FASHION Magazine

See the backstage beauty photos from Pink Tartan Spring 2014 »

The Pink Tartan Spring 2014 show was underscored by a single Andy Warhol quote: “I had a lot of dates but decided to stay home and dye my eyebrows.” It provided obvious beauty inspiration, which Maybelline New York lead makeup artist Grace Lee translated as vertically upswept, full brows filled in with Master Brow pencil ($10, well.ca), brushed upwards and set with clear Great Lash mascara ($8, well.ca)—a fresh interpretation of show muse Edie Sedgwick’s strongly defined arches. ”We want them to look very groomed and bushy,” said Lee. She defined the lashline with Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner ($10, well.ca) but skipped the obvious ‘60s wing, instead using the new Volum’Express Smoky Eyes mascara ($9, well.ca) to achieve fat ‘60s lashes with a matte finish. “Picture Edie Sedgwick before she goes out.”

Who has better style than those who help you look your best from day to day? In theory, no one should. Hairstylists have long since had their own thing going on and we sought out to prove it by quizzing five of Toronto’s most stylish on their tricks of the trade, favourite hair styles and keeping it together from day to day.

To say that punk influenced the fall runways is an understatement; the late-’70s subculture bred from anti-establishment rock ’n’ roll dominated many collections. Aside from the tartan, vinyl, chains and studs, and the faux piercings on just one of the models’ lobes—a page ripped right out of the CBGB style guide—another trend rose from those anarchic ashes: choppy haircuts.

“Punk is an idea that was floating around,” Sam McKnight said backstage at Fendi, where he created haute fox-fur mohawks a few days after engineering a similar long-on-top, short-on-the-sides optical illusion at Clements Ribeiro.

“It might have been something in the air,” says Redken creative consultant Guido Palau of the punk theme, “but it wasn’t planned.” Other influences led him to create short styles at Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Jean Paul Gaultier—not least fashion’s fickle nature. “Designers see girls with long hair, and they get a little despondent. Sometimes they just want that different character, the kind of girl that would cut her hair.” Palau dates the move away from long, luxe locks to January 2013, when he cut over 40 wigs into gamine pixies for Raf Simons’s Spring 2013 Dior Haute Couture show. “Raf really wanted what that brings to an outfit—what that brings to a dress.”

“You’ll have to stretch this into a story,” said makeup artist Dick Page by way of explaining the extremely simple beauty look he created for Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2014. But simple in this case didn’t mean neutral or natural; it meant one big swoop (Page called it a “half-moon”) of bright blue shadow, a blend of Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in “Ice” and a blue powder shadow from Shiseido’s limited edition Eye Color Bar. And that was it: no cheek, no lip, no brow. “She’s lazy or high or both. It’s kind of like, homemade glam.”

The hair also shared that languid, DIY feeling. Guido Palau for Redken gave the models a grungy, but natural look. He used a barrel iron to give super-straight hair a nice bend at the neck and some movement at the ends, and worked in Redken Diamond Oil near the roots to give it a lanky quality. “It’s a little rock and roll, but not in a beachy way, more in a nighttime way. The flatness to the head and off-centeredness are the keys to the look.”

See the full backstage gallery from Joe Fresh Fall 2013 »

There’s always been a pretty predictable pattern to the beauty for Joe Fresh: clean faces, rosy cheeks, a poppy lip and straight, simple hair—usually pulled back into a low ponytail. It’s a beauty routine that plays into the mass appeal of the brand, while also literally playing into the “Fresh” part of the Joe Fresh name.

For Fall 2013, however, the beauty was dictated by that other thing Joe Fresh is known for: being right-to-the-minute on-trend. As such, the cute ponytails were kicked to the curb in favour of punk-inspired cropped cuts. After all, with Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton covering up models’ hair with dark brown wigs and brands like Dior, Chanel and Givenchy all embracing short hair this season, it really is the time to cut it all off.

See the full backstage gallery from Chloé Comme Parris Fall 2013 »

The makeup: “It’s about society girls gone bad. Rich girls who’ve been partying all night long and their makeup’s been really worn in and lived in and danced in.” —Grace Lee, Maybelline New York lead makeup artist

Skin was evened out with a mixture of Maybelline Dream Fresh BB Cream and moisturizer. For a dewy, “sweaty” highlight, clear Baby Lips lip balm was rubbed on the high plains of the cheek and the bridge of the nose.

Eyes were lined with a black kohl pencil, then more Baby Lips was pressed right into the liner with a thin brush, to give the effect of a girl who’s been in her makeup all night long. Soon-to-launch pots of Maybelline pigments in “Luxurious Bronze” and “Cashmere Brown” were applied on the lids, with more Baby Lips pressed on top. “It’s all about layering,” said Lee. She had models close their eyes while she held the lids open slightly with her finger so she could apply Rocket Mascara thickly to the top and bottom lashes at the same time, which gave an imperfect look, with smudges left below the eyes. “I want them to look a little bit messy, a little bit off. “ Brows were brushed up but left natural, because “it’s all about the screwed-up eye.”

