FASHION Magazine

Read L’Wren Scott’s holiday tips »

Glamour is a favourite subject of designer L’Wren Scott, and when she calls me from her London offices to discuss Christmas and collaborations, talk soon turns to sequins and sparkle—namely those within her holiday capsule collection for Banana Republic, in stores and online now. Inspired by “glamorous entertaining and holiday at home,” the collection has glitz aplenty (sequined sweaters, brocade shift dresses, juicy jewel tones), but one perfect outfit does not a holiday hostess make.

’Tis the season for festive merry-making, and, given Scott’s affinity for all things gilded (not to mention rock star Mick Jagger is her long-time boyfriend), we couldn’t think of anyone whose holiday entertaining style we’d want to steal more. From vintage ornaments and Christmas-y scents to gorgeous gifts and what to wear, we ask Scott to share some of her favourite things of the season, because during the holidays, all that glitters is definitely gold.

See our boudoir trend guide »

When I was growing up, I used to visit my grandmother in Palm Beach, where she wintered in a conch-pink pseudo Spanish-style condo called (accurately) La Bonne Vie. My favourite activity was grocery shopping at Palm Beach’s Publix—a glamorized supermarket washed a bunny-nose pink with valet parking and bougainvillea-swathed archways. Here, tycoons with Hermès-orange suntans and manses on Billionaire’s Row shuffled through the aisles dressed in silken Persian pyjamas and monogrammed velvet bedroom slippers, carts full of crab salad, their long-suffering chauffeurs waiting outside in purring Bentleys. Wearing pyjamas outside of the bedroom has historically been the habit of the egregiously wealthy, the eccentric, the hyper-medicated on day passes—and the freelance writer.

See the Diesel Tribute Capsule collection »

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Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

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Diesel Reboot Flash T-Shirt

Diesel Reboot Flash T-Shirt

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Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

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Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

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Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

Diesel Tribute Capsule Collection

When I arrive at Nicola Formichetti’s New York studio, located on a quiet street in the no man’s land between Tribeca and Chinatown, I’m greeted by a chaotic production scene and a whole lot of very stylish, very busy-looking Chinese people. Photographers are zigzagging around the space, women with clipboards are running after them, everyone’s iPhones are out and ablaze. Apparently, Chinese pop star Momo Wu (and her extensive entourage) is here filming a segment with Formichetti, whom I spot patiently posing for pictures while being shouted at in Mandarin. I’m quickly ushered into the metallic calm of a waiting elevator and whisked up to the designer’s fourth-floor loft.

When the elevator doors open, I find myself face to face with a different kind of frenzy. Compared to the clean-lined studio downstairs, which calls to mind a Tokyo gallery with its minimal decor and silver sculptures on display, Formichetti’s private space is an unexpected explosion of youthful exuberance and unadulterated kawaii. Seeing this wonderland of tropical plants, fuzzy shag rugs and colourful plush toys, I can’t help but smile, despite the sensory overload. I don’t know what I expected of the radical former Mugler designer’s New York pad (a sinister-looking crown on the mantel perhaps? A lace and latex settee?), but a rainbow-coloured cartoon fantasy was not it.

When Formichetti appears a few minutes later, he is equal parts bemused and bewildered. “It’s crazy down there!” he proclaims. “Did you see all those people? I must have had 10 cameras facing me!” Momo Wu has come to woo him, he explains as he collapses onto a pink and purple sofa upholstered in a whimsical Japanese fruit and flower print. He settles in between a stuffed Tarepanda doll and a Rilakkuma pillow. “She wants to work with me,” he shrugs. “Apparently, she’s
the Lady Gaga of China.”

Formichetti may be best known as the former stylist (and still bestie) of Lady Gaga, but these days he’s got more on his mind than meat gowns, feather headdresses and bubble-machine minis. As fashion director at Uniqlo and recently appointed artistic director at Diesel, it seems the boundary-pushing designer is going back to basics. “I’m very interested in the fantasy side of fashion, but at the same time I’ve always been into street culture,” he says. “Diesel is in between »

By Martina Stritesky

Merry Mint Martini
Ring in 2014 by serving the freshest-tasting ‘tini in town.

Muddle 2 oz.vodka, such as Grey Goose, with eight mint leaves in a shaker. Add 1 tsp. superfine sugar and 1 oz. lemon juice and continue to muddle. Fill with crushed ice and shake. Strain and pour into glass.

See the flat trend on the runway »

When red carpet renegade Kristen Stewart wore a pair of Converse Chuck Taylors with her Yigal Azrouël dress at the MTV Movie Awards in 2009 (or the sneakers she wore on any number of subsequent red carpet walks), she was essentially flipping fashion the bird. In this industry, comfort has historically been a four-letter word: f-l-a-t.

This season, there’s a more sophisticated way to save your soles.

After years of sending models teetering down runways in sky-high strappy sandals and stilettos, designers have become the new flat-vocates, endorsing everything from clunky lug soles and creepers to trim, slim loafers and sleek skimmers especially suited to holiday dressing.

Like so many other recent trends that can be traced back to Lanvin, it’s arguable that the house’s ubiquitous stretchy, girlish ballerina flat of 2002 was fashion’s gateway drug to comfort. Once you go flat, you never go back. This season, Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz sent winter floral party dresses down the runway but grounded their feminine whimsy with more mannish oxfords in leather, velvet and glitter-encrusted versions. This new flat provides a balance to the proportions of fall’s revival of ’50s volume, from the new New Look of full dirndl skirts at Rochas to the boxy topcoats at Céline.

