FASHION Magazine
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Night vision: We take a closer look at Fall’s darkest and most dominant trend
From left: Ann Demeulemeester, Andrew Gn, Gareth Pugh Fall 2012. Photography by Peter Stigter. The new wave of head-to-toe black looks in slick leathers and decadent fabrics casts a dark shadow over the season.
See this trend on the runway »
Twilight has fallen over spring’s garden of flirty ’50s looks, light-as-air fabrics and sugar-dusted pastels. Fall 2012 takes fashion in a darker direction, more easily defined by a mood than a trend. Black, in all its textural incarnations (patent leather, velvet, wool, fur, satin) rolled over the runways from New York to Paris like an impending storm cloud, urging us to take cover. But are these dark clothes for dark times? We haven’t experienced this level of sartorial sobriety since Fall 2009, when austerity reigned supreme as the result of a volatile stock market. This season, coverage is king (again) but there’s an underlying strength and sexiness to it this time around.
Call it the Rooney Mara effect: Gareth Pugh, Riccardo Tisci and Ann Demeulemeester channelled Stieg Larsson’s anti-heroine, Lisbeth Salander, with their strict, second-skin leather looks. No ink or piercings required, just confidence with a capital C. At Pugh, there were loads of skinny leather trousers; at Givenchy, a body-con turtleneck dress that flared below the hips looked like it was composed of latex; and at Demeulemeester, construction, shape and architecture leapt from the shadows into the spotlight. Part apocalyptic warrior, part goth, part badass hacker, this moody message also contains whispers of the erotic, as witnessed at Viktor & Rolf’s partial peep show. Jean Paul Gaultier brought street style to a dark place, pairing a deconstructed two-tone moto jacket with a razor-sharp pencil skirt. Donatella Versace resurrected the idea of protection with her lineup of crucifix-embellished coats and sweaters, chain-mail dresses and armour-like corsets. These sinfully good elements were reminiscent of her late brother’s final collection in 1996. Clearly, sex and religion never go out of style.
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Fall/Winter 2012 trend report: Check out our rundown of the brooches, briefcases and knee-high boots that have become this season’s accessory fixations
See our accessories A-list now »
JUMP TO: BROOCHES | BRIEFCASES | POINTED PUMPS | CHOKERS | TOP-HANDLE BAGS | KNEE-HIGH BOOTS | LOAFERS
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Fall/Winter 2012 trend report: 138 of the top looks from New York, London, Milan, and Paris!
Fashion’s favourite season is finally here and we’ve got the chock-a-block trend report to prove it, complete with 138 of the top looks that take you from Fall’s dark fantasies into Winter’s light and feminine pastels. Go on, get clicking!
JUMP TO A TREND:
NIGHT VISION | EMBELLISH THE STORY | PANTS | GREAT OUTDOORS | FINE CHINA | MISS ‘60s | JEWEL TONES | SUGAR RUSH | SPECIAL FX | SIZE MATTERS | PEPLUMANIA | KNIT PICK -
Lady Gaga shares her Vogue cover via social media and (as predicted) it’s pretty stunning
Image courtesy of Vogue September issues are always a big deal, and Vogue has quite the cover contender: Lady Gaga. The pop star excitedly took to Twitter last night to share the first peek at the cover, posting to her Little Monsters page: “SHH DONT TELL TWITTER/ SEPT ISSUE OF VOGUE MAGAZINE/ Sorry Anna but the underground kids deserve it. bisous! […].”
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All Vamped Up: Read our interview and go behind the scenes at our cover shoot with Nina Dobrev
Photographed by James White. Styled by Hayley Atkin With two feature films and a top-rated TV series, Nina Dobrev is taking a bite out of Hollywood. Check out our interview and go behind-the-scenes with our homegrown September cover star.
Read an excerpt from our interview with Nina Dobrev »
Watch the behind-the-scenes video »
See the behind-the-scenes photos »
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September 2012: Table of contents
FASHION Magazine September 2012. Nina Dobrev. Photography by James White. Styling by Hayley Atkin. ALWAYS IN FASHION
50 Fashionmagazine.com
54 Letter from the editor
56 Contributors
58 Behind the scenes
60 Letters from our readersFASHION FILE
64 NEWS Salvatore Ferragamo’s new exhibition pays homage to Marilyn Monroe, Louis Vuitton shows them who’s deboss, the model of the moment, and Holt Renfrew celebrates the big 1-7-5.
66 FLASHPOINT Party girls across Canada dress to impress in hats, brushstroke prints and asymmetrical hemlines.
68 TREND REPORT Fall 2012 is nigh and the forecast is dark. Check out the A-list.
86 Q+A Bernadette Morra travels to Vancouver to chat fashion and motherhood with Victoria Beckham.
90 RESORT Chanel unveils its 2013 Resort collection amidst the gardens of Versailles.
92 DESIGNERS Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s quirky-cool Rodarte line continues its ascent.
96 INVITATION Designer Paul Hardy on 10 years in the business and his greatest love of all.
99 THE LIST Extras! Extras! Read all about our edit of the season’s best shoes, boots and bags. -
September 2012: Letter from the editor
Photography by Vanessa Heins; hair and makeup by Sheri Stroh for Plutino Group/Tresemmé Hair Care; shot on location at the Trump International Hotel and Tower Toronto Sometimes, a new fashion season can seem overwhelming, with trends, images and must-have pronouncements slamming us from all sides.
But then along comes a shoe or a bag—something—that stops you in your tracks. For me, it happened when I laid eyes on a pair of Prada pants with bejewelled hems (shown on page 46). Our senior editor, Sarah Casselman, attended the Fall 2012 runway show in Milan where the elegant embellished trousers were unveiled. I was watching from afar. But still, when I saw those pant legs trimmed in giant cabochons, my first thought was: “I want them.” My second thought was: “How on earth can they be hemmed if they’re too long?” My third thought was: “Who cares?! If they don’t fit, they’ll make a superb wall-hanging.”
The fact that designers can make us fall in love with clothes all over again is a testament to their artistic brilliance. While I was waiting (for two hours!) to meet Victoria Beckham in Vancouver (“Victoria Day,” page 86), Holt Renfrew client Pamela Richardson was telling me how she became smitten with Beckham’s designs.
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