FASHION Magazine

Canadian fashion mainstays, Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse, presented their fall 2011 collection to a packed house of steadfast fans at day three of LG Fashion Week. Pleasantly surprising us from the get-go, bits of bold neon colour were introduced into what is usually a fairly muted collection, with a series of gorgeous ethnic-geometric silk prints. Continuing the cavalcade of colour, abstract florals a la Dries Van Noten took their turn on the catwalk, wowing us in vibrant cobalt turquoise and more subtle watercolour jacquards. While we could take or leave the series of black and charcoal textile separates, a starry-skied metallic bathrobe coat (the sleeveless version too) is tops on our can’t-live-without list.

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Inspired by our favourite queen of bewitching couture, heiress Daphne Guinness, Duy Nguyen showed a collection made for a woman one part ferocious urban-tribal queen, one part dark and deliciously macabre maven.

Peek-a-boo French lace paneling, leopard cocktail frocks and floor-grazing skirts were worn alongside sharply tailored and artfully draped outerwear and perfectly slouchy trousers. Fur and leopard print dominated the show, with models sporting lace appliqués adorning their face and collarbones to boot⎯definitely a touch that would have been appreciated by Miss Daphne herself.

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A few days ago, as my alarm-radio clicked on, I awoke to the distinctive sound of Jay Manuel’s voice. He was describing his humble fashion beginnings as head honcho of his Scarborough high school fashion show. Last night, the hometown boy did his alma mater proud, and Sears has taken notice⎯Jay equals cache. He brought a slick, polished feel, lacking from the Attitude collections of seasons past, as well as a serious dose (and strong nod) to the international designer runways. Strutting out in a tailored, sharp shouldered, white pantsuit, Yasmin Warsame led the way for a collection dominated by work-wear separates, a clever move for the Sears customer. What began as an ode to black and white, quickly turned to a lesson in colour theory with on-trend combos of eggplants, pumpkins, periwinkles and teals. My must have? The saturated cerulean coat sure to inject a little “Attitude” into my fall fashion lineup.

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Joe Fresh may be beloved for its cheap chic take on trends born by high-end labels, but its models could have easily passed for trust fund babes with their polished blowouts and perfect complexions—a look created to tie-in with the brand’s ’70s-inspired collection. After blow drying hair and creating a clean middle part, L’Oréal Paris’ Lead Hair Artist Eric del Monaco added movement by taking pieces of the hair and wrapping the mid-shaft around a large-barrel iron, keeping the ends straight by holding it with his fingers. Continuing the pared down beauty theme, Lead Makeup Artist Eddie Malter stuck with a neutral palette. After applying a wash of gold shadow on the eyes, he created a strong brow to anchor the look and swept a shimmery champagne shadow along the top of the cheekbones to brighten skin. Malter finished the look by applying a creamy nude lipstick on the lips.

Topknots⎯the unofficial hairstyle of last summer⎯are alive and kickin’. It’s perched high on the head of the Pink Tartan lady for fall 2011 to be exact. “There’s lots of military pieces, so we wanted a hard/soft aspect to the woman,” explained L’Oreal Paris’ Lead Hair Artist Eric del Monaco. After spritzing hair with water, he made a high pony, split it into two sections and twisted one into a loop and wrapped the other one around the base. Creative director Veronica Chu called the style “organized chaos” saying it was “contained and controlled”. Surely the inescapable mist of Elnett that seemed to hang in a cloud over the area ensured that. Lead Makeup Artist Eddie Malter gave models a hard edge with a dramatic dark eye done in black shadow that extended out and was purposely done not to look “clean” and avoided mascara altogether. He used his backstage MVP product, Wear Infinite Eye Shadow in “Morning Light” to add highlights down the nose and on cheekbones and took down brows and lips with a bit of concealer. The final touch was gloss added to the lids right before the girls took to the runway.