See the full beauty gallery from Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2013 »

Makeup inspiration at Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2013:
“Marc [Jacobs] wanted to do something very sophisticated and chic. There’s quite demented hair going on, so what I’m doing is very classical. Everyone has their little reference: Someone said it looks like a [Michael] Fassbender woman, someone else said a Guy Bourdin [photograph], but I was thinking more along the lines of Fanny Ardant, the French actress.” – Dick Page, Shiseido artistic director

Get the look:
On the eyes, Page used two cream shadows. He blended a shimmery taupe from the lower lash line up to the crease and brushed it along the lower lash line. He applied black shadow to the upper part of the lid, diffusing the colour. He also used some black mascara and did “a light groom.” And just before the models hit the runway, Page patted one of his favourite products—Shiseido Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment—on lids for a glossy finish. To achieve the “very glossy, wet-looking lip” Page mixed two Shiseido Lacquer Rouge shades: “Sanguine” and “Drama.”

The results are in! You voted and we listened: From perfume and mascara to sunscreen and shampoo, we reveal the beauty products you voted top of the vanity in our 11th Annual Readers’ Choice Beauty Awards. This year more than 65 products make the cut across six categories, including nails, fragrance, makeup and hair. And as always, the Readers’ Choice Beauty Awards rewards products in a range of prices, allowing you to find favourite new products regardless of budget. Ready to see who made the cut? Pick a category below or read on to browse all the winners.

See the full backstage beauty gallery from Joe Fresh Spring 2013 »

The look:
Grace Lee, Maybelline New York’s lead makeup artist: “Joe Fresh is known for that really fresh colour. [Joe Mimran] told me that because there’s a lot of whites and metallics for spring he wanted to do a poppy colour. [The lipstick] is petty much that perfect, perfect coral.”

Jorge Joao, Redken lead stylist: “We created a low ponytail and released some of the slack to have it droop a little bit, to give it a vintage feel. And from there we added a little bit of texture on the side, to make it more ‘now’ and to give it something fresh and urban.”

Top tips:
– The Joe Fresh Spring 2013 look takes the matte lip to the next level. With direction to make it look “like the girls had been in their lipstick all day long,” Grace Lee brushed translucent powder around the lip line after applying Maybelline Color Sensational Vivids lipstick in “Vibrant Mandarin,” which helped to diffuse the colour and give it that worn-in look. “We wanted to make it look almost like chalk,” she explained.

View the full backstage gallery from Pink Tartan Spring 2013 »

The inspiration:
Grace Lee, Maybelline New York’s lead makeup artist: “We did a statement lip last season, it was all about that oxblood red lip, so [Kim Newport-Mimran] wanted to do the opposite. They look über, über fresh. Nothing about this makeup is about strong features… it’s super sheer, super pretty, super fresh.”

Jorge Joao, Redken lead stylist: “It’s playful, something out of the ’60s—like how a little girl would want to push her hair out of the way. [The hair has] natural texture and an aggressive side sweep with the pin holding it into place.”

Top tips:
– The key to dewy skin is moisturizer—and lots of it! “It’s almost like she’s marinating in it!” said Grace Lee of just how much she applied to Charlotte Free, Maybelline New York’s international spokesmodel. Lee also used Maybelline Dream Fresh BB Cream in place of foundation to add further glow and hydration.

By Lesa Hannah and Sarah Daniel

Our Fall/Winter 2012 beauty trend report covers the makeup, manicures and hairstyles you need to know, paired with the best new products. From the moody colours of Dark Shadows to Wild Side’s super saturated shades and groomed ponytails, we have all of fall’s top looks in one spectacular slideshow. Time to start browsing!

See all the beauty trends for fall »

JUMP TO A TREND: DARK SHADOWS | THIN EVIDENCE | FRENCH TIPS | BROW CONTINUUM | CHARACTER SKETCH | AIR FORCE | THE WILD SIDE | MATCHY MATCH | BANDS & BANGS

As we approach September 6, three of the country’s top metropolises are prepping for Canada’s first-ever Fashion’s Night Out, a veritable fashion fiesta that began with Vogue and CFDA’s first FNO in New York City in 2009. The one-night, after-hours festivities celebrating everything fashion will see exciting events taking place in Vancouver, Montreal and Toronto. […]

The post Full Frontal FNO: Our complete (and constantly updated) guide to what’s going down in Toronto, Vancouver and Montreal on Canada’s first Fashion’s Night Out appeared first on FASHION Magazine.