kaelen Haworth’s first look out the gate that this would not be the slouchy, downtown, all-black-everything Kaelen girl we were used to seeing. Though Haworth was quick to point out, “it’s a pant suit ruffle, so it’s not a 100 per cent lady ruffle.”

Indeed, the “not extremely feminine” designer made a point of countering each surprising new flounce of femininity (eyelets, ruffles, pink!), with a touch of grounding masculinity (squid ink dye, menswear fabric, a flash of silver zipper). And for Kaelen fans not ready to commit to full-on femininity, many of the extraneous frills, ruffles and peplums zipper off for a slightly toned down take on the girlier original.

If Bellavance designers Nolan Bellavance and Ava Hama had told us that of-the-moment pop star Lorde was the beauty inspiration for their Fall 2014 show, we’d make no objections. At last night’s presentation at The ShOws, dark lipstick à la the New Zealand singer’s signature look was the biggest beauty statement. “She’s kind of this girl that’s breaking out from the mould—so instead of that classically beautiful like bare face, she’s gonna go strong, deep with a colour that you’re not naturally drawn to,” said Cover Girl makeup pro Veronica Chu of the deep-plum lipstick with a distinct brown undertone.

See the street style from outside Toronto Fashion Week »

Just when the international Fashion Weeks wind down, Canada revs its engines. Last night, the unofficial pre-cursor to Toronto Fashion Week, The ShOws, kicked off with presentations from Bellevance and Steven Tai. As the city’s industry insiders rejoiced in the 24-hour teaser of warm weather, light spring jackets in mostly neutral palette of blues, beiges and greys were spotted on the street outside the shows. Not wanting to tempt fate however, others layered up, ready for whatever Mother Nature decided to dish out. (Cue today’s blizzard.)

Canadian model Liisa Winkler brought a little bit of rural chic to the city, donning a mid-length lightweight black jacket, paired with a denim ruffled midi skirt and black Chelsea boots with socks. This is how you country in the big city, folks. Holt Renfrew’s Brittany Barkwell and Blaire Borins looked perfectly chic. Barkwell opted for a matching patterned top and trousers finished with lace up heels and a wide collared camel coat, while Borins looked cozy a fuzzy knee-length coat finished with big buttons, adding a raspberry red bag for a well placed pop of colour.

See the Steven Tai Fall 2014 collection »

Designer Steven Tai has always put an emphasis on textiles and working with technological innovations that can be carried into everyday wear. This helps explain why his previous collections have included pops of silicone created by hand in his London studio, elaborate embroidery and artistic collaborations. This young man treats fashion as if it was a science lab and, if it takes two months to craft a showpiece for his runway presentation, so be it. Tai’s knack for the novel has put him on the radars of Vogue, Style.com and a local darling, sold at Holt Renfrew.

But absent from Steven Tai’s Fall 2014 presentation Tuesday night at The ShOws (one week in advance of the official World MasterCard Fashion Week) were the geek-chic pieces of past. In their place are pleated pants and tennis-like skirts, stacked embroidered blooms that recall Prada’s now signature flowers, lurex tweed and jacquard fringe. As moderator Alexandra Palmer put it during her post-show Q&A with Tai, his third official collection seemed, “actually kind of normal.” Of course this was meant in a good way, Tai’s work is now closer to next wave luxury than mad scientist gone gorgeous.

See the Bellavance Fall 2014 collection »

By the way Bellavance designers Nolan Bellavance and Ava Hama described the rigorous military education inspiration behind their latest collection, you could almost be led to believe they themselves had been sent away to the school of hard knocks as kids (for the record, they met studying at Parsons in New York). Tough elements such as stiff raw denim with hand-distressed seams cut into a structured dress, trench and matching skirt and jacket combo, and a graphic chain link pointillist pattern screen printed on silks alluded to the severity and rigidity of learning institutions. Swooping fabric panels also made the grade, a smart play on graduation sashes. But while strictness may have been the initial jumping off point, rules are made to be broken, and rebellion is inevitable under such restraint. The chain link became fragmented when the volume and movement in the pleated pieces broke their continuity. Mohair on merino had a tattooed effect, several hems were left unfinished and peekaboo flashes of skin under apron-like shapes gave way to a little sex appeal. It may be several years since these two have been out of school, but they’re certainly on the honour roll for fall 2014.

