FASHION Magazine
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Erdem, the collector: We delve inside the designer’s collection of over 1,000 books
The gossamer lace dresses printed with a profusion of blooms in Erdem’s Spring 2012 collection called to mind a few things: a summer of leisure, innocence about to be lost, perhaps a girl one step removed from reality. London, U.K.–based Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu explains that he conceived the designs after reading Françoise Sagan’s Bonjour Tristesse, “and it stuck.” The French Riviera–set story of a girl’s complicated relationship with her widowed father and his lovers was written by Sagan in 1954, when she was just 18.
This literary link in Moralioglu’s design process isn’t out of the ordinary. A voracious collector of books—he estimates his current count at close to 1,000—he frequently looks to them for inspiration. “I can point to books on my shelves that were catalysts for different collections,” he says.
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FASHION designer giveaway: Enter to win a designer dress by Philip Sparks
2012 marks FASHION Magazine’s 35th Anniversary! To celebrate, each issue, we’re pairing up with a different Canadian who is also celebrating a milestone. We invite our readers to enter for their chance to WIN the designers’ featured show pieces. Good luck!
Enter to win this dress by Philip Sparks »
Watch our behind the scenes video with Philip Sparks »
Read our interview with the designer » -
Q&A: 5 minutes with Thomas Tait
Before completing a Master of Arts in womenswear at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, this Canadian-born U.K. expat cut his design chops at Montreal’s LaSalle College. Now Thomas Tait (thomastait.com) is a ready-to-wear whiz kid on the international fashion scene, churning out strong, tailored pieces in mostly soft silhouettes.
What was the most valuable thing you learned at LaSalle?
“How to make clothes. I had no idea how technical the course would be. I was literally scared of the sewing machine for quite a while.”
Your graduate project was a beautiful exploration of human angles: collarbones, hip bones, shoulders.
“There was definitely an elaboration on silhouette in my Fall 2011 collection. It was insanely hard to do, but I loved it in the end.” -
Andrej Pejic: Our cover shoot, interview, and behind the scenes video with the androgynous star
He’s no lady. Boy wonder Andrej Pejic brings his dry wit and supermodel moves to the top Canadian designs for spring.
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5 minutes with Marie Saint Pierre
Montreal’s Queen of Fashion has a one-of-a-kind style that’s recognizable from coast to coast. Since starting her eponymous collection nearly 25 years ago, Marie Saint Pierre (mariesaintpierre.com) has opened two boutiques and caught the attention of countless fashion lovers. Here, she talks about her latest project: a holiday capsule collection for Reitmans, the tried-and-true Canadian retailer.
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5 minutes with Sid Neigum
With his distinct talent and penchant for performance art, it comes as no surprise that small-town Alberta designer Sid Neigum (sidneigum.com) once created a 300-pound dress from old tires and screws. He’s currently studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York as well as producing full collections for women and men, which he’s shown at Toronto’s LG Fashion Week for the past two seasons. Neigum is lighting up Canadian runways, but with an exceptionally dark appeal.
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Montreal shop notes: Rock the coat
Staying warm during winter without sacrificing style is a veritable art for cold-weather warriors in Montreal. What’s on my outerwear radar this month? Local lines Mackage, Soïa & Kyo, Moose Knuckles (think chic puffers) and Rud, the new collection by Rudsak (rudbyrudsak.com).
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Vancouver shop notes: It’s for luck
A rabbit-fur tassel might not radiate the same luck as a rabbit’s foot, but it can’t hurt your chances of a fortuitous 2012. In either slinky gunmetal or playful Day-Glo green, these bracelets by Vancouver Island–based Erika Lauren Design (erikalaurendesign.com) add instant charm to a New Year’s Eve getup. Made with found materials, they leave a light eco-footprint too. At Dream ($45 each, 311 W. Cordova St., 604-683-7326).
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Power Lines: Some of Canada’s most successful fashion families gain their power from within
From footwear to outerwear, these engaging Canadian fashion ventures are keeping it in the family.
By Laura deCarufel
THE WEINBERGS | ALDO | CANADA GOOSE | BROWNS | DANIER | JACOB | LAURA CANADA | THE ASSARAFS | LA CANADIENNE
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Ones to watch: The 4 up-and-coming designers you need to know now
From ready-to-wear to footwear—check out the four designers that are on our radar.
CHLOÉ COMME PARRIS | CHRISSIE MORRIS | JOOMI LIM |
J.W. ANDERSON -
Oh Canada: Studio Intent Boutique + Gallery
Although we were sad to see the Shisomiso Boutique & Gallery close, the opening of Studio Intent Boutique + Gallery (100 7th Ave. SW, Suite 105, Calgary, 403-226-4211, studiointent.ca) in its former space has given us cause to celebrate. This hip little emporium features a motherlode of Canadian talent, such as vintage-inspired pendants from Calgary’s Colleen Cyca and structured dresses from Montreal’s Eve Gravel. Supercute dresses and tunics in a monochromatic palette from Valérie Dumaine are perfect picks for evenings out. And Vancouver-based Erin Templeton’s roomy leather bags fit right in among the store’s other great Canadian collections.
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Q&A: 5 minutes with Rozemerie Cuevas
Twenty-five years in fashion makes you a veteran, but RozeMerie Cuevas and her label, Jacqueline Conoir, are far from retirement. Case in point: Cuevas recently upsized her Jacqueline Conoir Boutique & Studio (164 W. Fifth Ave., Vancouver, 604-688-5222, jacquelineconoir.com) to an 8,000-square-foot space and launched a younger, edgier line, called JAC.
What type of girl did you have in mind when you were designing JAC?
“A cross between Kate Moss and Chloë Sevigny. She’s urban. She’s modern. She’s subtle. She has her finger on the pulse of things.”
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