FASHION Magazine

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For his Spring 2012 presentation, Montreal’s fetish designer Denis Gagnon switched gears from his usual stoic strut to a playful prance. Creative mise-en-scene by master Dick Walsh in the ultra-luxe environs of Birks jewellery store saw exuberant smiling models whizzing through a rotating doorway and parading before the camera pit before dramatically shimmying up and down the aisles as if searching for a runaway Pomeranian. All the while, a vintage French soundtrack added a retro feel to the “Marlene Dietrich meets Laura Ashley” look. One model looked ready for a game of tennis in her white sneakers and strapless drop-waisted silk jumper that was belted just above the chest—tennis, that is, in Gagnon’s universe. Despite the show’s Holly Golightly-like optimism, Gagnon’s cutesy floral separates never strayed too from his familiar avant-garde vibe, which surfaced here and there in black and white dominatrix detailing. After the gender-bending finale where the bride and groom shared a sweet kiss, nobody argued that 11 a.m. was too early for Champagne!

The anticipation for Denis Gagnon was palpable and sneaking early into the show’s venue, the Birks store in downtown Montreal, was my breaking point. High Versaille-esque ceilings and rows of glass-encased jewels persisted knowledge that Monsieur Gagnon’s show was the one to see. The Birks staff kitchen upstairs doubled as the show’s hair and makeup studio but, moments after I stepped off the freight elevator, stylist Denis Binet said to me, “Hair is natural, it’s nothing”. His idea of nothing really meant perfectly placed hair-ties and carefree fly-aways that looked more careful to me. Final touches of rich merlot-red lips were applied to a dozen or so youthful models, who all wore clean dewy faces and a nonappearance of mascara and blush. By blending an orange-red and a blue-red together, Amelie Ducharme improvised deeply seductive lips against otherwise virginal features and rivalled the aristocracy of the adornments downstairs.

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I really can’t think of a better way to start Day 2 of Montreal Fashion Week than at a cocktail. This year, instead of a traditional runway show, design sisters Claudia and Sabrina Barilà showcased their Spring 2012 collection by inviting media peeps to watch their look book photo shoot, styled by Cary Tauben. Models posed at each side of a triangular backdrop, flipping their crimped bouffantes from time to time. Each year, Sabrina, the design half of the duo, seems to venture into new territory, and this time around the look was sultry-preppy princess. The shirt dress was key, with the same cut appearing in different fabrics and patterns such as silk, chambray, Laura Ashley-like floral, and multi-hued pinstripes; as well as variations including a bare-shoulder cut-out style and a loose tunic version with a Mao collar.

Just shy of a traditional wingtip and meant to hover somewhere between European- and Asian-inspired looks, makeup artist Sebastien Tardif’s eye for the Martin Lim Spring 2012 is so fresh, so clean, so… spring! “The liner has a clean edge instead of coming to a point,” Tardiff told me backstage before the show. It’s a lift rather than an eye extension, with a bit of the graphic liner we loved at Marc Jacobs and Dolce & Gabbana for fall.