FASHION Magazine

Couture Week in Paris came to a close today with Azzedine Alaïa showing his first presentation in ages. As we’ve been reporting, the past few days have been marked with highs (Givenchy) and lows (Dior). Regardless, the overall messages of unabashed luxury and attention to detail, inherent to haute dressing, were unanimously heard loud and clear from the handful of couturiers who showed.

It was a success story at Valentino, where designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli made a solid argument for the relevance of couture. The collection was inspired by the flight of the Russian aristocracy after the breakout of revolution, but it sometimes felt more like a medieval fantasy. Sheer, light fabrics, gilded ornamentation, and house signatures such as vibrant red, bows, and lace felt youthful not stuffy, proving that haute couture can still be fresh and exciting when modernized.

At Alaïa, things were more secretive. Showing during an organized fashion week isn’t usually the designer’s style, and today’s presentation wasn’t an occasion to attract endless media attention. Images of the clothing have yet to be released, however Jeanne Beker described strict lines, croc coats, and some pieces in Mongolian lamb. If the move towards exclusivity sounds strange in today’s world of democratized fast fashion, it does make sense in terms of couture’s traditional exclusive nature, only being accessible to a select few. Despite the scant media coverage, big names like Kanye West, Donatella Versace, and Sofia Coppola were in attendance. You can bet there were no members of Vogue present as Alaïa’s feud with Anna Wintour rages on.

After Monday’s Dior mess, we could only hope to have our faith restored by the rest of the collections at Paris Couture Week. And we got our wish with the stellar back-to-back Givenchy and Chanel shows last night.

In his typical presentation format, Riccardo Tisci showcased, yet again, why his designs could more accurately be described as works of art. Ten painstakingly detailed gowns were adorned with feathers, fringe, plumes, pearls, zippers and beading, and ranged in colour from beige to white (a break from the designer’s usual proclivity for darkness). Accented waistlines, bodice cutouts and sheer skirts exemplified Tisci’s own description of his collection as “pure couture.”

Later in the evening, Karl Lagerfeld’s collection for Chanel was showcased against a sparkling, neon-outlined recreation of Place Vendôme at the Grand Palais. In the centre, a glass statue of a suited Coco Chanel held court. A grand showcase of the enduring Chanel suit (shown in navy, fuchsia, grey and black), the collection effortlessly straddled the classicism of the storied house and the modern strides of its current designer. And did we mention that the heels lit up?

Yesterday marked the start of Fall 2011’s Paris Couture Week. Though couture is often luxe and intricate, one house stands apart from the rest in boldness and charisma: Christian Dior. But as the cloud of former Dior designer John Galliano’s ongoing trial still looms over the industry, critics suspected the collection would be different due to his absence of direction. To our surprise, “different” turned to out mean shocking, and frankly disappointing.

The collection was what can only be described as an overzealous attempt to rework what is known as Dior. It seems to be of widespread opinion that from the patterns to the cuts, the ensembles simply did not belong in a couture collection. Overall, there was a vast lack of direction and vision, with colours and materials clashing all over the runway.

At the end of the show, creative director Bill Gaytten took a bow, accompanied by his first studio assistant, Susanna Venegas. He seemed elated to be at the head of the runway, but that’s probably because he didn’t see the giant elephant in the room with the “It Wasn’t Galliano” sign around its neck. Gaytten is already set to take over Galliano’s self-titled label, and though there were suspicions that he’d be taking over for the estranged designer at Dior, those can probably be put to rest. Is Gaytten going straight to the guillotine?

We didn’t think it was possible to rival the buzz around the royal nuptials (or the buzz around the royal visit, either), but this weekend in Europe, a double wedding of sorts pegged supermodel Kate Moss and former Olympic athlete Charlene Wittstock against Kate and Will in the battle for the biggest wedding of the year. Here’s everything you need to know about Mosstock and the wedding we like to call the Monaco Magnificence.

