FASHION Magazine

BLING

One of the biggest thing we saw in almost every collection was the use of embellishments. Collections got more impressive as the week progressed as designers seem to follow the same philosophy when it came to bling–go big or go home. Models at Prada came equipped with bedazzled bras that were shown over-top their looks (some sewn right into the garment). Roberto Cavalli’s uber-embellished collection looked somewhat influenced by The Great Gatsby but he still managed to maintain the underlying boho vibe he’s so well known for to produce (what we think) was one of his best collections yet. Aquilano.Rimondi and Marni both used similar 3D intricacies as Prada but in a way that was unique to their individual aesthetic. At Pucci, the pieces got progressively heavier and even embodied Balmain-esque bedazzlement while Fausto Puglisi fully embellished some pieces entirely on one side while the other side remained entirely clean.

Prada Spring 2014

BLING

Aquilano Rimondi Spring 2014

LOOSE SILHOUETTES

We have seen fashion really transform over the last few season as women’s collections are taking on a whole new form. Silhouettes are looser, flat shoes are cool again and boxiness has replaced form fit. Even designers who are traditionally known to be sexy (here’s looking at you, Versace) have realized that fashion, at least for right now, has evolved into something more relaxed. It definitely doesn’t mean that they have taken out this word from the equation; in fact the Italians seemed to have perfected the balance of masculine and feminine with the latter still being the hero. Bare midriffs and tops with clever cut-outs were often paired with straight skirts or high waisted pants and boxy leather jackets. Pant silhouettes, when present, were structured yet slouchy and most often cropped while some designers opted to skip pants altogether and focus on predominantly skirts and dresses (Miuccia being one of them); even crop tops were structured and loose. Whether the male population likes it or not, women’s fashion has now taken on a boyish charm and the term feminine has defined itself in a new, more modern way.

Versace Spring 2014

LOOSE SILHOUETTES

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2014

THE UN-PRETTY SHOE

Though heels are still present on the runway, footwear has evolved with the new direction that fashion has taken in the last few seasons. Shoes are oddly quirky, slightly heavy and seemingly masculine and nowhere was this more obvious than in Milan this past week. At Prada, the shoes were almost reminiscent of a suped up Birkenstock while Marni’s layered flip flop looked Asian inspired. Jil Sander had more of a chunky, rounded Oxford and even Emporio Armani went for a masculine flat. Although each designer’s footwear varied from one collection to the next, they all cleverly complemented each collection in their own way.

Jil Sander Spring 2014

THE UN-PRETTY SHOE

Prada Spring 2014

BOLD HUES

As always, spring runways are full of light and bright colours and this season is no exception. Several of the Italian designers are playing up the punch by injecting colour in a bold way. Fendi kicked off its show with punchy laser cut tiered dresses (five of which were beautifully sketched in colour by Karl himself and distributed to each seat) while Max Mara chose to punch up a mainly neutral collection with a lineup of lollipop-coloured looks-solid from head to toe. Prada is in a level by itself this season and Miuccia gave a face to her collection (literally) by splashing color into every piece right down to the socks. Aquilano.Rimondi also intelligently used embellishments and bold prints to inject color into the collection.

BOLD HUES

Max Mara Spring 2014

Black and white

On the flip side, many of the Milan collections still had a predominant black and white colour palette. Costume National, Jil Sander, Ports and Marni all had a strong base of black and white pieces so those of us who opt to gravitate towards more basic, minimal colours have nothing to be worried about.

Blue moon

Pale pink continues as a favourite for Spring 2014 with even the typically-strict strict Jean Pierre Bragaza dipping a toe into girl territory, though blue seemed most popular in varying shades—baby at Preen, denim at Holly Fulton, cobalt at David Koma and Topshop in all of the above.

Flora and fauna

Forget Miranda Priestley, designers are going full steam ahead with florals and nature-inspired prints for Spring 2014. At Mulberry, Emma Hill went out with bang-on floral-woven jacquard short suits and floral-appliqued signature tote bags for her last collection as the brand’s creative director. At Matthew Williamson, pink and yellow appliques found themselves on sixties-styled cocktail dresses while butterfly prints made their way down a swishy wideleg pant.

Sheer window

Nip slips seem the thing for Spring 2014. At J.W Anderson, pinched and pleated gauze-like nylon (or was it nylon?) gave way to his frothier side, ofttimes exposing skin whole.

Trapeze

This sixties favourite has been revved up for spring by London’s feminine set. Emilia Wickstead showed long billowing versions of the style in striking bright combos. Temperley’s two-piece version of the style layered magentas in varying brightness over one another.

Slip dresses

The nineties focus has ushered the slip dress back into our consciousness so forcefully that I can barely remember a time when it wasn’t. Topshop Unique’s considerably pared back spring featured two versions of the trend: cropped boho and ankle-grazing print-mixed silk. Under cool girl silk layers, Jonathan Saunders went tie-dye-like with green and blue on a striking peachy number.

CROP TOPS

A couple days into New York Fashion Week, we were pretty sure crop tops were trending for spring, and now that we’re more than halfway through the week, well let’s just say it would almost be easier to list the shows that didn’t cop a crop on the runway this season. We continued to see model midriff everywhere from Tibi, Tommy Hilfiger and Prabal Gurung for ICB to Vera Wang, Narciso Rodriguez and Rodarte. Just to name a few!

Rodarte Spring 2014

CROP TOPS

Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2014

LIQUID METALLICS

The metallics trend comes back every year but this season the approach is less edgy futuristic, more silky, sheeny and sophisticated. Gold and silver lamé skirts at Altuzzara dressed up body hugging henleys, and a shiny lace print skirt and jacket look was pure uptown elegance at Tory Burch. Meanwhile, a psychedelic oil-slick effect upped the interest on a shiny metallic coat at Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2014

LIQUID METALLICS

Atuzarra Spring 2014

DAY GLOW BRIGHTS

J Crew Spring 2014

DAY GLOW BRIGHTS

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2014

DAY GLOW BRIGHTS

Vivid pastels and chalky brights are lighting up the runways for spring. DKNY showed outfits in highlighter hues of pink, yellow and turquoise, Jeremy Laing took inspiration from sidewalk chalk for his collection of Malibu-ready looks, and Prabal Gurung and Oscar de la Renta pumped up the volume on pastels for posh eveningwear. Even J.Crew and Calla got into the act with surf-inspired, California brights.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2014

ATHLETE’S WORLD

Sport luxe has been in the air for the past couple of seasons but with so many designers embracing the athletic look, consider Spring 2014 it’s official coming out party. At DKNY windbreakers, racer tanks and track pants raced down the runway, while VPL went all the way active with running tights, technical t-shirts and workout gear constructed from water-repellant wicking fabrics. Even Vera Wang dabbled in sport chic with crop tops, technical mesh and zip-up track jackets.

Vera Wang Spring 2014

ATHLETE’S WORLD

DKNY Spring 2014

:ASER TAG

From sheer materials and mesh fabrics to open weave sweaters and frosty latex layers, designers are hinting suggestively at skin for spring. At the intricate end of the spectrum, laser cut details gave designers another more embellished way of exploring the idea. Tory Burch layered lattice-cut leathers over spring knits, Alexander Wang lasered his own name onto everything from pleated skirts and dresses to jackets and gloves, and Threeasfour laser-cut complex geometrical shapes into layered silks to create a 3D effect.

Tory Burch Spring 2014