FASHION Magazine

While the trend so far at New York Fashion Week has been minimal makeup that wasn’t the case at Peter Som. For starters, rainbow-hued extensions (dyed the day prior by colourist Aura Freidman) were tucked randomly in hair, styled by Eugene Souleiman. On the face, Tom Pecheux also wanted randomness and he used his finger tips to apply colour on the eyes, with the goal of looking like a child’s painting. Finally, you know how we feel about French manicures at FASHION. (If not, let me bring you up to speed: ewww!) But when done right (i.e., no acrylics and no white, squared off tips) we can get behind the style. A perfect exception-making example: the creamy orange and mint combo that used two out of the three shades from Zoya’s custom nail polish range for Peter Som.

Read on for more backstage beauty at New York Fashion Week »

Inspiration
The designer mandated sporty chic and full-bloom colour. Her beauty team translated that into fearless mouths and glossy ponies.

Collection
The striking beauty look stayed on point with the mesh tanks, cocoon-shaped dresses and cotton shorts in a colour palette inspired by Farhi’s visit to a blossoming Indian garden.

The Breakdown »

By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

Makeup artists and hairstylists drew inspiration from girls hitting the summer music festival circuit with dishevelled, centre-parted strands and slept-in smoky eyes. Dsquared threw its own concert, sending models down the muddy runway with hippie hair that was “Kate Moss at Glastonbury,” explained hairstylist Sam Mc-Knight, while at Alexis Mabille, tiny daisies were tucked into textured hair for a Lilith Fair feel. At Emilio Pucci, makeup artist Lisa Butler’s roughly smudged black liner with hits of copper and gold paid homage to an ’80s Madonna, with a side of gypsy-esque free spirit. And when eyes weren’t rimmed in black, blue was the new black: For Emanuel Ungaro, Charlotte Tilbury gave eyes a wet look by mixing teal and navy with noir and layering gloss on top. Likewise at Rodarte, models wore a smoky eye with a spin; makeup maven James Kaliardos gave lids a navy wash that winked at Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night.

See the backstage beauty »
See our editors’ product picks »

The matte magenta mouths at Prabal Gurung were gorgeous at first glance, but look a little closer, and they were blackened in the center. Since the designer was inspired by Japanese photographer Araki’s shots of exotic blooms (as well as aggressive-looking nudies, we just discovered while Googling him), he asked makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury to create the illusion of “this orchid that was sort of coming out of the lips.” To do that, she used M.A.C. Pro Process Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil to slightly overdraw the lips “like they’ve been kissing,” while MAC Pro Pigments in “Burgundy,” “Fuschia,” and “Black” provided the slightly ombre effect to mimic the flower. Cheekbones were contoured for “slight definition and structure” with cream bronzer. Next, silver grey shadow was stroked across the sockets of the eyes, and Strobe Cream was added on top for a gleam. To create highlights, Luna Cream Color Base was blended in a C shape around the temple and eyes and a lick of mascara and gelled up brows finished the look. On nails, Jin Soon Choi used Sally Hansen’s “Loves Me Not,” a dark purple with subtle glitter, as the main tone “to make a strong statement” edged by “Lacy Lilac” “to show a soft side.”

We connect the dots between the artists and this season’s top trends. Meet the artists behind the season’s biggest beauty messages.

By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

See the top beauty trends for fall »

View by trend: Well Red | Metallic Bond | Extra Lining | Spiked Punch | Blush Hour | Mute Button

View our top products »

Help FASHION celebrate our 10^th annual Reader’s Choice Beauty Awards by telling us which products are your ultimate must-haves. Vote at fashionmagazine.com/beautyawards for a chance to WIN a beauty pack with your top picks!

Beauty editor Lesa Hannah goes backstage at DKNY to talk with makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury and hairstylist Eugene Souleiman.

The post Exclusive video: Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury at DKNY appeared first on FASHION Magazine.