FASHION Magazine

Strategic cut-outs, thigh-high slits and body-con shapes: Sébastien Peigné and Nicola Formichetti of Mugler are bringing sexy back.

Reviving Mugler is a monster task. After designer Thierry Mugler took his final runway bow at his couture show in July 2000, this kinky house of cool (remember Demi Moore’s bondage-style dress in 1993’s Indecent Proposal?) started flatlining. Ten years later, the resuscitation began. In 2010, following months of speculation, Nicola Formichetti (Lady Gaga’s stylist) was tapped to lead the revival of the French house known for its over-the-top theatricality and sex appeal. Besides outfitting Mother Monster, this 34-year-old half-Italian, half-Japanese, techno-savvy superstar is also the fashion director for Vogue Hommes Japan and global retailer Uniqlo. His debut Mugler womenswear show during Fall 2011 Paris Fashion Week had the twitterverse buzzing about its latex-dipped leggings, body-stocking dresses and the catwalk pièce de résistance: Gaga, smoking in every sense of the word.

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Peekaboo. It’s probably the first game many of us ever played. And designers here in Paris are proposing that we play again, at least with our clothes. Panels of sheer and opaque, choppy layers, and tops and dresses with split sides have been strutting the catwalks here on day three of the Fall 2012 collections in Paris.

Hussein Chalayan showed a black shift with giant oval cutout over red crepe and a brown leather jacket sliced at the side to reveal another layer of the same skin. Thighs swished under sheer panels at Vionnet. Vests with abbreviated backs were belted over dresses at Roland Mouret. Today at Isabel Marant, suedes with laser-cut western motifs were shown.

And here is your quick jot of more top trends in the making:

Looks like we’ve hit the motherlode! Spotted outside Balenciaga yesterday were both of the house’s fragrance faces: Kristen Stewart and Charlotte Gainsbourg. Amidst the mass of celebrities, we also spotted Prada’s spring flames and retro car prints pretty much, well, everywhere. Glad to know that everyone loves the collection as much as we do!

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The word “designer” permeates Kara Chomistek’s world from head to heels. This cool 24-year-old biomedical engineer designs orthopedic equipment and her own namesake clothing line. In her spare time, she dances with a semi-professional salsa troupe, in addition to teaching cha-cha, tango and jive. She is also the co-founder and president of PARK (Promoting Artists, Redefining Kulture), a non-profit organization launched in 2008 that promotes local designers and artists through designer forums, industry mixers, and fashion and art shows. When attending evening affairs, this glam go-getter slips into spotlight-stealing labels, including Lanvin, Miu Miu, Valentino and local designer Paul Hardy. “Fashion allows me to achieve balance in my life,” she says. “It’s another medium for me to use my creativity. Similar to art, I like to wear unique or unusual pieces that can spark a conversation.”

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Paris feels like the Amazing Race, what with a crammed show schedule, road detours, and invitations that go poof in the night. But what’s Paris without a little drama, oui?

The important thing is that strong themes are already emerging. One is the trend of opulence everyday—like a shimmery brocade skirt with a wool crewneck sweater, as we saw at Marco Zanini’s collection for Rochas. The same idea surfaced at Barbara Bui where a gold foil wrap was worn with navy pants. Don’t save your precious items for special occasions, designers seem to be saying. It’s the fashion equivalent of using your good silver with your everyday china. Do try this one at home.

In celebration of the Oscars, I’ve decided to give out a few awards of my own for day five of Milan Fashion Week. Drum roll, por favor.

BEST SHOW DU JOUR goes to… Dolce & Gabbana. The moving opera soundtrack (ah, I love Pavarotti!), the ornate rose-strewn chandeliers, the heavily embroidered Sicilian-inspired looks (think black and gold, beads, crystals, lace, and jewels); Dolce & Gabbana was the fashion moment of the day!

Ever wonder what a vampire (lover) smells like? Or an awkward 21 year old? Well, Balenciaga has announced today, that our favourite lover of a bloodsucker, Kristen Stewart, is the face of their new fragrance.

K-Stew’s claim to fame is, of course, the Twilight series, and we’re sure devoted twi-hards will be running to get a bit of Bella Swan come the perfume’s release—but the creative director of Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière, does not mention her appearance in the famed film in his statement explaining his choice. Instead, he talks about her lesser-known roles in Panic Room and Welcome to the Rileys. We’re with him so far…

The ingénue dishes to WWD: “The brand is just cool. That’s the way it is. I feel drawn to it. It provokes on a number of levels. It isn’t afraid or contrived. It hits a very cool balance, always. Always pretty undeniable.” Cool? Maybe. Muse-worthy? Not so sure.

What do we know about the “cool” fragrance? Not much, just that the name is yet to be announced. The scent is expected to launch this fall, just in time for the final installment of Twilight: Breaking Dawn, Part 2. What a coincidence.

The Kelly, the PS1, the Speedy: It bags have become so major over the years, that they scarcely even need a designer name attached! We discuss the appeal at length in our Winter 2012 issue, but today, we’re putting these bags to the test: in the battle of It bag supremacy, which comes out on top?

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Since her death in July, Amy Winehouse has been remembered not only for her music but also for her vintage-inspired style. The singer’s influence was seen in magazines and even on the Chanel runway where Karl Lagerfeld styled his models’ hair in Winehouse’s signature messy beehive. After receiving Winehouse’s parents’ blessing, Fred Perry has posthumously released Winehouse’s collaboration with the brand. Today the red and white dress she wore on the cover of her Back to Black album was auctioned off in London for $67, 500. Other items in the auction included a dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga for Elizabeth Taylor—which actually sold for less than Winehouse’s dress!—as well as replicas of Princess Diana’s Emanuel wedding dress and Clive Shilton shoes which sold for just over Winehouse’s bid.

After months of searching for the chicest gifts to share with you, our dear readers, we’ve come across more than a few items that have made their way onto our own lists! For even more holiday inspiration, check out the items we’re lusting after as well as what we’ve got coming for our nearest and dearest.

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Jump to an editor: Bernadette Morra | Susie Sheffman | Caitlin Agnew | Lesa Hannah | Sarah Daniel | Randi Bergman | Emilie Dingfeld | Jordan Porter | Rani Sheen | Nicole Stafford | Sarah Casselman | Rachel Simpson | Caitlan Moneta | Paige Dzenis | Michael White

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Going benchless a la Balenciaga, the FASHION team took to the studio room at LGFW last night to catch a glimpse of the crowded Juma Spring 2012 collection. We can say for certain that the hair was fairy-dusted in gold, copper, and silver glitter (we really ought to think about bringing our statuesque copy editor, Emilie Dingfield, to the shows for height advantage) and through some stellar hockey-style decking past the mob of fashion folk blocking our view, we came away with 3 must-haves, and an unexpected calf workout from our en pointe posture:

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Sculpted bags that mimic pearly seashells at Chanel; a cross-sectional view of a jacket’s shoulder pads at Lanvin; treated silk so slick you’d swear it was leather at Balenciaga; and intricately embroidered ruffles at Yves Saint Laurent. When it comes to decadent details in a collection these French heavyweight houses win hands down.