FASHION Magazine

Nail art’s not quite dead, but the baroque period is definitely over, as these five fresh-from-the-runways trends show. We’re in a minimalist phase, embracing subtle detailing, a more subdued palette and considerably less sparkle.

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See more photos of Prabal Gurung for Sally Hansen Fall 2013 »

On the heels of his recent capsule collection with Target, Prabal Gurung is quickly becoming known as a designer who embraces collaborations. His latest –and most prolific—venture comes in the form of nail polish, specifically with Sally Hansen. For a sixth consecutive season, Gurung has worked with Sally Hansen to create new nail polish shades to be used on the runway—and then later sold at retail.

Three new shades were used this week for the Prabal Gurung Fall 2013 presentation. The runway show, which had a strong military feel, was complemented with nail art that reflected the dark colour palette of the collection. The new Sally Hansen colours include “Loden Green” (olive), “Night Watch” (navy), and “Coat of Arms” (gold). For the runway show, manicurist Jin Soon Choi used the three new shades together by layering them and creating a sharp triangle shape that extended from the moon, meant to reflect the unique style of Prabal Gurung.

It’s a nail art–filled world, but Jin Soon Choi isn’t buying it. Manhattan’s favourite manicurist launches her own lacquer line, and Celia Ellenberg makes an appointment.

See Jin Soon Choi’s nail polish collection »

“I hate filing,” says Jin Soon Choi, seated for a pedicure. The nail industry veteran with nearly 25 years of polishing experience winces as an aesthetician at her Upper East Side salon drags an emery board across her well-maintained toes. It was her first bombshell of the day; the second followed shortly thereafter. “High fashion doesn’t go with nail art,” she deadpans, thus denouncing the abstract expressionist movement that has taken over the backstage nail game for the past four-plus seasons (never mind the pink, silver-trimmed manicures at Chanel’s Fall couture presentation in July).

In our DIY Nails series, we take the average manicure to the next level by including an element of nail art. Previously, we showed you how to master the subtle blue-on-black gradient done by CND at Jen Kao’s Spring 2012 show. Today it’s all about the slim silhouette nail that Jin Soon Choi created for […]

The post DIY Nails: Prabal Gurung slim silhouette nail Spring 2012 appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

The matte magenta mouths at Prabal Gurung were gorgeous at first glance, but look a little closer, and they were blackened in the center. Since the designer was inspired by Japanese photographer Araki’s shots of exotic blooms (as well as aggressive-looking nudies, we just discovered while Googling him), he asked makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury to create the illusion of “this orchid that was sort of coming out of the lips.” To do that, she used M.A.C. Pro Process Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil to slightly overdraw the lips “like they’ve been kissing,” while MAC Pro Pigments in “Burgundy,” “Fuschia,” and “Black” provided the slightly ombre effect to mimic the flower. Cheekbones were contoured for “slight definition and structure” with cream bronzer. Next, silver grey shadow was stroked across the sockets of the eyes, and Strobe Cream was added on top for a gleam. To create highlights, Luna Cream Color Base was blended in a C shape around the temple and eyes and a lick of mascara and gelled up brows finished the look. On nails, Jin Soon Choi used Sally Hansen’s “Loves Me Not,” a dark purple with subtle glitter, as the main tone “to make a strong statement” edged by “Lacy Lilac” “to show a soft side.”

Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s love affair with metallics continues. At Doo Ri, he created a face that was “very nude,” he said. “We’re just playing with texture.” After matting out the T-zone, he used M.A.C. Metal X Cream Shadow in “Fusion Gold,” launching in the spring, all around the eyes, hitting the brow, extending it to the temples and onto the cheekbones. On cheeks, he used a matte peach colour “as a contour, not a blush—that would be too girly” and lips were treated to a “slightly beigey, peachy pink colour” called “Innocence Beware.” To keep his glowy goddess effect discreet, he left lashes bare. “And I promise, it’s not because I wanted to be lazy” he said. Manicurist Jin Soon Choi coated nails in one coat of Zoya’s “Helen,” a nude with a subtle shimmer.