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See the beauty trends from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014 »

As The New York Times’ Cathy Horyn noted in an early dispatch from Paris, “Nobody whines about the circus atmosphere, as they do in New York, or the business-as-usual humdrum of Milan. It’s all fashion here and, so far, it’s all pretty exciting.” The same can be said for the beauty looks that are coming out of the City of Light. And here are five emerging trends for Spring 2014:

To say that punk influenced the fall runways is an understatement; the late-’70s subculture bred from anti-establishment rock ’n’ roll dominated many collections. Aside from the tartan, vinyl, chains and studs, and the faux piercings on just one of the models’ lobes—a page ripped right out of the CBGB style guide—another trend rose from those anarchic ashes: choppy haircuts.

“Punk is an idea that was floating around,” Sam McKnight said backstage at Fendi, where he created haute fox-fur mohawks a few days after engineering a similar long-on-top, short-on-the-sides optical illusion at Clements Ribeiro.

“It might have been something in the air,” says Redken creative consultant Guido Palau of the punk theme, “but it wasn’t planned.” Other influences led him to create short styles at Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Jean Paul Gaultier—not least fashion’s fickle nature. “Designers see girls with long hair, and they get a little despondent. Sometimes they just want that different character, the kind of girl that would cut her hair.” Palau dates the move away from long, luxe locks to January 2013, when he cut over 40 wigs into gamine pixies for Raf Simons’s Spring 2013 Dior Haute Couture show. “Raf really wanted what that brings to an outfit—what that brings to a dress.”

“You’ll have to stretch this into a story,” said makeup artist Dick Page by way of explaining the extremely simple beauty look he created for Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2014. But simple in this case didn’t mean neutral or natural; it meant one big swoop (Page called it a “half-moon”) of bright blue shadow, a blend of Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in “Ice” and a blue powder shadow from Shiseido’s limited edition Eye Color Bar. And that was it: no cheek, no lip, no brow. “She’s lazy or high or both. It’s kind of like, homemade glam.”

The hair also shared that languid, DIY feeling. Guido Palau for Redken gave the models a grungy, but natural look. He used a barrel iron to give super-straight hair a nice bend at the neck and some movement at the ends, and worked in Redken Diamond Oil near the roots to give it a lanky quality. “It’s a little rock and roll, but not in a beachy way, more in a nighttime way. The flatness to the head and off-centeredness are the keys to the look.”

See the Rodarte beauty looks up close »

“Today we’re doing an ‘80s intention,” said hairstylist Odile Gilbert backstage at Rodarte. What that meant was a side part, a hair flip, and lots and lots of mousse. And she added a very Rodarte touch: zebra-print extensions: black-white, black-gold, blonde-black, all hand-painted.

Add some graphic eyeliner and serious contouring, and you’re instantly transported to the Sunset Strip: “The [Rodarte] girls were very inspired, since they grew up there, by L.A. This is a kind of wild LA girl. The real L.A., not the red carpet L.A.,” said Nars artist James Kaliardos. “She has brushed-up brows, and they’re quite wild and animal-like. It’s that feeling of a rock chick from L.A.” Are you getting the sense that the look was inspired by Los Angeles?

See all the Fall 2013 backstage photos of the hair clip trend »

Backstage at the fall shows, we spotted all manner of ways to keep hair off the face and crease-free, from playing cards to pastel hairnets. Bow-and leaf-shaped clips are stylist Guido Palau’s signature, while Bumble and Bumble coiffeurs keep a handy supply of logo’d cards.

MIDDLE PART

SIDE PART

NO PART

What’s in a hair part? A whole lot, according to the Spring 2013 runways. Celia Ellenberg reports.

To part, or not to part? That was the question that many coiffing stars seemed to be asking themselves this season as deep side parts, centre parts and no parts at all gave equally convincing performances on the spring runways. Why all the deliberate differentiation? “When I choose the part for a designer at a show or on a shoot—whether it’s a side or centre part, clean or messy—I always think about the character we’re conveying, the identity of the brand and every other little detail,” says Redken creative consultant Guido Palau.

See the full beauty gallery from Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2013 »

Makeup inspiration at Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2013:
“Marc [Jacobs] wanted to do something very sophisticated and chic. There’s quite demented hair going on, so what I’m doing is very classical. Everyone has their little reference: Someone said it looks like a [Michael] Fassbender woman, someone else said a Guy Bourdin [photograph], but I was thinking more along the lines of Fanny Ardant, the French actress.” – Dick Page, Shiseido artistic director

Get the look:
On the eyes, Page used two cream shadows. He blended a shimmery taupe from the lower lash line up to the crease and brushed it along the lower lash line. He applied black shadow to the upper part of the lid, diffusing the colour. He also used some black mascara and did “a light groom.” And just before the models hit the runway, Page patted one of his favourite products—Shiseido Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment—on lids for a glossy finish. To achieve the “very glossy, wet-looking lip” Page mixed two Shiseido Lacquer Rouge shades: “Sanguine” and “Drama.”

See how the Lanvin Fall 2012 hair and makeup was done »

Alber Elbaz celebrated his 10th anniversary at Lanvin with a collection for Fall 2012 that featured bold colour, feminine silhouettes and loads of embellishment. The Lanvin beauty team—which included hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Pat McGrath—accented the look with thickly lined eyes and soft hair. The result was a strong yet simple look: complexions were clean and glowing, the hair had a subtle bend and mouths were lightly dabbed with lip balm. Pat McGrath made this beauty statement all about the eyes. Inspired by the idea of a pen and ink illustration, she drew an exaggerated black wing that covered the lid and extended out. Read on as we examine the runway look for Lanvin Fall 2012 in full, complete with tips, tricks and the five products you need to try the hair and makeup at home.

Remember when makeup artist Francois Nars created 65 different looks for the Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 show? Well, that didn’t happen this time around at New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 but some designers did decide to deviate from a uniform beauty statement, creating a few different looks for one show. Here’s our rundown of the best double takes from backstage:

Alexander Wang
Though Guido Palau gave every girl at Alexander Wang a tight, low ponytail, the accessory that ran down the centre part differed—a glow-in-the-dark adhesive strip on blondes and a black one for brunettes. The fair-haired set also had a different experience in the makeup chair: Diane Kendal bleached brows and created luminous skin, while their dark-haired counterparts had strong brows and matte skin.

Read on for multiple looks from Anna Sui, Michael Kors and more! »

Ciao, Milano! Now, it’s onto Paris. But before we turn our attention from Piazza Oberdan to the Grand Palais, we wanted to share some of our favourite beauty looks from MFW. Here are five we love.

Minx nails at Missoni
A departure from the nude nails seen on Milan runways last season, these custom-printed Minx nail appliqués were applied over an iridescent base. We’re praying that like Missoni for Target, these beauties make it to the masses, too.

View more Minx! »

We break down the biggest (and most decorative) hair moment on the runways and give you all you need to know for fall.

By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

See the top hair trends for fall »

View by trend: Top Heavy | Bottoms Up | Male Forwarding | Weaving Pattern | Artistic Expression | Special Toppings

View our top hair products »

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Beauty editor Lesa Hannah goes backstage at New York Fashion Week to talk with hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Diane Kendal about the look at Alexander Wang. Watch more backstage beauty videos from New York Fashion Week» Read more of our coverage from the Spring 2011 shows»

The post NYFW backstage video: Guido Palau explains the hair at Alexander Wang appeared first on FASHION Magazine.