Like any good Mimran, Kim Newport truly understands the business of fashion. Always just trendy enough to get the shopping list fantasizing going, but never so much so that she’s off on a limb in the discount bin. Albeit a little derivative of Proenza Schouler’s spring 2008 and/or spring 2010 collections, Pink Tartan’s fall offering was nothing short of pitch-perfect covetability. Part updated-military, part festooned dancer, the show included a series of standouts like the belted utility vests and relaxed button downs over ostrich skirts, the cable knits and a large army printed ballgown. Backstage, Newport called it “couturitarian”. We call it “yes, please!”

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With its debut flagship store opening this spring in The Big Apple and a handful of new flagship stores popping up across Canada, the future continues to look bright for Joe Fresh (and the mastermind behind the label, Joe Mimran, who sported an electric orange scarf at the show). This knock-your-socks-off colour wave lapped into Joe Fresh’s fall 2011 collection too with juicy orange shift dresses and cord belts, crisp blue and rich green outerwear⎯the bracelet length sleeve is back folks, so muster up your inner Jackie O and invest in a pair of elbow length gloves this fall.  Oxford shoes dipped in metallic gold and librarian-chic low heels will keep you a step up for fall, while navy blue knits and camel coloured separates continue the classic sportswear streak.  And when it comes to reciting your accessories vows, a rich cognac-hued tote bag is the one to have and to hold, forever and ever. Amen.

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Even through these last days of bitter frigidity, the fashion flock has managed to come out swinging in the LG Fashion Week wardrobe department. We sent budding photographer Lewis Mirrett to Heritage Court to capture some of the off-runway action and what we ended up with was a completely fresh and colourful take on street style. Check out the best of what he’s snapped so far!

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When I try to digest yesterday’s Chloé Comme Parris show, all that comes to mind is wow wow wow. In their sophomore LG show for fall, sisters Chloé and Parris Gordon mixed understated western elements with a distinctively refined downtown edge. But these aren’t just run-of-the-mill western elements, they are right out of the (Gold Rush) history books… or off the (True Grit) silver screen. Silver belt buckles in multiples adorned tailored jacket shoulders, the waists of bombers and the edges of several poncho-like sweaters. Coattails and the backs of shirtwaists alike appeared as curvilinear outpourings from otherwise structured garments. This is becoming something of a signature for the sisters, who seem to pay special attention to the caboose of things. And the accessories! Crystal shoulder straps and buckled bags added even more it-factor to the show’s offerings.

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After Denis Gagnon’s stunning spring 2011 fringe fest, the fashion pack has been patiently awaiting his follow-up performance. True to form, Gagnon churned out his signature unconventional silhouettes and heavy hitting hardware (industrial-strength exposed zippers zigzagged down many a top and dress) for fall 2011. But this time around, the hits were sprinkled throughout his collection, which called for a round of “I-spy-the-editorial-pieces”.  While the brightly coloured (dare I say clownish?) tulle trim verged on distraction, his texture message was at its best when tough utility jackets were paired with soft pleated maxi skirts. Known for his love of noire, Gagnon introduced a few hot hues into the mix, (blush, orange, fuchsia) which brightened up his overall dark, somber mood. Highlights included his incredible sculptural details seen on his bomber jacket, the cool leather and chiffon mixes, the oversized cobweb knits and his statement tribal-inspired accessories (a collaboration with jewellery designer Dandi Maestre).

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Cue the video! Our naked protagonist pulls on her tee and leggings strewn across the floor and ties her cardigan around her waist. Hair still in last night’s rat’s nest, she grabs her boots, poncho and bag, before taking the walk of shame… straight onto the LABEL runway. Sure to be a hit among the young, downtown grunge kids⎯as only they can truly pull off crop tops, baby dolls, band tees and elastic-bottom velvet pants⎯the collection was heavy on ‘90s nostalgia. Styled with sheer insouciance, henley tees were layered over leather leggings, and oversize tops with cable knit hot pants. The broken zipper on the cream slip dress almost seemed intentional. And perhaps it was… in the world of the morning after.

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