FASHION Magazine
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NYFW diary: Proenza Schouler heads east, Michael Kors goes north, and Marchesa channels Joan of Arc
Nothing like a surefire collection to make stock market bells ring, right? At Michael Kors’ Fall 2012 showing—the first since his company went public in December—he pulled out all the stops to make the registers go ka-ching. The celeb-filled front row, including Jessica Alba, Stacy Keibler, Anjelica Huston, and Debra Messing (and me, in case you were wondering), oohed and ahhed over the heritage-style buffalo-check skirts, overcoats, and capes, the sequined flapper evening gowns, and the ultra-glam layered furs. The designer’s colour of the season, red, was particularly winning on a retro tailored overcoat combo’d with removable fur collar that was elongated to one side. It was that Bay-blanket feel but double the luxe.
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NYFW diary: Back-to-back-to-back with Tory Burch, J.Crew, Vera Wang, Oscar de la Renta, and more!
From the prim to awesomely improper, yesterday at New York fashion week was another dizzying day of back-to-back-to-back shows. Let’s drill it down:
The liner notes at Tory Burch’s show yesterday referenced a proper girl who’s come undone by falling in love with the wrong sort of guy. Well, it might have been wrong for the girl, but on the runway it was very, very right. Self confessed, I’ve never prayed to the Burch alter, but the designer’s beautiful Fall collection might just have me changing my tune. Featuring pencil skirts, lacey dresses in wine, emerald, navy, and dusty rose, and some of the loveliest floral appliques and pearl details on done-up cardigans, the collection entered Carey Mulligan territory.
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5 minutes and 5 news nuggets (New stores! A Manolo Blahnik collab!) with J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons and Tom Mora
Early yesterday at the jam-packed J.Crew Fall presentation, I got a peek at what the mega brand was planning. In and amongst the delicious layered, multicoloured looks, I found out some little newsy nuggets that I’m sure you will be thrilled about:
1. J.Crew will open three new Canadian locations in 2012: Vancouver, Edmonton, and Toronto Eaton Centre, all three of which will carry both womenswear and menswear. There will also be a specialty menswear shop coming down the pipe.
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NYFW diary: Marc Jacobs’ Dickensian trip, paper-bag waists, Jenny Packham’s princess looks, and the Rachel Zoe effect
From a raw start (apparently a one-hour flight has me jetlagged?) to many fantastical shows (read: Marc Jacobs does Eliza Doolittle at the Ice Capades), here’s my countdown of yesterday’s hits:
1. The Kate Middleton factor: Yesterday morning, Kate-favourite Jenny Packham showed 33 shimmering previews of what’s certain to be on the HRH’s back come fall. While most looks were the kind of predictably pretty that we’ve come to expect from the Duchess, this creamy pantsuit is one I’d love to see her try.
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NYFW diary: Rear-view zips at Jeremy Laing, DKNY’s super slick leather, bright bright brights at Thakoon, and Hilfiger does Hermès
The constant rushing between back-to-back shows (and shows, and shows, and shows) can make fashion week feel like somewhat of a big blurry journey. Uptown, then downtown, then—where are we again? Amidst that kind of chaos, it’s nice to switch it up with a few friendly faces, which was the scene at Jeremy Laing’s show yesterday morning. Everyone from photographers Tommy Ton and Jason Hudson, to writers Amy Verner and Sarah Nicole Prickett, to cool kids Eva Michon and Matt Jackson turned out to root for one of the strongest home-team players. Cue his splendidly architectural collection, with its attention to the backside (rear-view zips, backwards button-downs, and capes) and its awesomely fresh denim velvet abstract print interspersed throughout the collection, and you’ve got one helluva brunch replacement (to thankfully be followed by one actual brunch).
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NYFW diary: Heavy lightness at Prabal Gurung, boxy restriction at Alexander Wang, a brush with Bill Cunningham, and Calla’s New York debut!
Day two of the shows began with another early rise, this time for Lacoste’s Fall show at Lincoln Center. The intrinsically sporty brand took an edgy spin for Fall, with designer Christophe Lemaire turning up the zip-age on the collection from the first look—a quilted high-necked vest over a long and oh-so smooth black leather jacket and colour-blocked leggings—to the last—a black leather mini with sleeves that zipped off above to give the appearance of a jacket worn just on the shoulders.
Next was Jill Stuart with a gussied up Nikki Reed and Olivia Palermo in the front row. The designer’s penchant for vintage girliness extended to a ‘60s soundtrack dubbed over models who showed off gold-threaded embroidery on turtleneck dresses, slim trousers, and pleated skirts. Continuing on the blowout spring trend, a peplum showed up mid-show to amp up the au courant.
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NYFW diary: The dispatch from day one including Jason Wu’s updated Mao jacket, Rag & Bone’s granny mishmash, and Suno’s sweet, sweet garden print
It’s that time again! The semi-annual ushering in of awesome new things we can’t afford but want SO badly. The month of running around like a headless chicken in shoes that feel “just okay” but look “so amazing!” And so it began yesterday morning with a ceremonious full-body search at Billy Bishop Airport and a quick Porter jaunt over to New York City (the flight was like a FASHION invasion, with our editor-in-chief Bernadette Morra and features editor Elio Iannacci both coincidentally on board). Arriving with just enough time to plop my stuff down, overdo it with the Elnett, and pop into a cab for Jason Wu, I was off.
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NYFW diary: A flurry of Suno, Jason Wu, Doo.Ri, Costello Tagliapietra, and whizzing ambulances
After a backstage emergency that had ambulances whizzing to the scene (talk about added drama), the Suno show at Milk Studios got underway almost an hour after its scheduled 8 p.m. time slot last night, but the duo’s loyal followers didn’t seem to mind, packing the studio to the rafters. Suno is known for their far-and-away inspirations, and while they had plenty of Rajasthani prints and Asian detailing, the collection on the whole was decidedly more June Cleaver than jet setter, with plenty of peplums, florals, and plaid apron-style smocks paired ironically with menswear-inspired dress shirts. And speaking of peplums, they’re everywhere!