FASHION Magazine
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Items: Is Fashion Modern? Curates All of Fashion’s Historic Must-Haves
A plain white T-shirt isn’t usually the kind of thing that gets put on display, but this year, the basic crewneck will get a piece of the spotlight as one of the star features in a new exhibition at The Museum of Modern Art in New York City. Items: Is Fashion Modern? (on display until January […]
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The Suit: A look back at the smouldering Le Smoking
See the tuxedo suit on the Spring 2013 runways »
Sometimes a woman feels like puttin’ on the Ritz. Whether it’s worn by Marlene Dietrich, Bianca Jagger or Rihanna, a tuxedo suit has the power to ignite a room faster than any little black dress. With its sharp lines, classic appeal and feminine details—a frilly shirt here, a rhinestone bow-tie there—it’s little wonder that fashion houses like Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent and Ermanno Scervino have reimagined this iconic eveningwear look for Spring 2013.
The first haute couture tuxedo suit—a black velvet pantsuit with a matching vest and a white shirt with ruffled cuffs—was designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966. Dubbed Le Smoking, this gender-bending look instantly caught fire, and soon afterward the designer launched his ready-to-wear label, Rive Gauche, with more accessibly priced smoking suits. The timing couldn’t have been better, since the second wave of the women’s emancipation movement marched into the history books that same decade. Power dressing after dark was now an exercise in equal opportunity.
When YSL took his final runway bow in 2002, he had played on countless variations of this signature ensemble in his 45-year career. “Fashions come and go, but style is forever,” he once said. May the tuxedo suit always burn bright.
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Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013: Tuxes from Haider Ackermann, Dior and Givenchy, the return of shorts and more trend intel from this weekend
From left: Givenchy, Dior and Haider Ackermann Spring 2013. Photography by Peter Stigter See more pictures from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013 »
This is an Important Trend Bulletin from Paris. Spring 2013 will be known as the season of the tux. Variations on Le Smoking opened Lanvin, Dior and Givenchy—a major signifier since eveningwear is usually reserved for last part of a show. And you can pretty much bet we’ll be seeing tuxedoes tonight when Hedi Slimane unveils his first collection for the now-renamed Saint Laurent Paris.
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FASHION plates: Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking look
By Jordan Porter When thinking about the fashion greats, Yves Saint Laurent is one of the first to come to mind. Inspired by Morocco, Mondrian, and so much more, the designer’s influence is still heavily felt throughout the industry. YSL: L’Amour Fou, the documentary focusing on Saint Laurent’s private life (out on DVD next month), has got us thinking more about his personal style though. Even though he was responsible for dressing style icons such as Catherine Deneuve, we think the designer was an icon in his own right. It’s also fitting that in 1966 Saint Laurent introduced the androgynous Le Smoking tuxedo, putting women in the traditional garb of men. Flip through our favourite boyish picks and see how to do menswear in true Saint Laurent style.