See the backstage beauty report for Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2013 »

For Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2013, the divine beauty look complemented the religious iconography that inspired the collection. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana blessed their designs with elaborate motifs from the mosaics in Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale. “We love the contrast it creates with the sensuality and the passion of the Dolce & Gabbana woman,” says Gabbana. Hair was backcombed for extra volume volume and gathered at the nape of the neck for what Guido Palau described as “natural Italian allure.”

The allure continued with the makeup, inspired by the country’s iconic screen siren, Sophia Loren. Pat McGrath paid homage with a classic cat eye and bold brow. As for the ultra-rich red lips, two shades of lipstick were mixed to create a custom hue and applied overtop a base of ruby-red pencil. Finally, the Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2013 beauty look became a complete sensory experience with a few spritzes of the label’s latest scent, Intense. “Every time we go to Sicily, we are overwhelmed by the smell of the land,” says Dolce. “Flowers of every kind mix with the notes of the sea to create a unique bouquet.”

Now in its 12th year, Art Basel Miami is regarded as the biggest art event in North America. Beyond attracting star couples like Jay Z and Beyoncé, the 250-plus international galleries participating bring more than 50,000 art lovers to Miami. To help navigate this gigantic affair, which runs from Dec. 5 to 8, we’ve highlighted key names from Canada’s art scene who will be in attendance, and asked them about past memories and future itineraries.

See the boudoir photo shoot »

Satins, slips, feathers and lace allow femininity and romance to have a not-so-secret affair. In this retro photo shoot from our Winter 2014 issue, Canadian model Lisa Cant stars as the glamorous mistress awaiting her paramour’s arrival. Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten’s shared Fall 2013 boudoir focus is the perfect aphrodisiac.

Should you wear PJs to Work?

Absolutely not. However, like writer Olivia Stren, you should open your mind to lace-trimmed slip dresses and silky shirts with piped edges. In “While You Were Sleeping” (page 86), Stren took one of the season’s key looks—Louis Vuitton’s slip and coat—out on the town and, as is her way, has lots of amusing things to say about the experience.
Sleepwear beyond the boudoir is just one of the holiday trends we tackle in this issue, along with—you’ll be happy to hear—fancy flats. Nathalie Atkinson, long noted for her grounded taste in footwear, looks at the shift away (and down!) from heels even for night in “Sole Mates” (page 74). We also bring you several exclusive interviews in this issue.

ALWAYS IN FASHION
46 fashionmagazine.com
50 Letter from the editor
52 contributors
54 behind the scenes
56 Letters from our readers

FASHION
60 News: All the fashion news you need to know this month.
62 Flashpoint: Stylish women across Canada step out in plunging necklines and a graphic black-and-white palette.
64 Exclusive: Nicola Formichetti opens up about rebooting Diesel and how to start a denim revolution.
68 Jewellery: Jewellery designers are going to the dark side with a treasure trove of black-stone baubles.
72 Runway: Holiday plaids get the high-fashion treatment.
74 Flats: Sayonara stilettos! Flashy flats are the favoured footwear this fall.
80 Astrology: Sarah Nicole Prickett asks the fashion set, “What’s your sign?”
84 Profile: Footwear designer Deborah Castel has an empire state of mind.
86 Test Drive: Olivia Stren tries on the pyjama-dressing trend.
90 Dossier: Elsa Schiaparelli, queen of curious couture, returns to her throne.
92 Snapped: Street-style photographer Tommy Ton describes a favourite shot.
97 The list: Whether you’re hitting the slopes or the party circuit, we make holiday dressing a snap.

See our top picks from the Nars Guy Bourdin holiday collection »

Long inspired by Guy Bourdin’s luscious, glossy work, François Nars pays homage to the photographer with a high-wattage holiday collection.

Growing up, François Nars didn’t waste his affection on teen idols and pop stars. While others were tearing pages from Tiger Beat magazine to make Donny Osmond-themed collages, Nars’s bedroom walls were papered with the cinematic pictures of fashion photographer Guy Bourdin, ripped from Vogue Paris and Harper’s Bazaar. “I was such a fan when I was a kid,” recalls the makeup artist. “I woke up to the fashion world through his images.”

Since launching his namesake collection in 1994, Nars has honoured the late photographer through palette colours, shade names and advertising campaigns, but now he’s paying a bigger tribute to his hero with a holiday collection inspired by some of his favourite shots. “I was really inspired directly by the makeup in those photographs,” says Nars, who translated it into intensely pigmented lipsticks, nail polishes and eyeshadows (from $21, narscosmetics.com).

It’s a fitting homage, given Bourdin’s reputation for being heavily invested in the beauty looks for his pictures: He would inspect the hair and makeup before he even began shooting. “It was a big production, and it always started with the model and the makeup,” said Bourdin’s son Samuel at a preview of the collection in Paris.

Consider us your official advisers on where to wisely spend your beauty dollars (and time).

HAIRBRUSH | FACIAL OIL | RED LIPSTICK | RETINOL | COLOUR-PROTECTING MASK | SIGNATURE SCENT | CONCEALER | CLEANSING BRUSH | LASH & BROW SERUM | MASCARA | NAIL POLISH | HAIR DRYER