FASHION Magazine

For those of you⎯like our chicer than chic editor-in-chief, Bernadette Morra⎯who are jet setting off to Paris today, here are my top spots for what people are wearing in the front row this season. If you must pack light⎯and you must⎯here are your absolute essentials:

The Linate airport is looking like one chic departure lounge early this morning. Grabbing a coffee before jetting off to Paris is: Style.com‘s Nicole Phelps, the Los Angeles Times’ Booth Moore, WWD‘s Miles Socha. Plus, there’s a whole gaggle of seriously chic NYC cool girls who I’m always sitting next to at shows that (even at my age) have a way of making me feel like the girl in the high school caf who eats alone. But enough about me, I haven’t had two seconds to tell you about the final day of Milan fashion week!

Dolce & Gabbana is about to begin. This is one show I never mind waiting for. And why would I? The seats in the Metropol theatre are cushy-comfy and actually have backs (YES!) There’s plenty to keep you entertained⎯from the waiter plying you with pizza and red wine at your seat, to the video scenes of backstage primping, people arriving, and front-row eds gossiping in their seats that is looped and playing overhead. Any moment, the theatre will go dark and like clockwork, my favourite, “Cavalleria Rusticana” will swell on the sound system and, from what I can see from the backstage video, fall will be another colossal hit for this dynamic duo. So far, from the monitor above me, I spy enormous star earrings, lace, and glitter galore! Sequins mix with fur and there’s a gender-bending mix of masculine/feminine… feels like classic Dolce to me!

As I am waiting for Brioni to begin, I notice that all the staff is wearing the latest object of my affection: the horn necklace worn by Irina Lazereanu in our April issue (stay tuned for a preview). I’m lusting big time!

But first things first: let’s discuss Marni while we wait. The congregation was in full rapture at the church of Consuelo Castiglioni this fine Sunday morning in Milan. Castaglioni sure knows how to preach to the converted by showing yet another strong, glamorous collection that was modern and precise. Full of many of the trends that have swept Milan fashion week including forest green, block heeled mary janes, gold lurex, geometric prints, stiff leather, strict rigorous volumes, cocooning egg shapes and fur, each was featured in her very own special way. Hallelujah!

It was nice to catch up with Deena Weinberg, owner of Toronto’s Max Mara shop at the Sportmax show. It’s a little out of context for the two of us, we’re more often caught sweating on our bikes at Sunday morning spin class than at a fashion show! The collection was big on coats with swingy tweed toppers, parkas and a particularly strong rusty patent leather floor length trench. Texture was the name of the game with sheer appliqued embroidered floral prints, chunky rib knits, sequins and this season’s obligatory coloured fur.

If optimists were still holding out for evidence to the contrary, The Sun has obtained a video that shows John Galliano uttering Anti-Semitic slurs, similar to those he was arrested for saying last Friday. Galliano was interrogated by police earlier today about the last week’s incident. Arriving at the police station, the designer was mobbed by the paparazzi, as captured by The Telegraph in this video.

Meanwhile, with Paris fashion week beginning on Tuesday and the Dior show still on the schedule, the fashion world holds its breath for the official news from the house. Its hard to imagine how a house that is legendary for spinning such magic with silk and tulle can spin its way out of this one without severing all ties to the designer.

Could someone puh-lease FedEx Versace‘s finale gown straight to the Oscars? And while you’re at it throw in a couple from the Gianfranco Ferré finale as well. Both are gorgeous, modern, sexy and oozing with a cool factor that’s got Oscar-winner written all over them! And with Dior probably out of the running for tonight’s big night, we could use some fresh labels on the red carpet. 
Both Ferré and Versace showed slick, modern collections on Friday.

The morning begins with heart shaped doughnuts and an officer’s club feeling at Moschino. There are heaps of gold trimmed masculine naval uniforms, black and white tux inspired trouser suits and a dash of sweet flouncy dresses thrown in as a feminine counterpoint by way of ruffles, bustles, floral prints and peplums.
 Why Coco Rocha walks the runway with a chicken atop her head, I’ll never know, but one things for sure: she certainly knows how to put the chic into chicken!

Stuffed full of pasta—my favourite, Spaghetti Rosa once again—and a good Chianti, I can now happily digest both my dinner and the Prada collection.  Prada shows have a tendency to get overly scrutinized so I’ll try some free association. When I think of the super-strong collection that just blasted by me, three little words instantly come to mind:
 innocent, fresh and modern.
 Okay, and a few more: the return of the coat dress, the swishy sound of saucer-size sequins as they waft by, the subtly beautiful blush pastel colour palette mixed with strong and clear reds. I loved Miuccia’s typical mashups of ‘20s, ‘40s and ‘60s, exaggerated swimcaps and goggles… or are they aviator hats? I promised I wouldn’t over-think.

I was mesmerized by the soundtrack at Fendi yesterday—James Blake’s “Limit to Your Love”—and the collection in turn was just as beautiful as the music.
 There was a relaxed, easy feeling and a whiff of the English countryside to the felted wool swingy coats, cropped pants, tweedy knit sweat pants, luxe shearlings and furs.
 Karl Lagerfeld previewed a parade of colour and texture with subtle, sophisticated tones in structured top handle bags and in ribbed wooly tights that contrasted beautifully with block heel mary-janes. Shearlings were turned inside out and trimmed with croc. Melton and felted wool in khakis, ochres, and purples made for some boxy, simple leather trimmed totes and even a ruffle turned up in wool as a detachable jabot on blouses and dresses. Easy, rich and relaxed: just the way I’d like to feel and I’m guessing I’m not the only one.

Today I am a true victim of fashion. In between Fendi and D&G there’s a break just long enough to squeeze in a quick visit to the Marni outlet (on every editor’s must-do list this week). You can tell its fashion week from the number of car/drivers parked in front of the unassuming “secret” address. Through two electronic gates, down a long alley, into an apartment complex mixed with bicycles and hanging laundry we tread until we arrive at the back door entrance of Marni mecca.

Sequins, ruffles, jewel toned chiffon… Could I be anywhere but an Alberta Ferretti show? But wait! There is a distinctly minimal look that’s new for the reigning queen of chiffon as well as a bit of a mod ‘60s vibe I am seeing in bright trim little coats, simple shifts and bellbottoms. What’s this? Has Ferretti set down her Bedazzler once and for all? Never!