See Rita’s top nail trends for Fall 2014 »

Now that fashion month has come to a close, one thing is clear: the nail polish. (See what we did there?) While bright colours and crazy patterns have dominated runways season after season, this year it seems that nail trends are starting to lean in a much more minimalist direction. Helping lead this neutral nail charge is Essie Canada’s lead nail artist, Rita Remark. She’s not only responsible for all the upcoming nail looks at World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto, but just returned from doing nails at NYFW for designers such as DKNY and Jill Stuart. So who better to advise on the colours, textures and top coats you’ll want to wear come fall, as well as what’s on trend right now? Read on for Rita’s backstage intel—and if you’re like us, you’ll most likely be reaching for a nail polish bottle before you get to the end!




See the “A Dozen Girls” photos here »

A new era dawned on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, with Nicolas Ghesquière’s first collection for Louis Vuitton rebalancing the high-design equilibrium offset when he ditched Balenciaga back in November 2012. For Ghesquière devouts, the 48-look collection of pared-back cool girl clothes was like lifeblood. For him, I imagine it was the sartorial echo of Kelis’s sarcasm-filled anthem “Copy Cat” (“Oh come here, copycat! You’re my puppet, you know I love it! You could do it, I did it already”). You know, the Parisian way of saying “Step off, b*tch.”

There’s no comparing yesterday’s show with Marc Jacobs’ glittering spring ode to showgirls, and while choosing between the two would be fashion’s Sophie’s Choice, it looks like someone did: Jeurgen Teller. The German photographer long associated with Marc Jacobs ads turned down the Spring 2014 campaign starring Miley Cyrus, and instead shot an off the cuff lookbook for Ghesquière’s Vuitton collection entitled “A Dozen Girls.” The photographs feature a sampling of the collection on models including longstanding Ghesquière favourite Liya Kebede. Like the show, the photographs are, in a word, flawless.

See the Fall 2014 must-haves »

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography via Instagram/Delfina Delettrez

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

1/10

Miu Miu Fall 2014

Something glitter

Saint Laurent and Miu Miu poured it on. Choose a coat, a dress, a top or a shoe. The more sparkle and shine, the better.

2/10

Balenciaga Fall 2014 Bags

A structured tote bag

Balenciaga showed models carrying multiple shoppers.

3/10

Stella McCartney Fall 2014

A knit pant

If you’re brave buy the matching top and wear the full look head to toe like it was shown at Stella McCartney.

4/10

Delfina Delettrez Fall 2014

A single statement earring

Look for a drop that’s dripping in charms like the ones at Louis Vuitton, Céline and Delfina Delettrez.

5/10

Hermes Fall 2014

A tailored suit

This instantly pulled together outfit is practically dressing for dummies. Take your cue from the Hermès and make sure the tailoring is impeccable

6/10

Chanel Fall 2014 Shoe

A tailored suit

This instantly pulled together outfit is practically dressing for dummies. Take your cue from the Hermès and make sure the tailoring is impeccable

7/10

Sacai Fall 2014

A fur coat

Shearling, coloured or leopard printed, real or faux, invest in a little hot fuzz. Sacai showed stunning spliced versions.

8/10

Celine Fall 2014 Boot

A chunky soled boot

Céline‘s Doc Marten-esque clunky soles were the perfect foil for the long loose pants.

9/10

Valentino Fall 2014

A sixties-inspired A-line dress

A shift shape that bells out from the body is key like the diamond-patched minis at Valentino.

10/10

Lanvin Fall 2014 Shoe

A pointed flat

The ultimate day to night shoe, this style has legs. Lanvin crafted a lace-less oxford version.

Paris Fashion Week came to a close for Fall 2014 yesterday with the last step strutted down the Hermès runway. With hotly anticipated designer debuts (for the record, Nicolas Ghesquiere knocked it out of the park at Louis Vuitton), celebrity-studded front rows (Rihanna made the rounds), splashy parties and a little luxe grocery shopping thrown in for good measure, it was a week filled with memorable moments. As FASHION‘s market editor, my eye is constantly scanning for the must-have items we’ll want to fill our closets with come fall. In that spirit, here is my Paris-inspired edit of the top 10 pieces to add to your shopping list when ushering in the next season.

