FASHION Magazine

In the world of ready-to-wear fashion, Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte could almost un-exaggeratedly be referred to as gods among designers. Artists. Outsiders. The real deal. Since their label’s launch in 2004, the sisters, 32 and 33 respectively, have been quite solidly staying a cut above the rest with their wise-beyond-their-years artistic references, their ability to seamlessly merge fashion and art and their knack for creating wearable masterpiece after wearable masterpiece with not a fashion degree between them. Between their Van Gogh–inspired spring collection, their somewhat controversial Australian Outback fall outing and their current collaboration with the L.A. Philharmonic, the designers hit Toronto earlier this week for a fête in their honour at The Room at the Bay. We were lucky enough to be let into their world for a little while.

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Last night, the sister duo behind one of fashion’s darling labels, Rodarte, descended upon Toronto for a fête in their honour at the Bay’s glittering designer den, The Room. As the finest champagne flowed, the city’s finest, freshly sunned partygoers crowded around Laura and Kate Mulleavy to get a look—albeit a look-but-don’t-touch. “You can’t just sidle up beside them and say, ‘I love you,’” one guest lamented. And isn’t it strange but true? The moment one of your idols is presented on a platter, the nerves tend to overcome. Such wasn’t the case, however, for Toronto’s version of the sister power duo, Chloé and Parris Gordon of Chloé Comme Parris, who got in there to articulate their crush. (I was afforded a private one-on-two with the designers earlier in the day, the gush-laden results of which are forthcoming).

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Rodarte’s Spring 2012 collection had two magical muses: Van Gogh’s iconic work Starry Night and Disney’s Sleeping Beauty, and the opaque navy blue smoky eyes echoed the rich colours found in both. To balance the dramatic feel of the collection, Nars makeup artist James Kaliardos painted eyeshadow all the way up to the brow bone. While this certainly made a statement on the runway, it’s a bit too Maleficent-esque for day-to-day. With a few minor adjustments, however, this look is perfect for a night when you want to sparkle.

Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night served as the reference for Rodarte’s runway look for spring. The midnight-blue smoky eyes were complemented by smooth waves with a youthful twist. We break it down step by step for you.

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It seems like whenever the Mulleavy sisters seek inspiration from other countries, a little bit of controversy is sure to follow. Two years ago there was backlash against the name of a nail polish from Rodarte’s Mexico-inspired collaboration with M.A.C Cosmetics, and this week the brand is under fire for using sacred Aboriginal prints.

What felt like a week-long whirlwind at the time (and realistically, actually was!) has now come to a close. From wind-tunnel hair to blue cat eyes, a Harper Beckham cameo, and one awesome T-shirt, here’s our top 10 backstage moments from New York Fashion Week.

Let’s count ’em down! »

If this post is any indication, there can really be no cap on how many beautiful people go into one post. From the breathtaking photo of Lindsey Wixson above, to the black and white still of Arizona Muse, to the always beautiful Euro gals Ulyana Sergeenko and Giovanna Battaglia, you’ve certainly got your fill today!

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By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

Makeup artists and hairstylists drew inspiration from girls hitting the summer music festival circuit with dishevelled, centre-parted strands and slept-in smoky eyes. Dsquared threw its own concert, sending models down the muddy runway with hippie hair that was “Kate Moss at Glastonbury,” explained hairstylist Sam Mc-Knight, while at Alexis Mabille, tiny daisies were tucked into textured hair for a Lilith Fair feel. At Emilio Pucci, makeup artist Lisa Butler’s roughly smudged black liner with hits of copper and gold paid homage to an ’80s Madonna, with a side of gypsy-esque free spirit. And when eyes weren’t rimmed in black, blue was the new black: For Emanuel Ungaro, Charlotte Tilbury gave eyes a wet look by mixing teal and navy with noir and layering gloss on top. Likewise at Rodarte, models wore a smoky eye with a spin; makeup maven James Kaliardos gave lids a navy wash that winked at Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night.

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Industry darling Joseph Altuzarra was named the 2011 recipient of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award for emerging talent last night in New York. Altuzarra, known for his complex seaming and fitted pants, won a $300,000 cash prize and a mentorship program from the CFDA’s Business Advisory Committee including Anna Wintour and CFDA president Diane Von Furstenberg. Macabre jeweler Pamela Love and newcomers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters of Creatures of the Wind both won runner up prizes of $100,000 each.

Meanwhile, on the red carpet, the bright young things were out in full American-made force, decked out in everything from fellow nominees Cushnie et Ochs and Suno to the event’s title speaker Calvin Klein. Oh, and Jenna Lyons was there too. (“Nothing to see here, folks!”)

So, who wore it best? Vote for your favourite after the jump! »
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Makeup artist James Kaliardos was given strict orders by the Mulleavy sisters backstage at Rodarte, with Vincent Van Gogh’s painting  Starry Night as the point of inspiration. “The girls really wanted this dark, dark intense eye,” he said. Beginning with Nars’ Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil (launching in the spring) and creating a circular shape, he then layered it with eyeshadow in “Night Flight,” a dense midnight blue with a sheen, and for additional sparkle, shadow in “Tropic” on top. “A smoky edge is important,” he said. “It makes [the look] softer and not so hard and theatrical.” To keep the eyes looking big, Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in “Rue Bonaparte” was drawn on the waterlines. Cream Blush in “Penny Lane” enhanced cheeks as well as lips, which also received a helping of lipgloss in “Nana,” a purple-y pink hue. Working with the same reference, manicurist Deborah Lippmann used “Lady Sings the Blues,” a glittery navy, on short, rounded nails. “But they wanted it to feel really like a starry night so we’ve added tons of extra large particles of glitter,” she revealed.

By Sarah Casselman and Susie Sheffman

From swinging ’60s to cowgirl chic, the hot looks
and perfect pieces you need for fall.

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From the upcoming Versace for H&M collaboration to Danier’s ongoing Canadian-on-Canadian capsule collections with the likes of Mark Fast, Greta Constantine and FASHION contributor George Antonopoulos, high-low team ups are continuing to bring luxury designs to the masses. We haven’t had enough. In fact, we vote for more! Here are four mega-designers and Canadian stores that we think should get together and jump on the bandwagon post-haste.

Here are the 4 team ups we’re dreaming of »