Moss married Jamie Hince of the Kills on July 1, at St. Peter’s Parish in Southrop. Confirming rumours, the supermodel made a controversial decision by wearing a custom-made sheer, bias-cut John Galliano dress, while Hince opted for a couple of Yves Saint Laurent tuxedos by Stefano Pilati. After the ceremony, the couple hosted a weekend-long reception at Moss’s nearby home. The fashionable guests included Anna Wintour, Jude Law, and Daphne Guinness, as well as a surprise appearance by Galliano (what was on his acid tongue, we would love to know). Stella McCartney also designed three outfits for the bride, including the white pantsuit she sported as she left for her honeymoon on a helicopter. Very Bianca Jagger, if we may say so.

Wittstock chose an off the shoulder, beaded Armani Privé gown for her big day. The ceremony took place at the medieval palace of Monaco and was said to be more formal than Moss’s the day before. Naomi Campbell managed to make it to both events, with outfit changes to boot. Karl Lagerfeld, on the other hand, chose to attend the royal affair, as did Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden, French President Nicolas Sarkozy, and Karolina Kurkova. Despite the gossip that Wittstock attempted to leave her fiancé, Prince Albert of Monaco, after learning of his third illegitimate child, the event went on as planned and ended with a heartfelt speech from the prince to his new wife.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past few months, you’d have heard that Kate Moss is set to marry her rock star fiancé, Jamie Hince, tomorrow. In true Moss style, the wedding is sure to break the mould for celebrity weddings. It’s being described as a three-day extravaganza of music, A-list guests, and unparalleled celebrations—and that’s probably an understatement.

Nicknamed “Mosstock” by the tabloids, the wedding’s musical entertainment is to be provided by Snoop Dogg, Carl Barat, Beth Ditto, Iggy Pop, and Dame Shirley Bassey. As if that stage couldn’t get any more entertaining, it’s likely the supermodel herself will serve up some amateur karaoke.

It’s rumoured that close friend John Galliano will design the bride’s gown. As Moss is always one for a well-placed scandal, it’s more or less expected. Recently, the designer’s whereabouts have been unknown, but rumours have been circling that he’s been in New York working on the dress.

Guests are not permitted to bring cameras (or snap photos with their smart phones) as the wedding will be professionally documented by none other than Mario Testino. To top it all off, one of the shots will be featured on the cover of Vogue’s September issue. Mosstock sounds like the be-all-and-end-all to weddings everywhere, but the couple did sign a pre-nuptial agreement. That could appear to foreshadow a grim ending, but who would really be opposed to a second Moss wedding in the future?

Who hasn’t dreamt of living the luxuriously fashionable life of Hollywood grand dame Elizabeth Taylor? From Cleopatra to Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, Taylor dominated the big screen and captured the hearts of her stylish followers. Today, Christie’s officially announced they’ll be launching a landmark series of public exhibitions to display Taylor’s jewelry, fashion, accessories, decorative arts, and memorabilia that will eventually end with their sale.

Beginning in September, the collection will make stops in Moscow, London, Los Angeles, Dubai, Geneva, Paris, and Hong Kong. It’s then set to head to New York City for December 3, where a 10-day exhibition at Rockefeller Center will be followed by four consecutive days of auctions. In keeping with Taylor’s life-long devotion to humanitarian causes, a portion of all proceeds will be donated to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation, which she established in 1991.

Now, who isn’t looking forward to the glamorous-to-end-all-things-glamorous exhibit?

Introducing the first installment of our new daily feature in which we break down the buzziest news story of the day and peg the commentary of fashion’s who’s who against that of our own team. First up: the momentous news about Kim Kardashian’s wedding dress! From a spur-of-the-moment engagement to her five-years-younger NBA paramour, Kris Humphries, to her 20.5-carat diamond ring, the reality queen has been heating it up online with talk of her upcoming nuptials. Now, the Twittersphere and blogs alike are blowing up with word that family friend Vera Wang will design Kardashian’s wedding dress. Who cares? As it seems, everyone!