See all the street style from Paris here »

You would think that after almost a month of Fashion Weeks with intense schedules, endless fashion shows and plenty of travel time, the fashion elite would be running out of things to wear. But the latest batch of street style shots from outside Paris Fashion Week depict anything but. Some of our favourite street style stars were out in full force, wearing their best and brightest, and enjoying all the fashion frivolities.  Clearly the playful vibes from Chanel’s fashion-show-turned-shopping-centre were infectious.

Besties and fellow editors, Giovanna Battaglia and Anna Dello Russo hammed it up for the cameras atop concrete bollards. Just how ADR got up there without rumpling her floor-length Spring 2014 Valentino, we’ll never know. In a coy twist on a virginal long sleeved lace dress, Kate Foley wore a strip of bright red gaffe tape strategically placed as a pseudo censor bar straight from the Preen Fall 2014 show. Several models fresh off of the Chanel runway proudly showed off their free swag courtesy of the label’s shopping aisles. (We’re more than a little jealous of Anya Ziourova’s Chanel doormat…)

See the Miu Miu Fall 2014 front row »

As Paris Fashion Week wraps up today, the international fashion circuit comes to a close. But as with all good things, the arguably best shows were saved for last. Or rather the most star studded front rows. At this morning’s Miu Miu Fall 2014 show, every pretty young thing turned up to watch the runway; even Jared Leto and his perfectly coiffed hair made an appearance!

Prada/Miu Miu It girl and newly minted Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o was wore a Spring 2014 ruched pink skirt and cropped jacket with an embellished collar in a deep raspberry shade that complemented her skin tone flawlessly. After reportedly introducing herself to all of her fellow front row-ers (so darn polite!), she pulled out some thick framed tortoise shell glasses to enjoy the show. Bad eyesight be damned. Fellow Miu Miu frontwoman Elle Fanning kept things prim and proper, removing her light blue Miu Miu jacket to reveal a yellow houndstooth sleeveless top and matching blue pleated skirt as she sat for the show.

See the latest from Paris Fashion Week Fall 2014 »

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography by Peter Stigter

Photography via Instagram/FashionCanada

1/5

Chanel Fall 2014

1. The top spot goes to Chanel, no question. Everything from the faux shipping boxes that we sat on, to the shopping carts, themed accessories and Supercentre pop soundtrack had us eating out of the palm of Karl’s hand. Takeaway boxes of gummy candies in the shape of No. 5 perfume bottles, tweed jackets and camellias were icing on the cake.

2/5

Alexander McQueen Fall 2014

2. Last night’s Alexander McQueen presentation left everyone blown away without distracting from the complexity of the clothing. As Bjork’s “Bachelorette” played, the models walked through a barren landscape with billowing smoke that set off the dark, Icelandic inspiration.
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2014

3/5

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2014

3. Jean Paul Gaultier is never one to shy away from upping the ante on presentation value. Decking his show staff in silvery one-piece spacesuits was an easy way to get into the theme from the get-go.

4/5

LAURENT

4. Hedi Slimane already knows how to draw a crowd—the lineup to get into his Saint Laurent show space snaked down the street and around the corner. A custom commissioned soundtrack, blinding stadium lights and massive gold bars that crisscrossed the runway will only have us coming back for more.

5/5

Charlotte Olympia Fall 2014

5. Special mention goes to Charlotte Olympia, who transformed her entire showroom space into a Far East fantasy. Black lacquered bamboo chairs, carved cabinets, paper lanterns, incense and a full tea service laid her shoe and handbag message out loud and clear.

Over lunch today with the team from Chanel‘s Canadian press office, we couldn’t help rehashing the extravagant spectacle we’d just been lucky enough to witness from the front row. The full grocery store set up included fresh vegetable and cheese stands, along with aisles and aisles of canned goods, cleaning products, cupboard staples and bathroom essentials. More than 400 different products had been assembled and branded with the double Cs and Karl’s witty bon mots (only Chanel can get away with “sacs plus belle” garbage bags and 50% markup posters). This house in particular, has always led the pack with its devotion to creating a lasting impression through a full sensory experience. More and more designers are jumping on the bandwagon, hoping to have editors, buyers and shoppers create emotional attachments to their brands. In a week devoted to clothes, theatrics aren’t necessary, but a fun way to stand out from the pack and further promote your seasonal message. Here are this week’s top shows that pushed the envelope with memorable antics:

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