FASHION Magazine

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Holt Renfrew kicked off LG Fashion Week with a noisy, crowded bang last night—editors and buyers (and a one Mr. Jay Manuel) got to know each other really, really well, all squished in together on benches in the tents at David Pecaut Square. As is their wont, Holts sent out micro collections from eight of their Canadian best—for whom the question of whether their collections will actually make it to stores has already been settled. The best bits, in order…

The Spring 2012 collections, taking place October 17–21, will mark the 25^th Toronto fashion week. Having previously announced the location of the new venue, the Fashion Design Council of Canada has now released the schedule and details about the week.

While we’re not sure what to expect with the week’s theme of “CanadaCool,” we’re excited about the new venue, David Pecaut Square. With the new venue being downtown, we no longer have to teeter down to the exhibition in four-inch heels.

Each season showcases Canada’s design talent and Spring 2012 is no different, with collections from fashion heavyweights Joeffer Caoc, Pink Tartan, Denis Gagnon, and the new and exciting Amanda Lew Kee and Chloe Comme Parris. This season is also going international with established American designer Cynthia Rowley showing three never-before-seen looks.

With a new name and venue, we hope that the collections from Canadian designers are equally as fresh and thrilling.

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For his Spring 2012 presentation, Montreal’s fetish designer Denis Gagnon switched gears from his usual stoic strut to a playful prance. Creative mise-en-scene by master Dick Walsh in the ultra-luxe environs of Birks jewellery store saw exuberant smiling models whizzing through a rotating doorway and parading before the camera pit before dramatically shimmying up and down the aisles as if searching for a runaway Pomeranian. All the while, a vintage French soundtrack added a retro feel to the “Marlene Dietrich meets Laura Ashley” look. One model looked ready for a game of tennis in her white sneakers and strapless drop-waisted silk jumper that was belted just above the chest—tennis, that is, in Gagnon’s universe. Despite the show’s Holly Golightly-like optimism, Gagnon’s cutesy floral separates never strayed too from his familiar avant-garde vibe, which surfaced here and there in black and white dominatrix detailing. After the gender-bending finale where the bride and groom shared a sweet kiss, nobody argued that 11 a.m. was too early for Champagne!

The anticipation for Denis Gagnon was palpable and sneaking early into the show’s venue, the Birks store in downtown Montreal, was my breaking point. High Versaille-esque ceilings and rows of glass-encased jewels persisted knowledge that Monsieur Gagnon’s show was the one to see. The Birks staff kitchen upstairs doubled as the show’s hair and makeup studio but, moments after I stepped off the freight elevator, stylist Denis Binet said to me, “Hair is natural, it’s nothing”. His idea of nothing really meant perfectly placed hair-ties and carefree fly-aways that looked more careful to me. Final touches of rich merlot-red lips were applied to a dozen or so youthful models, who all wore clean dewy faces and a nonappearance of mascara and blush. By blending an orange-red and a blue-red together, Amelie Ducharme improvised deeply seductive lips against otherwise virginal features and rivalled the aristocracy of the adornments downstairs.

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As we reported back in early June, Mercedes-Benz and IMG have introduced Start Up, their internationally lauded joint competition and mentorship program for up-and-coming designers to Canada. Well, here we go!

Early Wednesday, the first Start Up step was put into place, as I—along with a slew of notables including designer Marie Saint Pierre and FDCC president Robin Kay—judged the Montreal semi-final applicants. As a fan and avid supporter of Canadian fashion, I was thrilled to be a guest judge. Especially since FASHION Magazine is the official magazine sponsor!

The lineup for the outdoor extravaganza Festival Mode & Design Montreal, starting today and running through August 6th, is sure to be a circus of amazing events. And while tonight’s big fashion buzz surrounds Jean Paul Gaultier‘s ready-to-wear show, I’m also in a tizzy over all the local talent.

To really discover the backbone of Montreal street style, here are my five must-see shows that highlight local talent.

1. Montreal Fashion Week highlights
August 3 at 9 p.m.

In case you missed Semaine de la Mode last February, you can see all the fall and winter 2011/12 looks on one stage–and then go shop their looks, which should all be in-store by now. The models are some of Quebec’s most beloved stars, including Francisco Randez, who is the face of JPG’s fragrance, Le Male. Look for my coups de coeur: the sexy femme style of Barilà, avant-garde Denis Gagnon, glittery baubles by Micalla, and Mulcair’s tailored tomboy chic. Also part of the show is the dress by Kwantlen University student Earl Mabaquiao that won the Télio contest. I had the honour of wearing his dress to a posh event this past spring. (Thank you, Earl!)

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They’re here! They’re here! Well… almost. The royal couple will be in the land we call home in t-minus four hours, and we can barely contain our excitement to see what Kate’s wearing when she steps of the plane. Will she fly our flag or hers? We’re dying to find out. To help you kill the next few hours of anticipation, we’ve compiled a detailed list of Brit and Canadian designers we think Kate should wear at the occasions she’s slotted into her schedule over the next eight days. If we’re right, we’ll be treating you all to crumpets.

View the styled itinerary now! »

The unique style of designer Renata Morales has earned her props from art-loving fashion circles, including Grammy-winning Canadian band Arcade Fire. Here, she shares her favourite shops and the story behind Denis Gagnon’s infamous eyewear.

You’ve moved from prêt-à-porter to designing exclusively for private clients?
“That’s what I enjoy doing. It’s more elaborate stuff, where all the work is really ornate. I’ve also done costumes for [Oscar-nominated film director] Denis Villeneuve’s short, Next Floor.”

How cool is it working with Arcade Fire?
“I work with them because we’re friends. It’s not costume-oriented, except those Tron suits they wore on SNL.”

Watch as fashion designer Denis Gagnon debuts his sophisticated approach to Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland while costume designer Bob Crowley talks inspiration for The National Ballet of Canada’s latest production.

The post Alice on fire: Watch our video on Luminato’s twofold ode to the classic character appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

By Allyssia Alleyne

From June 10 to 19, Toronto will again be a mecca of arts and ideas as the annual creative festival Luminato takes over the town. While this event boasts a chock-full schedule of spellbinding events, we’ve highlighted some of our favourites. For a full list of events, visit luminato.com.

Garden of Roses: Denis Gagnon Interprets Alice
It seems fitting that Lancôme and Luminato would choose Canada’s favourite bespectacled son to design an Alice in Wonderland–inspired dress for its annual fashion exhibit. Who else but a master of colour, proportion and the unexpected could take on a girl who sips tea with a hatter and plays croquet with a queen?
At Winter Garden Lobby (June 10 to 19, 225 King St. W., FREE)

From the opening of his new boutique to his upcoming collaborations, it seems that Montreal titan Denis Gagnon (along with his signature thick black Lanvin frames) is just about everywhere these days. “You certainly are a man with vision, just how strong are those glasses anyway?” I asked him last week at the opening party for his new boutique in Old Montreal. Be it modesty or my seriously awful French, Gagnon just shrugged.