FASHION Magazine

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For his Spring 2012 presentation, Montreal’s fetish designer Denis Gagnon switched gears from his usual stoic strut to a playful prance. Creative mise-en-scene by master Dick Walsh in the ultra-luxe environs of Birks jewellery store saw exuberant smiling models whizzing through a rotating doorway and parading before the camera pit before dramatically shimmying up and down the aisles as if searching for a runaway Pomeranian. All the while, a vintage French soundtrack added a retro feel to the “Marlene Dietrich meets Laura Ashley” look. One model looked ready for a game of tennis in her white sneakers and strapless drop-waisted silk jumper that was belted just above the chest—tennis, that is, in Gagnon’s universe. Despite the show’s Holly Golightly-like optimism, Gagnon’s cutesy floral separates never strayed too from his familiar avant-garde vibe, which surfaced here and there in black and white dominatrix detailing. After the gender-bending finale where the bride and groom shared a sweet kiss, nobody argued that 11 a.m. was too early for Champagne!

The lineup for the outdoor extravaganza Festival Mode & Design Montreal, starting today and running through August 6th, is sure to be a circus of amazing events. And while tonight’s big fashion buzz surrounds Jean Paul Gaultier‘s ready-to-wear show, I’m also in a tizzy over all the local talent.

To really discover the backbone of Montreal street style, here are my five must-see shows that highlight local talent.

1. Montreal Fashion Week highlights
August 3 at 9 p.m.

In case you missed Semaine de la Mode last February, you can see all the fall and winter 2011/12 looks on one stage–and then go shop their looks, which should all be in-store by now. The models are some of Quebec’s most beloved stars, including Francisco Randez, who is the face of JPG’s fragrance, Le Male. Look for my coups de coeur: the sexy femme style of Barilà, avant-garde Denis Gagnon, glittery baubles by Micalla, and Mulcair’s tailored tomboy chic. Also part of the show is the dress by Kwantlen University student Earl Mabaquiao that won the Télio contest. I had the honour of wearing his dress to a posh event this past spring. (Thank you, Earl!)

See more of our festival picks! »

Alas, the age-old question: How to look polished sans effort? Want to walk the line between glamorous and laid back? That’s where Montreal-based label Mulcair comes in. Designed by Parsons grad and former Vena Cava intern, Juliana Bennett, Mulcair is a two-years-young collection of easy breezy separates made to exude sophistication on the fly—literally. The designer cites wind, movement and paramilitary aesthetics as the jumping-off points for spring. Key to the Mulcair DNA is a wearable influx of options, and this season is no different. From sweats to military vests to colourfully draped dresses, Spring 2011 is chock full.

Montreal fashion week is strutting an eager new February time slot (sayonara March!) that puts the city’s Semaine de la mode literally at the forefront of fashion ⎯ starting the 2011 fashion cycle ahead of New York. From a packed schedule of shows, presentations and parties, I’ve distilled my top moments. Here are the highlights.